Turbo six on a Budget

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That’s another thing how much boost can a slant hold I was hoping to make low-mid 300s at the wheel. What is the first breaking point.
There are some boosted slants at 30 PSI (but many beef ups). In the 8-15 lbs range, the first breaking point is either head gasket, rings or pistons. All are caused by the same issue "DETONATION", due to poor tuneup. Most of the succesfull boosted slant have MPFI
 
There are some boosted slants at 30 PSI (but many beef ups). In the 8-15 lbs range, the first breaking point is either head gasket, rings or pistons. All are caused by the same issue "DETONATION", due to poor tuneup. Most of the succesfull boosted slant have MPFI
My plan was to go mpfi and find a local tuner to help me because i am new to efi. My plan was to run mainly a stock rebuild for the bottom end is there a upgraded head gasket option.
 
The options for slant head gaskets are limited but I would not hesitate to have cometic make one. It’s good insurance. The biggest problem is 4 head bolts per cylinder. Short of oringing the decks, this will be the limiting factor. You’ll be fine with a cometic gasket, studded decks and moderate boost. Up to about 12 psi. That’s where it gets interesting. I can’t stress it enough to open up the ring gaps on whatever piston you use. I have been laughed at for running the gaps I do but I never break ring lands. It happened once on my first (expensive) turbo engine and that was enough for me.
 
The options for slant head gaskets are limited but I would not hesitate to have cometic make one. It’s good insurance. The biggest problem is 4 head bolts per cylinder. Short of oringing the decks, this will be the limiting factor. You’ll be fine with a cometic gasket, studded decks and moderate boost. Up to about 12 psi. That’s where it gets interesting. I can’t stress it enough to open up the ring gaps on whatever piston you use. I have been laughed at for running the gaps I do but I never break ring lands. It happened once on my first (expensive) turbo engine and that was enough for me.
How hard it is to oring the block? I see there is a tool to do it yourself and is it worth it. like i said my hp goal is ~350 how much boost does that take?
 
The original post was "Turbo slant six on a budget". Now we're talking about 15 lbs up boost, fuel injection, "O" ring block, custom head gasket, custom internal engine parts, electronic engine managment, etc. We are WAY past "budget".
 
The original post was "Turbo slant six on a budget". Now we're talking about 15 lbs up boost, fuel injection, "O" ring block, custom head gasket, custom internal engine parts, electronic engine managment, etc. We are WAY past "budget".
:lol:Totally agree. I don’t think there is a cheap path to a turbocharged 350hp slant. As the saying goes, “buy once cry once”.
 
How hard it is to oring the block? I see there is a tool to do it yourself and is it worth it. like i said my hp goal is ~350 how much boost does that take?
Any and all machine work should be done by a machinist. Including oringing the deck. As to how much boost will it take? It depends on how much hp the engine makes NA and how efficient the entire hot side is, how efficient the charge cooling is, and how appropriately the turbo is sized for the engine. Way too many variables to guess at a boost number.
 
:lol:Totally agree. I don’t think there is a cheap path to a turbocharged 350hp slant. As the saying goes, “buy once cry once”.
Actually, there is. But I don't know how many 1/4 mile passes, I could make. It is similar to my nitroused 170 motor. Stock rotating assy, cam, 2 bbl carb, fogger system spraying 225 shot. 12.905 at 101.85 MPH in a 3250lb street legal 66 Cuda. turning about 7,000 rpm. "ONCE"
 
Actually, there is. But I don't know how many 1/4 mile passes, I could make. It is similar to my nitroused 170 motor. Stock rotating assy, cam, 2 bbl carb, fogger system spraying 225 shot. 12.905 at 101.85 MPH in a 3250lb street legal 66 Cuda. turning about 7,000 rpm. "ONCE"
Lol “once”.
 
Lol “once”.
Ever heard the term "Bonzie" ? Just like top fuel cars "ONE & DONE"
My personal goal was 12's over 100mph in a street legal 170 slant. Got there. Normally ran a 150-175 shot.
My old turbo170 was low budget, 10-12 lbs boost, street driver ran low 13, at over 100 in the 1/4
 
The cheapest turbo setup he can do is a '78 to '83 Buick Regal draw thru system. They show up on ebay regularly. Try to get as complete of setup as possible, including the carb. Just build the intake adapter and install an electric fuel pump. Then have fun. They are good to about 9psi, which should give him about 225hp. Not enough to beat the mustang down the street. But a fun little ride until he has the resources to go bigger.
 
ya know, I had a 231 Buick turbo motor once, got it given to me by a neighbor who was moving out but didnt want to junk it. One of very few things I ever sold via Ebay about 15 years ago. back then never thought Id have another /6 since they werent made no more, now I'd like to have that setup back to rob the turbo stuff for my truck with a /6. I built up this head pretty good and shaved it probably a bit much to work now with a turbo but I have a couple of other /6 heads here I could run w/a turbo maybe some day.
"but cant do it now even if I wanted to" unless another setup like that fell into my lap once again.
 
Let's see, a '72 Dart Swinger weights about 3200 lbs. That 225hp should put you in the low 14's. Not bad for a \6. That's about 6 seconds faster then a stock one.
 
:lol:Totally agree. I don’t think there is a cheap path to a turbocharged 350hp slant. As the saying goes, “buy once cry once”.
buy once cry once is a good way to put it. I have put a lot of though into this whole matter and decide that no matter what I want to go with a ecu for fuel and spark (2 reasons it is a learning experience and allows more upgradeability in the future). Also I don't want to shoot for a number I am just curious as to what the limiting factors of a slant are when turbocharging as to where it is still reliable and a daily driver. As to beating the mustang down the street ill just have to swipe my grandpas challenger:lol:
 
The limiting factor is often the person planning the build by underestimating the stresses an engine endures with forced induction, even in small amounts. The engine design and limitations are often second. Having (4)7/16 bolts or studs per cylinder can only do so much. I've converted several to 1/2" with great results as well as numerous LS blocks that have seen over 35 lbs of boost successfully. Also, MLS gaskets are available for the Slant, but even by their own guidelines are not the best choice for forced induction, o-ringing the block and a copper gasket are. Plus, using the words budget and turbo or nitrous in the same sentence is often a subconscious admission that they really don't understand the dynamics or parameters involved in building such a combo, and will likely be doomed before it starts. So plan on making twice the HP you expect and prep the components accordingly. It really doesn't cost that much more additionally to do so and just cry once like Charlie mentioned.
 
Quote” …and run a straight distributor With a turbo Volvo distributor vacuum advance with retard. Yes it goes both ways.....vacuum advance and boost retard in one unit.Quote”
What models would this vacuum advance have been available on? This is interesting idea.

 
Quote” …and run a straight distributor With a turbo Volvo distributor vacuum advance with retard. Yes it goes both ways.....vacuum advance and boost retard in one unit.Quote”
What models would this vacuum advance have been available on? This is interesting idea.

Vacuum Advance / Boost Retard unit
this is a great thread on this topic. pretty sure the stock dist works up to about 9 psi nicely though.
 
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