When was the last time you saw one of these (mystery race engine purchase)

[66Valiant528]

I ran the 474, 484 and 509 cam in my 68 B 4spd with 410s. Mopar head porting templet 906 heads. Mopar M1 open plenum 850DP. 104mph, 105 mph and 108 mph. Briefly had a Hughs 3036 cam ran like 102...called Hughs who was thrilled I ran 102. I asked about his satisfaction warranty. Pretty much told me to pound sand. That was like 20 years ago. Never have I bought or thought about a Hughs product since then and I'd hazard to guess 45 to 50k dollars later. I ran that 509 on the street for years till I went solid. I think I've still got it somewhere.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

104mph, 105 mph and 108 mph. Briefly had a Hughs 3036 cam ran like 102...called Hughes who was thrilled I ran 102.

I'd say that running the .509 with solid lifters lashed around .008 and 1.6 rockers would be good for even more...

 

[crackedback]

small block 508/292.. it was actually damn good on the street.. MP short block, eddy heads, rpm intake, had a dynamic converter, 3.91 gear and a proform 750 DP.

The magic bean in the equation.

 

[abodyjoe]

The magic bean in the equation.

it had a turbo action or something in it and I thought it ran good, then i put that dynamic 9.5" converter in it and holy **** what a difference.

 

[RustyRatRod]

it had a turbo action or something in it and I thought it ran good, then i put that dynamic 9.5" converter in it and holy **** what a difference.

I loved that car. It was cool.

 

[MOPARMAGA]

That nasty Idol was a killer tune to live by. I have cars with .750 valve lift that don't sound as good at idle as the old 509

I don't know why you want to trade that for this but here ya go.
Lol

This **** will buff out.

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

The rockers appear to be Dove which are sold by ICH. At minimum I will rellace the damaged rockers and the shafts.

Dove rockers are good quality. Made in Ohio

Tom

 

[autoxcuda]

Dove rockers are good quality. Made in Ohio

Tom

thank god you can still get them.

You get something like this with Isky, Crane, or something oddball is hard to find a good match.

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

Dove Manufacturing, Columbia Station, Ohio

Chrysler Roller Rockers

Tom

 

[Turbo440Dart]

@Turbo440Dart car on the dyno with .509 cam.

Where’s the red X for that turd

 

[TT5.9mag]

Where’s the red X for that turd

Call it what you want, but it still sounds better than most.

 

[junkyardhero]

Where’s the red X for that turd

can confirm, seen it in person. total pile.

and the cut fenders?!?? *clutches pearls*

owner is kinda cool tho

 

[rumblefish360]

those short blocks were just under 1500 bucks. I'm sure machining wasn't perfect.

Yep! I’ll be honest and say what ever amount I’m paying for what ever it is, it should be right. Not screwed up.

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

After removing the heads I was dismayed to see #6 piston with a mighty divot near the spark plug. It does notvhave any witness marks so I'm assuming someone overtimed it ot ran it lean or both. I have a few theories on how this happened.

Currently I am stuck on the damper which is stuck on the crankshaft. I have tried all of the old tricks with no luck. Any suggestions are welcome : D

Once the damper is removed I can removecthectiming gears and get some numbers off of the purple shaft.

I might fix the short block if the bores look/measure good. It has ross 4.375 pistons amd H beam rods swinging on wgat appears to be a stock forged 440 crank.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Have you tried a slide hammer on the damper to persuade it? Admittedly, it’s not the best thing in the world for the thrust bearing, but it may be enough to shock it loose enough to where a conventional puller can take it off the rest of the way.

 

[PRH]

That head gasket was about one run from failure.
8519’s or 1009’s?

Aftermarket damper?
My guess is it wasn’t honed prior to installation.

I had a couple here like that. Wouldn’t budge.
I ended up drilling a hole in it right alongside the crank snout, which allowed just enough give where the removal tool could do it’s job.
I had an ATI on another engine that wouldn’t budge either.
To save the damper, I sacrificed the timing cover(bent it enough to get the cam bolts out and slide the upper sprocket loose from the cam), then after the pistons and rods were all out I removed the crank and got the damper off in a press.
It was effin tight!!

 

[NC Engine Builder]

That head gasket was about one run from failure.
8519’s or 1009’s?

Aftermarket damper?
My guess is it wasn’t honed prior to installation.

I had a couple here like that. Wouldn’t budge.
I ended up drilling a hole in it right alongside the crank snout, which allowed just enough give where the removal tool could do it’s job.
I had an ATI on another engine that wouldn’t budge either.
To save the damper, I sacrificed the timing cover(bent it enough to get the cam bolts out and slide the upper sprocket loose from the cam), then after the pistons and rods were all out I removed the crank and got the damper off in a press.
It was effin tight!!

Isn't it amazing the number of dampers that are undersized?

 

[PRH]

The ATI’s come with instructions telling you that it’s pretty much mandatory to fit the damper to the crank.

I think it should be “SOP”.

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

That head gasket was about one run from failure.
8519’s or 1009’s?

Aftermarket damper?
My guess is it wasn’t honed prior to installation.

I had a couple here like that. Wouldn’t budge.
I ended up drilling a hole in it right alongside the crank snout, which allowed just enough give where the removal tool could do it’s job.
I had an ATI on another engine that wouldn’t budge either.
To save the damper, I sacrificed the timing cover(bent it enough to get the cam bolts out and slide the upper sprocket loose from the cam), then after the pistons and rods were all out I removed the crank and got the damper off in a press.
It was effin tight!!

The gaskets are interesting. They are Fel Pro yet I cannot find any numbers. The head bolts are different than what I am used to seeing. They are Manley brand and dont appear to be very hard and have this strange nylon washer. I definitely won't be reusing the head bolts.

If anyone has a good ARP p/n for them I'll order a set.

The damper is a lower end offshore unit. I'm going to give it one more session with a little heat and a slide hammer. After that is getting drilled. I considered removing the crank and using the press. If it was an ATI that would be the plan.

Thanks for everyone's advice!

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

The ATI’s come with instructions telling you that it’s pretty much mandatory to fit the damper to the crank.

I think it should be “SOP”.

I'd say 50% of the ATI dampers I check have a loose crank bolt. Strange things happen when the correct press fit is not achieved.

As stated SOP to check them. A lot of people start them with a mallet and run them down with three quarter inch damper. I have also seen my fair share of ugly crank snouts from a tight damper.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

You probably want to check with Indy on the head bolts. IIRC, the early Indy heads required a specialty bolt or stud arrangement.

 

[PRH]

I haven’t used any of the Manley bolts in a while, but they never used to come with washers, just a flange under the bolt head.
They aren’t great.

The ARP number is 145-3607

 

[PRH]

Not to stray too far off topic……

But I’ve seen this situation more than once on engines assembled by a DIYer, with an ATI damper and a good crank…….and a slinger.

If the register for the lower gear extends out past the gear a bit, and is larger in diameter than the ID of the slinger.
So, as the damper is installed, it’s trying push the slinger up against the gear, over that register.
It doesn’t really go over the register, it just kind rolls the inner edge.
What happens over time is the soft slinger gets deformed and is no longer holding tension against the bolt.

I’ve also run into a situation where I fixed that, and discovered the back of the bottom gear wasn’t going flush against the crank.
The radius in the crank and the chamfer on the gear weren’t compatible with each other.

I put the gear in the lathe and modified the chamfer to clear the crank.

After those two items were addressed the damper went on farther enough to where it was contacting the Indy cover(where it wasn’t even that close before).
ATI sells a special notched washer to use behind the damper to space it out a bit.
It needed that, and some minor clearancing of the cover.

The damper bolt torqued up nice and solid after that.

I omit the slinger on that type of build.

I’ve also had the back of the damper hub stop before contacting the gear when it reaches the gear register step……which is solved by chamfering or putting a small counter bore in the ID of the damper hub.

 

[PRH]

interesting situation with those head bolts.
Between the weird washer(clear silicone?) and the thread sealer I can’t imagine the torque/stretch was anywhere near correct.

Cut a fire ring on a gasket, see if there’s a wire inside.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Those head bolts trip me out. I’ve never seen anything like that.