somethings not right here

Heating / Cooling / AC

  1. trudysduster

    trudysduster Well-Known Member

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    Why do you even bother writing this. Are you some kind of kid. Don't waste your time posting on my posts. I already figured it out. And by the way, my car runs. It runs fine. It just happens to have a problem that is being fixed. Does your car ever have a problem. probably not. So go bother someone else. I am not interested in you childish remarks.
     
  2. trudysduster

    trudysduster Well-Known Member

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    seems like somethin is backwards. Should run cooler on the highway unless it isn't getting the air. funny how different cars do different things. I am hoping that what I am about to do will cure this problem.
     
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    • 69_340_GTS

      69_340_GTS Well-Known Member

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      Some rules of thumb about shrouds:
      Around 1" clearance shroud I.D. to fan O.D., around 1" clearance radiator to face of fan. Too close or too far away is not good. Fan should be 1/2 in, and 1/2 out, of the shroud. Shroud needs to be sealed to the radiator (insulation weatherstripping works pretty well). Here is a decent article: Flex-a-Lite Automotive The Perfect Fan Shroud Position / Flex-a-lite Blog
       
    • AJ/FormS

      AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s FABO Gold Member

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      My experience has me believing that the cooling system has the easiest time keeping up at between 30 and maybe 45 mph. This is the speed zone where ram air is working, and the engine is not working hard, and the rpm is low.
      As the car gains speed, the rpm is continually rising and so is the load. Wind resistance increases as the square of the speed. So doubling your speed from 30 to 60, requires four times the power, not to get there, but just to maintain that new speed. So going faster requires more power, and the transmission demands more rpm, and so more heat is being created, the faster you go.
      At idle and stopped, is when the cooling system has the hardest time. It's all fan, so it better be able to do the job. This is why the shroud is so important.
      But IMO, the factory 5 and 7-bladers have some pretty unique features. Those little wing-tips play a very important role.
       
      Last edited: Sep 18, 2017
    • trudysduster

      trudysduster Well-Known Member

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      I put this car back together last night. Replaced water pump with an 8 blade high volume pump. replaced the thermostat with a high volume 180* Milodon thermostat. Started it up this morning and ran it in the driveway for 30-40 minutes, just like before. Before the temp stayed at 190*. This morning it never ran over 180*. Here is the pic to show it. Now to be fair, I am going to drive this the same route this morning on the way up to the bowling alley and go through the same drive thru and see what it does. Only difference is that it is going to be 10* hotter outside than it was the last time. We will see if a high volume pump and thermostat makes a difference. You guys can decide for yourself. I have a 16" pusher fan coming in on Monday and I think I am going to install that also just as a precaution.

      DSC00237.JPG

      DSC00241.JPG

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      DSC00243.JPG
       
    • rustycowll69

      rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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      the factory shroud doesn't fit the aftermarket radiator very well, not a huge surprise. I agree with poster who says don't fix what ain't broken. If there isn't a cooling issue, I wouldn't worry about it. You can look for a better fitting shroud over the winter.
       
    • retroron

      retroron FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      For what it's worth, it is a bad idea to run both a pusher and and a puller fan. The pusher air flow wise degrades the ability of the puller fan to pull.
       
    • famous bob

      famous bob mopar misfit

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      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
      It doesn`t on mine, I have it mounted as far from the radiator as possible, on the pass side of the rad, set to come on at 200, comes on when the termp outside is in the 90`s . When in the driveway ideling, w/ the hood off, u can feel the extra air it pushes , helping the mech. belt driven fan. 505" wedge-aprox. 700 h.p. in a 68 fastback. I also have an aux. trans cooler on the drivers side, mounted the same way. 28x19 , 1 1/4 tube crossflow alum. rad.
       
    • trudysduster

      trudysduster Well-Known Member

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      you aren't going to find a better fitting shroud with this radiator. The mounting tabs on the sides are extended about 3/4". I am going to put weather strip in there to bridge the gap.
       
    • TrailBeast

      TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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      Yea, yea, what I want to know is, are you going to order the same thing in the drive through?:lol:
       
    • trudysduster

      trudysduster Well-Known Member

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      Matter of fact Greg I did. It took a little longer than it did the last time. A little longer line and it also brought the temp up higher than last time. Last time it went to 215*, this time it climbed to 230*. I was hoping the damn thing would blow up and then I could find a /6 to put back in it. These big HP engines are not really designed for traffic and sitting. Left there and got caught behind the school buses, got caught in an accident on one of the highways. I thought I would never get back home. My fan will be in Monday. will see what that does. lol
       
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      • TrailBeast

        TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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        It sure does sound like the electric might be your solution there, but it also seems that radiator just isn't up to that motor.
         
      • Daves69

        Daves69 Well-Known Member

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        Well damn, that sucks.

        An FYI, the MP aluminum water pump is an eight vein, 4" diameter. Same as the one you put in, right? Now I'm wondering if it will do the same on a 26" with dual electric fans.

        MPwaterpump1.jpg MPwaterpump2.jpg
         
      • trudysduster

        trudysduster Well-Known Member

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        I don't know if the radiator is up to it either. It is a Champion MC526 radiator. Mfg. says it will cool up to 450 HP. They didn't say that cool meant to be in traffic though. It does fine unless I run it and then idle for a period of time. It is the biggest radiator I can put in it because of the core support. It is the same size I had in it for 17 years before I stuck this in earlier this year. Now if I wanted to cut out the core support wider and do away with the overflow bottle I could probably go to a 26" radiator but I am not even sure that would cool it down so I am thinking when this 16" pusher goes in this week, it will tell the tale.
         
      • trudysduster

        trudysduster Well-Known Member

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        I surely hope so. When I left out on the trip up to the bowling alley on a rural hwy the temp never got above 170*. I was running about 55MPH. Seems funny with a 180* thermostat but it didn't get over 170*. When I got in the town and hit traffic and then hit the drive thru, that is when it climbed. So If I can shoot 3000CFM through it when I am sitting still, it may work.
         
      • famous bob

        famous bob mopar misfit

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        I didn`t go back and look, but the first pic looked like the fan was on backward to me, the second pic looked right. If u have the same width between the frame rails, and u should, u could go to an alum. crossflow 28x 19 . w/ 1 1/4" or 1 1/2 '' tubes. I wish I`d gone w/ 1 1/2" on mine, instead of 1 1/4' . I couldn`t get a 16" elec fan in front , and had to go to a 15", and put it and the trans cooler as far away from the rad.as I could so not to impede air flow any more than necessary. I even put hood vents in because of underhood heat. MY raised port heads put the headers way up to where it even melts the valvecover gaskets. I might gain a little by cutting the cradle out to be open in front of the side tanks, but haven`t needed to so far. " If anyone needs a new 3000 cfm chrome elec fan , I have one."-----------hope this helps, cooling big h.p. is a lot harder in these little engine bays.
         
      • pauly v.100

        pauly v.100 Well-Known Member

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        A 26" rad would almost certainly help, cooling a big block w/a 22 incher is a big ask. It was previously suggested you should try to find a shroud that will fit, the existing one isn't helping you at all. If you're already wired for a pusher fan, whats keeping you from ditching the factory clutch fan and going electric?
        I didn't have much space between water pump snout and rad., so I got a dual 11" puller the clear the w/p, it fits the 22" Champion like it was made for it.
        Spal #2052 fan, 22" Champion, 360/380 Magnum crate.

        IMAG0892.jpg
         
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        • famous bob

          famous bob mopar misfit

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          this setup looks neat, and might work for u, but w/ a bigblock and a lot more h.p. it won`t work. (to the OP), the holes in the water pump on my alum. water pump housing were a little smaller than a stock iron one, I enlarged them.
           
        • oldkimmer

          oldkimmer FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Put in a 195 t-stat and ur problem will go away. I run a factory 26 in 2 core rad in my duster race car. The block is filled to the top of the core plugs. Even on back to back to back runs in 90*plus heat it never gets over 205 degrees. No shroud , but factory de clutching fan from my old 70 340 swinger. Motor is a 470 stroker with over 600 hp car runs 10.40s.
           
          Last edited: Oct 8, 2017
        • 67Dart273

          67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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          Bill don't beat yourself up, remember this: There IS (was) a way. Many of us had BB/ RB cars "back then" and THEY didn't overheat. My V code 70 RR was a sixpack, later had a Sig Erson in it and IT did not overheat in San Diego/ LA traffic.

          The other thing is "is it puking water?" If not you might be "over worrying" a bit
           
        • 4spdragtop

          4spdragtop FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Ive always wondered what a safe operating temperature is?? Water boils at 212*. With 50/50 mix, I think it raises the boiling point to 260 (ish)*
          But what is a safe operating temp?
           
        • Tooljunkie

          Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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          Safe operating temp is the last degree before it boils over.

          Did a 350 in a vette this spring,230 before fans ran. Factory setting. Cooling system pressure raises boiling point also.
           
        • trudysduster

          trudysduster Well-Known Member

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          Del, it isn't puking water. I installed the pusher fan. Took this down to Cruising the Coast along with the Rat Rod and the Valiant. We got in traffic a couple of times. I hooked the pusher fan up on a toggle switch and running down the road with the fan off it ran 180* or below. When I did get in traffic I immediately flipped the fan on and the temp never ran over 190*. And at some times the traffic was really bad. I am satisfied with it right now. I think it ran real well. At the same time the rat rod has a bone stock 454 BB engine with only a puller fan on it. He was behind me all the time in the same traffic and he was running 220-225*. So the idea that a pusher fan is bad and wont work is bull. The idea that all you need is a puller is bull in my opinion. I proved this wrong on this trip. What I am going to do now to help is drill the thermostat with a couple of 3/16" holes . I talked to some of the guys down there who had much bigger engines than mine and all of them had pusher and mechanical fans and some had pusher with puller fans and they told me that when they drilled the thermostat that it helped but running down the road the temp never ran over 180*. Most of the time it ran between 160-180*. So the idea that the pusher fan on the front would block air flow to the radiator and it would overheat is false. Thanks for all your input.
           
        • 4spdragtop

          4spdragtop FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          So if I test my coolant mix and its boil over is 260. Anything below that is a safe temp? So running at 250 in this case is safe?
          Next scenario is straight water, same thing but boil over is NOW 212.
          Your boil point can vary quite a bit.
          Then like you said pressurizing it raises it even more.
           
          Last edited: Oct 10, 2017
        • Tooljunkie

          Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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          Well, my thinking is if its hitting 220,thats about as high as i would want to see my gauge go.
          The corvette during first run up going past my comfort zone bothered me,but thermostat was open and coolant was flowing.

          Drilling thermostat is to aid in purging air. A couple 3/16” holes wont really assist cooling. Just makes system easier to fill.
           
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