????? What this called

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it is a distribution block for a drum brake car. Lawrence
 
You cant tell by the pics but it seems screwed. In side where the lines go looks screwed up. I have a 67 Dart with rear drums and front discs. It looks like i may need another?
 
That is NOT a proportioning valve. It's a combination distribution block and brake warning switch, see the electrical terminal? It has a piston inside, and if front or rear pressure drops off dramatically compared to the "opposite end" the differential in pressure forces the piston to one end, activating the switch, and turns on your warning lamp on the dash.

It is NOT necessarily just for a drum brake car. Some had separate metering/ proportioning valves.
 
67Dart273 said:
That is NOT a proportioning valve. It's a combination distribution block and brake warning switch, see the electrical terminal? It has a piston inside, and if front or rear pressure drops off dramatically compared to the "opposite end" the differential in pressure forces the piston to one end, activating the switch, and turns on your warning lamp on the dash.

It is NOT necessarily just for a drum brake car. Some had separate metering/ proportioning valves.
Click to expand...
Thank you.......Are these available easily? Expensive?
 
hello, as stated its a distribution block. I have several new ones here. lets talk. I sent you my email.
 
FWIW...when I redid the brakes on my 68, I eliminated this distribution block/safety switch. I was converting the rear to BBP with B body 10 x 2-1/2" drums. The fronts are BBP 73-76 discs. Since I had it all apart anyway, I plumbed in a Line-loc for the future 4 speed and added a cheap Summiit (Wilwood) adjustable proportioning valve.

The front brake line goes from the MC into the Line-loc then into a simple tee with outlets to each front brake. The rear line goes from the MC into the adj prop valve then rearwards to the rear brakes. I no longer have a safety switch which does nothing more than turn on the dash light if it senses a leak in the system. I had to custom bend several lines and ended up having a small leak. How did I know w/o the safety warning light? I stood on the brake pedal and held it. Gradually the pedal started moving toward the floor which told me I had a leak. I found the leak and "fixed" it by turning the fitting tighter. So now, I test it occasionally by doing the same simple test at traffic lights. This may not be a good approach for everyone but I like it simple and the fewer connections, the better.

The picture shows the alum MC and you can just see part of the adj prop valve mounted to an aluminum bracket underneath the MC and the Line-loc on the inner fender. Those are temporary bleeder lines going into the reservoir cause I bled it on the car, not the bench. Excuse the messy wiring, it needs to be re-done.
 

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KosmicKuda said:
FWIW...when I redid the brakes on my 68, I eliminated this distribution block/safety switch. I was converting the rear to BBP with B body 10 x 2-1/2" drums. The fronts are BBP 73-76 discs. Since I had it all apart anyway, I plumbed in a Line-loc for the future 4 speed and added a cheap Summiit (Wilwood) adjustable proportioning valve.

The front brake line goes from the MC into the Line-loc then into a simple tee with outlets to each front brake. The rear line goes from the MC into the adj prop valve then rearwards to the rear brakes. I no longer have a safety switch which does nothing more than turn on the dash light if it senses a leak in the system. I had to custom bend several lines and ended up having a small leak. How did I know w/o the safety warning light? I stood on the brake pedal and held it. Gradually the pedal started moving toward the floor which told me I had a leak. I found the leak and "fixed" it by turning the fitting tighter. So now, I test it occasionally by doing the same simple test at traffic lights. This may not be a good approach for everyone but I like it simple and the fewer connections, the better.

The picture shows the alum MC and you can just see part of the adj prop valve mounted to an aluminum bracket underneath the MC and the Line-loc on the inner fender. Those are temporary bleeder lines going into the reservoir cause I bled it on the car, not the bench. Excuse the messy wiring, it needs to be re-done.
Click to expand...

I did the same thing but without the line lock (not drag racing this car cause theres no strip on Oahu anymore). so my car is setup more for auto-x and spirited road driving. I placed my adjustable prop valve just inside the rocker panel, in between the rocker and drivers seat so that i can adjust the brake bias on the fly.
 
KosmicKuda said:
FWIW...when I redid the brakes on my 68, I eliminated this distribution block/safety switch. I was converting the rear to BBP with B body 10 x 2-1/2" drums. The fronts are BBP 73-76 discs. Since I had it all apart anyway, I plumbed in a Line-loc for the future 4 speed and added a cheap Summiit (Wilwood) adjustable proportioning valve.

The front brake line goes from the MC into the Line-loc then into a simple tee with outlets to each front brake. The rear line goes from the MC into the adj prop valve then rearwards to the rear brakes. I no longer have a safety switch which does nothing more than turn on the dash light if it senses a leak in the system. I had to custom bend several lines and ended up having a small leak. How did I know w/o the safety warning light? I stood on the brake pedal and held it. Gradually the pedal started moving toward the floor which told me I had a leak. I found the leak and "fixed" it by turning the fitting tighter. So now, I test it occasionally by doing the same simple test at traffic lights. This may not be a good approach for everyone but I like it simple and the fewer connections, the better.

The picture shows the alum MC and you can just see part of the adj prop valve mounted to an aluminum bracket underneath the MC and the Line-loc on the inner fender. Those are temporary bleeder lines going into the reservoir cause I bled it on the car, not the bench. Excuse the messy wiring, it needs to be re-done.
Click to expand...

Hi, was wondering what master cylinder you had? I'm in the middle of upgrading to 4 wheels disc and was wondering if you have had luck with this mc thanks......sorry for the hack :(
 
KosmicKuda said:
FWIW...when I redid the brakes on my 68, I eliminated this distribution block/safety switch. I was converting the rear to BBP with B body 10 x 2-1/2" drums. The fronts are BBP 73-76 discs. Since I had it all apart anyway, I plumbed in a Line-loc for the future 4 speed and added a cheap Summiit (Wilwood) adjustable proportioning valve.

The front brake line goes from the MC into the Line-loc then into a simple tee with outlets to each front brake. The rear line goes from the MC into the adj prop valve then rearwards to the rear brakes. I no longer have a safety switch which does nothing more than turn on the dash light if it senses a leak in the system. I had to custom bend several lines and ended up having a small leak. How did I know w/o the safety warning light? I stood on the brake pedal and held it. Gradually the pedal started moving toward the floor which told me I had a leak. I found the leak and "fixed" it by turning the fitting tighter. So now, I test it occasionally by doing the same simple test at traffic lights. This may not be a good approach for everyone but I like it simple and the fewer connections, the better.

The picture shows the alum MC and you can just see part of the adj prop valve mounted to an aluminum bracket underneath the MC and the Line-loc on the inner fender. Those are temporary bleeder lines going into the reservoir cause I bled it on the car, not the bench. Excuse the messy wiring, it needs to be re-done.
Click to expand...

Hi, was wondering what master cylinder you had? I'm in the middle of upgrading to 4 wheels disc and was wondering if you have had luck with this mc thanks......sorry for the hack :(
 
67Dart273 said:
That is NOT a proportioning valve. It's a combination distribution block and brake warning switch, see the electrical terminal? It has a piston inside, and if front or rear pressure drops off dramatically compared to the "opposite end" the differential in pressure forces the piston to one end, activating the switch, and turns on your warning lamp on the dash.

It is NOT necessarily just for a drum brake car. Some had separate metering/ proportioning valves.
Click to expand...
Correct. The one shown is not for disc brakes. If you're running factory brakes, you can get a stock one off a donor car. If you're running something custom or you just want a new one, get an adjustable valve.
 
slowburn said:
Hi, was wondering what master cylinder you had? I'm in the middle of upgrading to 4 wheels disc and was wondering if you have had luck with this mc thanks......sorry for the hack :(
Click to expand...

It's a long story...but when I first got the car, it had been converted to the 73-76 discs but it still had the manual drum brake MC. I replaced it right away with a 73-76 A body power disc brake MC that I ran manually, no power brakes. (15/16" bore) The feel was excellent, I really liked it. Then about 3 summers ago I converted the rear to BBP to finally match the front. I sent C-body axles to Moser and they shortened and re-splined them. I sourced most of the other brake parts from swap meets. This is when I redid the plumbing. I went to a local Auto Zone and the counter guys brought out about 6 different aluminum MC's from 80's Mopars. I opened the boxes and looked for the recess in the piston that retains the funky o-ring that holds the pushrod. Anyway, the only one that had the recess was 1-1/8" bore so I bought it. I usually try to reduce the car weight whenever I can so that's why I went aluminum with an adapter from AR Eng. But the feel with the 1-1/8" bore was extremely hard. Sometimes at a red light I would use both feet on the pedal just to keep it from creeping.

Then I was at a winter swap meet and bought the one that is on the car now. I bought it from a racer and it had been on a shelf the last 20 years or so with fluid in it so the piston bore was kinda gummed up. I disassembled it and was able to clean it with chemicals and very fine Scotchbrite and the bore is perfect. Some of the aluminum Mopar MC's hava an angled reservoir, but I used a level one. I also converted to DOT5 synthetic because it's a summer car only and it doesn't eat paint if you spill or have a leak.

I'm pretty sure it is an old Direct Connection part as it was blue anodized on the outside. This one is 1-1/32" bore. The feel is fine, but it's a little stiffer than the 15/16" bore iron one I started with. If you are going to 4 wheel discs, and are using a disc/drum MC, you'll need to remove the rear residual pressure valve that is just inside of the tapped hole for the rear brake fitting.

dennis
 

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Hi Kosmic Kuda, I am in the same situation as you are. I read over your post and am a bit confused as to which master you used.It kind of scared me when you said that you had to use both feet to keep the car from rolling.I will be running a 440 in a 68 Dart. So what application did you end up using? Donor car was a 1976 Dodge Dart
Thanks
 
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