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1972 Plymouth Scamp. full restoration 2010. $15,000 ORO ***** NO TRADES ***** This car runs strong. Starts on first key turn. Starts when cold, starts when hot, doesn't matter. Drives and tracks straight. 360 LA block bored and stroked to 410. Eagle forged crank. Edelbrock aluminum heads...

1972 Plymouth Scamp (cousin to the Dodge dart) Asking $15,000 ORO Located in East Hampton CT 06424 Professionally painted in 2008. ***** NO TRADES ***** 360 LA block bored and stroked to 410. Eagle forged crank. Edelbrock aluminum heads. Built 904 automatic transmission. 8 3/4 rear end with...

I'm running a stage 3 box from them as well and can't say enough good things about how great it drives and steers

whoever wrote that article is a real genius! :thebirdm: :D

Rockauto will not be at the nats, if that's what you're asking. rockauto.com is the place to buy from them. They aren't going to have complete kits, you have to put the parts together yourself.

nope

looks like you need a 40 tooth Orange or 43 tooth Blue pinion. I'd try ebay

you'll need the tire size in order to pick the correct pinion gear. I hope you have tall tires with those gears

I would think the only big problem in relocating the tank would be making sure the fill tube still lines up with the body properly.

Is it a open or sure-grip? If you have an open rear you double the number, suregrip you don't double the number. check ebay for the speedo pinion. I picked up for a lot less than what yearone wants.

I haven't used PST parts myself, but I know some people that have and have only heard good things about them. I plan on getting UCA and strut rod bushings from them this winter.

were did you get the mc from? what kind is it?

when I put rear disks on my car I just used a stock MC made for front disk/rear drum setup and took the residual valve out of the MC for the rear brake port. No problems after 2 years.

If you're going to upgrade the front brakes why not go with a disk brake conversion as outlined here: http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html ?

I wonder if bypassing the rear brake ports on the stock prop valve will cause the brake warning sensor in the valve to go off. :dontknow:

i'd go with moog or spicer

the mount is on the wrong side of the tabs on the block

check that the bulk head connectors didn't come loose.

I don't have a techie answer for you, all I know is that I've read on the msd forums that you should disconnect the ballast. So that is what I do.

I had the same problem when I changed mine last winter. I ended up using a big pry bar to rotate the receiver in the uca to get it lined up with the torsion bar. it was a real pia

Yea, my bad. I was trying to come up something non-vulgar. You get the point

I'd go at it with a small carbide bit on demal (sp?). Keep the speed low and work a slot into the tube stuck in the block. Before you get all the through the tube you should relieve enough stress on the tube to be able to punch it out. Or leave it for the machine shop. They'll be able to get it...

If you're not concerned about keeping stock looking I'd suggest going with a lokar 727 kickdown cable. It's bolt on and should only take you 20 minutes to install.

the sloppy steering was most assuredly from the 40 year old steering box etc.. it will be as tight as a baby's botttom with the alterkation and FR box

that shouldn't be a problem so long as you have a LH and RH thread on each side. I've seen several occasions where the inner and outer were switched. If the center peice doesn't turn smoothly then you may have two LH or RH threads on the same side.

what year car is that column out of? sometime after 69 or 70 they stopped using the lower column bushings. That looks like one that isn't supposed to have a bushing. You just adjust the location of the column mount to the firewall such that the steering shaft is centered in the column.

are using a jumper to connect the wires that go to the ballast?

Is it harder to start like this when it's hot? The fuel might be evaporating in the carb from the heat causing the starting condition you mentioned. I had that problem and resolved it with a carb spacer. Sorry, don't know about pressure question

you should not have the ballast with a msd box.

just loosen all of the motor mount bolts (mount to block and mount to frame) and use a pry bar to shift the motor toward the passenger side and away from the steering box and tighten the bolts back down. Takes me a helper to do this without killing myself.