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haha.. too true

And the topside looks like? I would say that looks like a stock mopar shitty weld job!

Wow.. Good thoughts Chuck.. good thoughts.. :headbang:

Looks like your SOL Jim.. you bought junk.. haha..jk im lost on what you have there.. ill haev to come and see and take my old one back.. maybe someone will figure out what you mean.

there are adjustment nuts under the lower control arms. 3/4 i believe. you will have to make your adjusments and drive it down the street and back to make sure you have the suspension settled. then remeasure and viola! Cerwin

Your right with all the things i intend to do to this car i will need it on teh front rather the rear.. i was a idea from a long time ago that i was wanting to do with a previous car.

looks pretty freakin good man.. nice ride now i guess huh? id love to install something like that..but in the rear so the front will dive into corners.. and teh rear will stay tall and stiff.. Cerwin

i just bought the #415 and kit and ill put that in pretty soon too!

i remember when my steering wheel felt a little loose in the up and down motion i pulled the whole column apart to find out that there was a bearing that blew up and the nuckle at the bottom all you guys are looking at had moved maybe half an inch, so i just snugged it up by tapping the washer...

Those measurements are correct. Whats the concern fellow moparian? :lol:

haha.. the best.. i was going to consult google too! thanks Cerwin

didnt any abodies come with tilt?

easy work!

its do to both size and offset! but then again if you came down on size you could make it work! i run 73 arms and spindles Dont you find 7 is a little wide for front thats what i run.. 16x7 i had to modify to make fit and im 22 tall i think

he would have to be talking about the bolts, nuts, excentricks, and bushings.. i dont see why he would replace anything else unless somethings bent!! balljoints arent really a point of alignments.. unless they are worn out. hope that helps a little no links sorry! Cerwin

LOL, you didnt put it on backwards right? Jk.. no idea.. how bad is it restricting?

what are you putting it under and whats it going in? Cerwin

Im personally building a 360+727.. i changed my 7.25 a LONG time ago.. didnt want need or think i wanted the exspence when i finnally drop my 360 in and find out it wont handle.. 7.25's came behind S6's and some V8's most likely 273 and 318's even a stock 360 is way too much for a weeny 7.25...

its a DANA 60... no j/k heres a chart for future reference when buying a new one or just for your usage! but so you know your rear is a 7.25 since its behind a S6 and the fact that it has nine bolts.. and just because it lookes small! the 8.25 has ten bolts is an inch bigger in...

you dont wanna know how i made my 7.25 plates work!!!! :shaking2: but yes the 8.25 plates are an ince wider.. then again you have it all assembled anyway.

You know.. i can only asnwer a few. but what i do know is your good to instal it as is.. the leafs will bolt right in.. they did in my 66 vally had 10" drums mind you but my larger rims have lots of room. i think my ralleys fit over them.. and i think b bodies had ralleys too now that i think...

what parts do you have or plan on getting? my 73 duster disks fit on my 66 vally. i used the upper arms and lower balljoints and everything in between and the portioning valve and it went right in and it only took me half and hour.. i would think that all the parts would be the same mind...

there are different dimensions for the torsion bars, .87 are for slant six cars and .89 are for sb v8's and anything bigger would be bb.. as far as i was advised, you will need to find out what size you want to run, its not just as easy as saying bb or sb bars.. but then again if you call and...

unless its a tubular upper control arm and your using it for weight saving advantages then the original ones have always worked for me and i would suppose that sure if you weld it it will work but it could but the bushing out of line if you heat it up to much when you weld it and like Jim had...

my 1966 plymouth valiant is currently running 1973 dodge dart 11"disks. In your journey dont forget(which some will argue) to take the proportioning valve for the disk/drum. its different from the drum/drum proportioning valve. hope that tidbit helps down the line. but as far as what other...

Cerwin :thumblef:

is there a cheat to knowing what tube diameter and length my new u-bolts need to be? i can get a friend of mine to fab them up .. he owns a chassis shop. anyone know what they would be for a 8.25 ... a-body.. stock leafs..left and right??? Thanks a million Cerwin

toe wear normally causes the inner edge to wear smooth if your tierod perhaps is worn you would have a zigzag pattern on the inner edge, as for your outter edge that can be caused by camber. Has your car ever seen fac e to face with something not moving in that corner?

:salut: yes yes i can.. i am the inside mann! :salut:

Hes right I do.. I checked :book: