TKX vs T56

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I'm looking at it this way. All the newer (auto) trans from Mopar used in the high performance cars are using 7 and 8 speed transmissions. Look at the low gear ratios and how they split the gear ratios all the way up. AND, they are using a final gear ratio like a 3:25 or something. Here's the advantage to this setup that makes total sense to me. Lets say a low gear ratio of (just saying) 5.0 to 1 and split up all the way to overdrive. With that low gear ratio you can now launch the car like a 4:56 rear gear BUT, with that 3:23 rear gear drive shaft AND the ring and pinion speed is very low not singing high tones, spinning like crazy. I bought the 6 speed trans but really didn't want to or do I like it. GEAR RATIOS are all wrong for a street car that also wants to go the freeway or across country drive? Long ago when I bought that 6 speed I talked to all aftermarket trans companies on why don't you make gear ratios like I want. 5.0 on low then split to 5th or 6th that is 1 to 1. Now run a ring and pinion of lets say 2:90 or 3:40. Now the car will launch well and going down the highway won't be singing high "C" with the driveshaft and rear end!!! U-joint DO suck up alot of HP! Everyone I talked to looked like deer in the headlights------------ had no idea what I was talking about? SO, for most cars made for the street the 5 speed has only one overdrive, no need for the 2nd overdrive gear. There is alot of what info is, what and how does this all work together. And as usual there is twenty different ways to go about this. SO, GOOD LUCK with everything.
FJB SHOCKS
Jeff
 
Wow it got really cold really fast today. Only did a little more as I had the contractor coming over to look at the shop again and get a game plan on his guys starting on it next week.

Need a couple small wacks with my bfh and this cross member would be right in line. It would most likely be way easier if I was pushing it up from below instead of doing everything from inside and down the cross member.

From what I can see with the other cross members that run below the transmission and the RT’s cross member is that you don’t have to cut as much of the cross member. For this one to go in line with the bolt holes you are definitely cutting really close to the spacer in the stock cross member. You could probably strip the paint off this hurst one and weld it directly to the stock cross member for extra support.

Anyways, enjoy. I’ll get the quote from SST tomorrow on a T56 and I guess make a decision. I assume the t56 will run about 8k with the QuickTime bell housing. I found a QT 6077 bell housing near me for 600 but unfortunately I think that is for a Ford T56 not a GM T56

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Didn't DionR create some CAD templates for T56 cross member and sent them off to get metal cut to shape?

I did, but it's a G3/Holley kit swap specific setup. So it's meant for a motor that is 1.75" forward and maybe up a little from stock.

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Doesn't mean someone couldn't do the same.

I started working on a setup for a T56 mount with the motor in the standard location, but haven't progressed far since I don't have anything to mock it up with to see how it would work.

Crossmember T56 LA v7.jpg


Not sure I like it, and I know it needs to be tweaked.
 
I did, but it's a G3/Holley kit swap specific setup. So it's meant for a motor that is 1.75" forward and maybe up a little from stock.

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20250303_160955-jpg.1716373697


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Doesn't mean someone couldn't do the same.

I started working on a setup for a T56 mount with the motor in the standard location, but haven't progressed far since I don't have anything to mock it up with to see how it would work.

View attachment 1716493531

Not sure I like it, and I know it needs to be tweaked.
Those look substantial..
 

Looks similar enough, and like a decent piece. That flat stock and bent one I'm not so sure about.

I wouldn't run it without a welded in top torsion bars or not.

Bad assumption, the Todd Ron one is a LOT stronger because its a continious 3D shape, its essentially 3 pieces welded together to make a u-channel. Flat pieces of stock have to be extremely thick and/or have ribs/darts in them to be anywhere near the strength of a 3D shape. I can bend 1/4" bar stock with my bare hands, you can't even flex the Todd Ron one and IIRC the stock one doesn't flex either. The ToddRon one is beefy. I have zero concerns with it's strength.

The hurst one doesn't look too good, in these spots its basically just plate so it can flex there. flat plate is pretty bad against bending without a continous edge. This is probably like 1/4", not something like half or whatever, which you wouldn't use because its too heavy.
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You could pretty easily make a top like the ToddRon one with cardboard templates and plates if you can weld. I bought it because I saved a bunch of hours with it, which made it worth the cost of admission to me.

Honestly the crossmember welding is a lot easier than doing the sheet metal to me. You really want to tie the crossmember into the floor also. If you look in my topic its all welded together and the floor is very very stiff.

Yeah, I do not like the sharp bends on the Hurst mount. It's not that strong in the corners, I would gusset that for sure.
I did, but it's a G3/Holley kit swap specific setup. So it's meant for a motor that is 1.75" forward and maybe up a little from stock.

1742350754981-png.1716380972


20250303_160955-jpg.1716373697


20250306_094336-jpg.1716374797


Doesn't mean someone couldn't do the same.

I started working on a setup for a T56 mount with the motor in the standard location, but haven't progressed far since I don't have anything to mock it up with to see how it would work.

View attachment 1716493531

Not sure I like it, and I know it needs to be tweaked.

I don't think you're far off. Moving the transmission mount back is easy enough from the rear mounting point, but you'd have to lower the rear section of the crossmember to clear the rib on the transmission. You can see how the ToddRon rear mount section comes back up from the rear of the crossmember section

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I don't think you're far off. Moving the transmission mount back is easy enough from the rear mounting point, but you'd have to lower the rear section of the crossmember to clear the rib on the transmission. You can see how the ToddRon rear mount section comes back up from the rear of the crossmember section

img_5913-jpeg.1715362219

Yeah, I eyeballed my setup after doing that layout and thought about what it would look like with the trans further back. At the very least the bottom has to come down some to clear the flange on the tailhousing, mine clears that so I could keep the bottom a little higher. I pushed the back flange of the lower crossmember back the full amount so it shouldn’t need to be cut like the TR setup, but it makes the offset look huge to me. Plus I dropped the 1” spacers. Overall, it’s close, but won’t work as is.

But I don’t know how the upper crossmember works so the trans might end up even lower, or maybe the tail would come up. So until the upper is finalized, the lower is just a guess. And I don’t have a way to mock anything up so…

I guess if I was really wanting to mess with it, I could bolt in an LA and use my G3 bell and T56 to use as a mock up. But that’s a ton of work.
 
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