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It doesn’t even appear to be a ‘67 to ‘76 A body based on the ashtray that is visible in the background of one of the pictures? Looks like some wiring ‘work’ was already done on the vehicle too……

Earlier this month the same question was asked….. 1975 Plymouth duster brake relay question?

What car are you working on? That doesn’t appear to be a 1974 Valiant/Dart radio.

You need the 1973 version of this which is also available online to download at another site.

I haven’t been back out to the garage yet but, from when I took the picture yesterday, I don’t recall feeling any threads anywhere (part your thumb touches or the top part that keeps it in place swung up). I think someone described it well above in that the flat spade slides into the slot...

Here’s a picture of it. The combination of tight space and lighting to not get a shadow means it’s not a great quality picture though.

My 75 was rolled off the line in February 75. It has the hinged fuse panel. The thumb screw holding the panel up only turns 90 degrees before the panel swivels down.

We will take your word on the plug condition! Is anything in focus in that photo??

Yup, especially if you use a really big hammer to jam it in.

Thanks! I bought the Canadian Tire equivalent last month and installed it the other day.

The full number is 3755960 and the model application is for all factory installed except with 100 amp alternator.

This the VR on my 75 Scamp which is original. It was black in 1975. While the lettering is mostly worn, there appears to be part of a ‘4’ visible which means it was made sometime in 1974. My Scamp was made in early 1975.

To put it a different way, it sounds like you’ve walked into the pharmacist at Shoppers Drug Mart and have made a statement along the lines of “I’m experiencing some pain. Can you give me a pill?” The pharmacist needs more information to give you the correct pill (assuming it doesn’t require a...

I’ve already got a kill switch (tied into starter motor circuit even if the thieves bring another battery thinking I’ve bypassed the battery) hidden in Scamp so the battery switch would just be for safety over the winter. Ive had issues with poor connections between the post and terminal on my...

I’ve been thinking of a battery disconnect for my Scamp, primarily for when I rarely drive it during the winter. What battery disconnects are you using? When I read reviews on some, half of them indicated they were crap (ie: broke or didn’t fit). Post up yours if yours so I can get a good one!

Good recommendation! I bought one of them about 6 years ago and my neighbour has used it a few times on his Coronet.

As another person said, review the wiring diagrams for a bit to get familiar with them. Once you figure out how it’s laid out, it should be straightforward. Here’s a preview of what your going to see with you’re heated rear window in the ‘75 wiring info:

What’s under the hood? With that scoop I doubt it’s a slant 6 or a 2bbl 318? Buying a downloadable manual will be worth it in the long run. You’ll refer to it a lot to fix the existing wiring problems and it will be the proper road map instead of using generic ones. The later year A bodies...

Welcome! That’s a clean Duster and great to see another ‘75 A body around! There is a service manual book which includes wiring diagrams for the ‘75 cars. There’s another Mopar website that has the service manuals for most (all?) of the years so try googling it. They have been scanned into...

You hit the nail on the head here. But then it was also predicted it would result in this as noted in post #18 in this thread.

Your monosyllabic responses are probably going to have the people trying to help you with descriptive responses vanish. Peeps are trying to help you hundreds or thousands of miles away and all your responses don’t show a lot of effort.

What kind of car is it? High beams work? Sealed beam headlights?

Yup they are located under the battery tray. Whenever the radiator overflow bottle was added was when the horns were moved under the battery tray. Might have been in 1973 when that overflow was added.

Kudos to some of the folks who were able to read through that headache inducing verbiage. For the sake of those who have spent some time translating your ramblings, when you respond with updates, consider using some punctuation. Yes, it might take more time but the folks who have already...

My ‘75 has that flat braided ground cable too. I think the value of our late model A bodies just went up by $15 since we might have the only 2 with that ground cable/strap!

I bought the 340 6 pack coil mount when I upgraded to a LD4B intake a few years ago. Needed to do some grinding/carving on the coil mount so it would fit around the intake plenums though. You’ll need to do the same.

This is a 1975 engine bay but as others have said, it’s mounted to the intake.

Learning how to fix a significant wire rats nest is going to take time, especially if your electrical skills are limited to start with. If this is the same car you are trying to flip then wanting to keep your costs down (not buying a engine wiring harness) makes sense. However, the alternative...

The advice given in this thread is great. My head starts to hurt looking at that wiring ‘job’.

An option Chrysler came up with to suck more $ out of your wallet and to perhaps make you feel guilty using too much fuel? The Fuel Minder was a small vacuum actuated switch that would illuminate the left fender mounted turn signal indicator when engine vacuum was low in attempts to encourage...