I make a power rack version also. The only difference is in the rack mount, however by using offset bushings, a power rack can be mounted on a manual rack K and vice versa
Weight comparo: HDK vs Stock
- Thread starter HemiDenny
- Start date
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I make a power rack version also. The only difference is in the rack mount, however by using offset bushings, a power rack can be mounted on a manual rack K and vice versa
Because this set-up changes from a rear steer to a front steer ....steering centerline in front of the spindle centerline vs rear of it. It is like putting a helicopter motor in a submarine....it can work, but to get it to function correctly takes re-inventing the wheel....makes more sense to use a spindle designed for a front steer application
Right on Joe...see helicopter/submarine analogy above. It is more of a front steer spindle issue than anything. The Mustang spindle is used because it is inexpensive, readily available, and the geometry is already used in thousands of street/hot rod applications.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
lol. yea i got a kick out of that analogy.....
plus all the brake options that it opens up. some guys just can't over the fact that its "ford" part...lol..
plus all the brake options that it opens up. some guys just can't over the fact that its "ford" part...lol..
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
And using Pinto spindles is like using Pinto spindles. Not tall enough and the bearings are adaquate for my sons big wheel maybe.
Dug into my archives and grabbed some illustrative photos
Power Rack
RH steer conversion (for my mates down under)
6.1L Hemi - front shot w/power rack
What would you rather have? automotive tie rod ends or heim joints?
Power Rack
RH steer conversion (for my mates down under)
6.1L Hemi - front shot w/power rack
What would you rather have? automotive tie rod ends or heim joints?
MikeStahl
Well-Known Member
damn Nice!!! if only for a B-Body
Mike
Mike
I got a Road Runner lined up for measurement and fit....but only after the new gen Hemi Mounts are done...I have too many waiting for them.
B-body??...if only I had a customer??
Mustang II spindles.....they are beefier than the pre '73 spindles...and you can always upgrade to the Wilwood Pro spindels....the GEOMETRY is based on the Mustang II front steer spindle with an added 1/2" to improve roll center and lessen camber gain on some applications.
I'll bet the Wilwoods will give him all he can handle
magnumdust
Well-Known Member
The new swaybar mounts look great!
I think i'll be giving you a call once i get my car back on the road/squared away.
I think i'll be giving you a call once i get my car back on the road/squared away.
This bolt in strengthening hoop design allows for a 58" front track width vs 61" (others).
Now you can run a wide or tall wheel/tire on the front ...tucked in with adequate fender
lip clearance and turning radius.
Now you can run a wide or tall wheel/tire on the front ...tucked in with adequate fender
lip clearance and turning radius.
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
You have done your home work Denny and your setup is top notch! For a car using your setup for autox, some agressive camber gain from ride height to bump would be the frosting on the cake is what im getting at. A taller spindle is one way, and a shorter upper ball joint stud is another. I dont know how much of either will reward a guy with how much camber gain. A solution to this would open an even larger market for your setup. The Pro spindles available in different heights?
as far as I can tell..one height on the Wilwood spindle.
Because of my set-up and the height of the Mustang II based spindle, on a "stock height" A-body, I usually fight for more upper ball joint height to minimize camber change, but when the car is lowered, and a short tire is used....not needed. I think caster gain is very do-able using stock length ball joints..please refer to the pics on page one. That is simulated with taller /extended upper ball joints...put the std length in and the upper will swing out slightly on compression...is that what you had in mind?
conclusion #1...there are no two alike.
conclusion #2...there is only so much I can do utilizing the factory upper control arm pivots....that is until I talk to you guys (John/JohnParts, Ross/Orangewagon, Cody/Darth Vader)
Excellent points....now YOU got me thinking
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
Camber gain isnt actually going from negative camber to positive camber on compression, its actually the opposite that is desirable for cornering. Throw your car into a corner hard and a couple things happen at once, action and reaction stuff, the outside tire is going to compress and at the same time the body will roll. With 0 camber gain the outside tire will go to positive camber right along with the body roll which will reduce the tires contact patch. With some camber gain you can counteract that to some extent and make a HUGE difference in understeer. By the looks of it this what you had and engineered out of the geometry. The way you have it is exactly what I would love to have on a cruiser or straight line monster.
so...if I read you correctly.....for road course racing you would want a small amount of negative camber on compression?
I can "tune " the negative camber back in easily...by further raising the upper ball-joint pivot with QA1 extended ball-joints...they make the extended studs in several lengths....the extended ball-joint combined with the extended Wilwood spindle, that upper pivot point can move up to 1.5"
I can "tune " the negative camber back in easily...by further raising the upper ball-joint pivot with QA1 extended ball-joints...they make the extended studs in several lengths....the extended ball-joint combined with the extended Wilwood spindle, that upper pivot point can move up to 1.5"
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
Static negative camber as well as some increase in negative camber during compression seem to be the trend for success. Yes sir. Maybe this pic will clear it up.....
DR HEMI
Man on a Mission
72BBSwinger - Are you advising on an Autocross or Pro-Touring setup?
Watching every type of racing, I am well aquainted with negative camber but it is
not something that I want in my street car/muscle machine.
Standard HDK up and down will surely be the choice for most viewing here but it is
nice that it can be modified if desired.
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
Yes I think if it can be tweaked, his setup could attract ALOT more buyers, that is my entire point. With some good camber gain a guy CAN run less static camber on the street but still corner like its on rails.
I don't know....those cup cars remind me of my neighbor....the 72 year old lady with those giant sunglasses from down the street bouncing off the curbs heading for her driveway... WFO....she usually stops when she bounces off the end of her garage
Old Man Mopar
Righteous Dude
Isn't she a (sub) division champion?
Old Man Mopar
Righteous Dude
FYI - If anyone is building a B-motor A-body with a stick shift and an
HDK, Denny can modify TTi headers for a perfect fit and provide nice
smooth mechanical clutch linkage that works (TTi doesn't build these
headers to work with a stick).
He can also blueprint your Hurst shifter with the optional bushing kit.
Check out Dan's 383 Duster in Denny's A-bodies Big motors thread in
the Members Restoration's section.
HDK, Denny can modify TTi headers for a perfect fit and provide nice
smooth mechanical clutch linkage that works (TTi doesn't build these
headers to work with a stick).
He can also blueprint your Hurst shifter with the optional bushing kit.
Check out Dan's 383 Duster in Denny's A-bodies Big motors thread in
the Members Restoration's section.
HemiMark
Well-Known Member
this is a bad joke....... just saying... but I'm smiling while I'm typing this!:cheese:
Old Man Mopar
Righteous Dude
Champion of the culdesac..........baby.
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