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Some times life is just a :banghead: when it comes to old auto electrical issues. You could end up running around in circles if the problem is not completely corrected. I would bet all you need is a volt meter and time to find your problem/s: (even though your lights are acting up) Firstly as...

With your ignition on only....more then likely this is part of your ignition/starting system! What upgrades do you have or see if any? Electronic ignition added perhaps..sometimes jumpers/splices are added in a hurry and the connectors just left so you don't end up having a short. Do they all...

It's nice when everything works!! Just a stabb - Even though replaced 10 years, it sound to me like your "sending unit" is acting up. You say when it's full..it reads full, however after about 8 gallions use or so it reads MT. My guess is that if your sending unit is a float design the float...

May help: http://www.msdignition.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12013&highlight=blaster+mopar

You bet!!

Hee-he....Your so good at this stuff..."you had me scratching my head" WTF:read2:

Small block: Put #1 cyl TDC, point rotor At #1

Got the MSD (6a) only as I don't strip. I found it to be a nice addition for the cost. I'm only running with the basic late 70s dist however, I upgraded the voltage reg, swapped to a chome box and MSD wires. The mini starter with the above really improved starting, fuel burn and the "overall"...

Here ya be! (I just added the volt meter) but the same!

Depending on year...If a turn light fails...your indicator light stays on! My cluster indicator stayed on when my left turn light "ground wire" fell off the light housing itself. Perhaps your wires are worn or have a loose connection. I suggest you recheck both the front and rear grounds...

Being both Gas and Temp I think your Voltage Limiter (behind your cluster) is not grounded correctly or shorting out. The Voltage Limiter is a device that takes the voltage from the battery and turns it into a series of brief voltage pulses. The periods of on time is short and the off time is...

No go when wiggling wire or switch. Sounds to me like you still have a problem within the wiper motor itself. If you tap it and it works...it must be helping the field grab to start the rotation. If the switch is turned on with no rotation and you move the blades by hand I would guess it would...

Gee...why didn't I just do that :toothy10:

Done a few without the bought kit, however with a kit and directions suppled you should have no problems. My only tip I can share would be to ensure that you re-wire all your connections correctly "and" double check them..prior to flash up..(take your time). Also depending on your vehicles...

Not sure if you can follow this...it may help in your tracing. It's got to be close...67-76 Dodge/Plymouth..If not PM me and I will send e-mail.

Orange box is history!!! Not required (unless you have an "emergency setup") if your MSD fails! (More laying around wire just means "ugly")...:) unless, your into track racing or you don't trust what ya bought!!

Whitey...to your question...no! there just all wires going to one joining point! The brown/blue wires from my ignition "use too" go to the ballast before it was removed. BTW, I once used the 4 pin ballast, then changed to the 2 pin ballast. When I got my 6a...I rip all that old electrical spider...

This may help! Got it from another member and I have had "no" problems at all. I run without the ballast resistor now! My distrubutor is electronic. Here's a diagram of my setup. BTW...The (blue/brown) wires are from the ignition switch.

I went kinda through the same thing, and yes "as well" there maybe a few connector pins different between the different years. I ended up just cutting and swapping the few wires to match the correct pin....(all's cool and works great)

I think your going in the right direction. found this pic of a three terminal delay. Also,.... I'm not sure about your heater blower wire being brown in color, however most eye terminals are for a ground as in the next pic.

Your best bet and "cheapest" or perhaps "free" is a wrecker yard...Don't forget to push the button in when pulling it out!!

Redfish could be correct on this one! I know my 69 had a "extra" equipment feed sitting there when I did a rebuild! Your cluster lights power run does come from your light switch. Do you have any other insturment lights on the dash (as per...ash tray, heater light) and do they work? I still...

Doing your dash did you pull off your "time delay relay" and forget to put it back on? Just a stab! You may have to use a grounded pen light and probe each wire to find out if it's a battery fused supply only or works only with acc power, then work from there.

Not 100% with a 73 but...The "switch" itself has letters beside the spades or pins. "B" is ..or should be your correct run for the marker lights and cluster. It's quite possible that the female sleve within the plastic connector has moved back causing an open circuit. Sometimes, this plastic...

This is all I could muster up for ya. Not sure if it will help and I'm not even sure were their located. They sure seem harder to find these days. :idea1: If not, perhaps out of a MOPAR Magazine. http://www.turbinecar.com/molinks.htm

So was the resistor your problem?? Are you fine now? or just blaming the resistor because it still won't worky. If still no worky...Are you saying the starter won't turn over or just won't start....or both?:scratch:

Yes, you may have two problems.. You stated you kept on blowing fuses? Really sounds like a "hot short". Your going to have to find that first. Start at your light switch and inspect the connector if a connector spade has backed off. Also, the problem could be at your cluster connector (pin...

One wire is enough to screw up your day..and as stated...a 2 or 4 pin resistor? Here a more clear drawing.

Hi Tim, Just like too many people in a group going to a movie!! All good advice,but which one to pick! I'm "no" electrican, however I think a 60A is a tad bit high. It's like wrapping tin foil around a blown fuse. To me the Idea is to protect your system. If a fuse or link is rated to high it's...

Yes, sounds like a short! Again if it's "only" your cluster lights not working "I" would start by checking your light switch connector pin for the short...If not that, with the batt cable off, do a continuity check between the "light switche cluster light pin" and clusters connector to see if...