to stroke or not to stroke?

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love these threads by the way.....this is my way of thinking, I have the heads, intake, carb, headers, etc on a 360 , so in considering a new short block build , is a stroker that much more money than a 360 build? I understand the stroker kit cost itself is, but other than that is it that much more?

my thought is if I'm going to pay machining costs , pistons, camshaft for a stock stroke 360, why not build a 408 for not much more money for the extra torque/hp for a street motor

I've only built stock stroke engines , just wondering what you experienced folk think
This is exactly why I did a stroker. It's all in the crank and pistons. The difference between a new stock crank & pistons, and a new stroker crank & pistons ? Like $400? $400 for an extra 50 cubes. I was sold.
 
If you're going to build a engine with power you will start with a core and build from there. You will need probably need to bore the block and replace the pistons (which come in the stroker kit), recondition or replace the rods (also in the kit), turn the crank (kit again). Why not go with a stroker. I don't believe any one here that has built a stroker regrets doing so. tmm
 
If you're going to build a engine with power you will start with a core and build from there. You will need probably need to bore the block and replace the pistons (which come in the stroker kit), recondition or replace the rods (also in the kit), turn the crank (kit again). Why not go with a stroker. I don't believe any one here that has built a stroker regrets doing so. tmm

A GREAT idea for a thread ! And I plan to post it in general discussion . Who regrets going stroker ?
I predict not many, if any?
 
So am i and its running FASTER or as fast as some strokers out there:D:D

Right on! Not sayin your stroker wasn't a good runner, it just sounds like the 360 really likes the combo.

I hope my previous comments didn't sound like I am for or against stock stroke or stroker motors one way or the other. I was just trying to give a guy props on a nice running motor. I have both and I'm just getting back into mopar muscle cars again. My stock stroke 340 build is closest to completion so it's going to get finished first. If I have the time and money my W2 stroker will get built later. The 340 already has most of the machine work done and 90% of the expensive parts bought.
 
If you stroke it too much, you'll go blind... :glasses7:
 
stock stroke 360 weighting in at 2950 with driver...has run 10.78 @ 122 in Vegas a few weeks ago...probably go 10.40s at sea level, 904 with 8 3/4....

signature below show best of 10.65 at Bakersfield..but engine continues to pick up...since it is only on its second season...and going to change camshaft from MP 590 to hughes 6064...

Here we go, folks! Fastest car listed so far is a stock stroke 360, pushing mid 10's in not the best air! Thanks 70aarcuda for posting your times.
 
Tony is also a tenured racer with purpose built cars...js
All cars are purposed built. Just different purposes :D And being an experienced racer doesn't disqualify his car. I like his post :)
 
You know perfectly well what I mean, and following up with "just different purposes" is a catch all cop out semantic statement...

I never said Tony's being an experienced driver doesn't qualify his car, as a matter of fact, it only bolsters my first statement. Besides, how many times have you seen someone drive a well prepped car to a poor ET because the driver doesn't know the car?

BLUF: Drivers familiar with their vehicles produce better ETs
 
This is what’s in my street car….and yes, it is street legal and street driven quite a bit. I drive it to the track more than I trailer it (just for fun), and I race about 3 times a month. I built this motor to make reliable power, run on pump gas (although I switched to e85), and not need much maintenance.

67 Barracuda, 410 cubes, pump gas friendly 10.8:1 compression,
ported Edelbrocks, small roller cam that is easy on parts (248/254),
small 750dp carb converted to e85, Victor intake,
727 with a PTC 8” converter, Moser fabricated MO875 rear, 4.10 gears
275/60R15 Hoosier drag radials, Caltracs,
Dynomax 3” bullets, 3200#’s with driver

Current bests in street trim are: 1.43 60’ times, 6.67 @102mph in the 1/8, 10.54 @ 125.6mph.
 
Hey Tony, how do you like that .590MP cam for the small block?
What rocker ratio?
Thoughts, tips, conclusions?
 
This is an apples to oranges comparison. This reminds of the guys that want to build a 318 'just to be different'. Why? Any engine can be built to "run a number" regardless of it's architecture.

Obviously, the main benefit of a stroker is the increased torque provided by the extra cubes and torque rules on the street. This requires less torque multiplication in the drive line which equates to less horsepower lost trying to get the car to move. You can build a stroker to RPM also, just need the heads to support it.

Think about it - a stock 340 has little in the way of torque off the line and usually needs a steep rear gear to get it moving. I know that first hand, the 340 in my Duster couldn't get out of it's own way until I had my foot to the floor. I changed from a 4.30 rear gear to a 4.10 for 'highway driving' and it lost .2-.3 1/10ths in the 1/4 mile. Stock stroke needs RPM where a stroker generally performs better at a lower point. I was shifting my car at 7,200, not many strokers are getting wound up that high. If you race a lot, RPM wears parts faster and requires more diligent maintenance so a high strung small block may end up costing more in the end depending on intended use.

It's kind of a no-brainer to build a stroker for a street car, it costs basically the same all else being equal. A race car is debatable, just depends on what you want the car to do. 8,000 rpm small blocks are cool but can be tough to live with on the street.

Again, any engine can be built to do XY or Z, it just needs the right parts. The stroker just makes it easier.
 
This is what’s in my street car….and yes, it is street legal and street driven quite a bit. I drive it to the track more than I trailer it (just for fun), and I race about 3 times a month. I built this motor to make reliable power, run on pump gas (although I switched to e85), and not need much maintenance.

67 Barracuda, 410 cubes, pump gas friendly 10.8:1 compression,
ported Edelbrocks, small roller cam that is easy on parts (248/254),
small 750dp carb converted to e85, Victor intake,
727 with a PTC 8” converter, Moser fabricated MO875 rear, 4.10 gears
275/60R15 Hoosier drag radials, Caltracs,
Dynomax 3” bullets, 3200#’s with driver

Current bests in street trim are: 1.43 60’ times, 6.67 @102mph in the 1/8, 10.54 @ 125.6mph.

Nice car and times. It kills me to see a 10.50 street car, the last time I had an old mopar muscle car if you were running a 10.50 it was in a flat out drag car. These were few and far between in 1988 but they seem like the norm today. This is what I'm shooting for with my project car, something fast and fun that I can play around with.
 
This is what’s in my street car….and yes, it is street legal and street driven quite a bit. I drive it to the track more than I trailer it (just for fun), and I race about 3 times a month. I built this motor to make reliable power, run on pump gas (although I switched to e85), and not need much maintenance.

67 Barracuda, 410 cubes, pump gas friendly 10.8:1 compression,
ported Edelbrocks, small roller cam that is easy on parts (248/254),
small 750dp carb converted to e85, Victor intake,
727 with a PTC 8” converter, Moser fabricated MO875 rear, 4.10 gears
275/60R15 Hoosier drag radials, Caltracs,
Dynomax 3” bullets, 3200#’s with driver

Current bests in street trim are: 1.43 60’ times, 6.67 @102mph in the 1/8, 10.54 @ 125.6mph.

Nice!! Mid 10's and street legal stroker!!! Would your cam work well in a stock 5.9 magnum with just upgraded valve springs????
 
This is an apples to oranges comparison. This reminds of the guys that want to build a 318 'just to be different'.

I disagree with this statement. Nobody says " I will build a stock 360 just to be different"! In fact, there are way more stockers out there than strokers. And I think a lot more goes into it than what else you mentioned in your post. I can think of many reasons to build a 318 or a stroker 410. Here is just one example: For instance, a bracket car. I would much rather have a stock block 360 than a stroker! Why? Because a couple of hundred bucks replaces the entire engine if something should let loose. And if I'm slower than your stroker, it means I get to go first. If I'm more consistant, I'll put your stroker on the trailer in the first round.
 
You know perfectly well what I mean, and following up with "just different purposes" is a catch all cop out semantic statement...

I never said Tony's being an experienced driver doesn't qualify his car, as a matter of fact, it only bolsters my first statement. Besides, how many times have you seen someone drive a well prepped car to a poor ET because the driver doesn't know the car?

BLUF: Drivers familiar with their vehicles produce better ETs

Actually my youngest daughter drives it...and the oldest drive the 71 dart that has run 10.31 (should of went in the 20s but we screwed up) in Bakersfield...again ..stock stroke..and that one is about 100 lbs lighter..
 
Hey Tony, how do you like that .590MP cam for the small block?
What rocker ratio?
Thoughts, tips, conclusions?

Not a bad cam..just had it at the time I was assembling that engine...I would have preferred to run the Hughes cam but at the time I was retired on a fixed income..LOL

It is amazing the difference in sound between the hughes 6064 and mp590, I know sound does not make it run faster...LOL..
 
Actually my youngest daughter drives it...and the oldest drive the 71 dart that has run 10.31 (should of went in the 20s but we screwed up) in Bakersfield...again ..stock stroke..and that one is about 100 lbs lighter..

New best!! low 10's stock stroke. Thanks for posting :)
 
. I would much rather have a stock block 360 than a stroker! Why? Because a couple of hundred bucks replaces the entire engine if something should let loose. And if I'm slower than your stroker, it means I get to go first. If I'm more consistant, I'll put your stroker on the trailer in the first round.

I'm sorry ya lost me?? :dontknow:
 
bracket racing , he'll have a few lights advantage , won plenty with a 14.1 sec car back in the day
 
Not a bad cam..just had it at the time I was assembling that engine...I would have preferred to run the Hughes cam but at the time I was retired on a fixed income..LOL

It is amazing the difference in sound between the hughes 6064 and mp590, I know sound does not make it run faster...LOL..

The hughes has a smoother less choppy idle?
 
I think I'm really confused now ?! I thought the thread was which one is faster or quicker stroker or non stroker? am I too understand we have started seeing which one is a better bracket racer? and am I also understand that the stock stroke has conceded to be slower and more consistent?
 
Nice!! Mid 10's and street legal stroker!!! Would your cam work well in a stock 5.9 magnum with just upgraded valve springs????

I have no idea...probably....its nothing special, just an off the shelf Comp cam.
 
I don't chase ET's anymore, there will always be someone faster, and that's OK with me. I bracket race a lot, so there really is no benefit to going much faster for me. Now I just focus on consistency and cutting lights. Besides, the $$$/hp climes exponentially as you get into the 9's...just not worth in my opinion. My goal was to build a mid 10 second street car by myself, no engine builders, no chassis builders...just me and a head full of bad ideas, lol...goal accomplished :)
 
I disagree with this statement. Nobody says " I will build a stock 360 just to be different"! In fact, there are way more stockers out there than strokers.

I don't think that's so true in 2015. The reason is cost. You can buy a 4" cast crank for $370, re-use your factory 6.123" rods (if you want) with lighter pistons that also cost roughly the same as a stock-stroke piston and install it all without any modifications to the main saddles or block. Why wouldn't you do that?

The only reason to not make that choice is because you are trying to prove that a non-stroker will make the same power because logic does not support it. Read all the old threads where guys are trying to justify building a 318 rather than a 360. You can build the 318 to the moon but do the same things to a 360 and it will always make more power. It's physics, not opinion. More air/fuel for a given volume = more power.

But, I say prove it. Build two engines EXACTLY the same and see which one makes more power.

And I think a lot more goes into it than what else you mentioned in your post.

Like what?

I would much rather have a stock block 360 than a stroker! Why? Because a couple of hundred bucks replaces the entire engine if something should let loose.

So blowing up junkyard 360s is less cost effective than building a stroked bottom end? What sense does that make? Would you run a 40 year old junkyard 8:1:1 short block with factory balancing and bearing tolerances and heavy rotating parts without any prep? If so that's fine but that's not really fair here.

Again, think about it from a cost standpoint. If you are building something from a bare block why choose less cubes for the same price?

Maybe if you are running a gnarly stick car and are launching at 7 grand, well maybe you don't need a stroker. Most other applications can only benefit from more volume though. Unless I have it all backwards, I dunno.

And if I'm slower than your stroker, it means I get to go first. If I'm more consistant, I'll put your stroker on the trailer in the first round.

Please explain how you equate engine displacement with consistency at the drags.
 
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