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go to a junk yard and pull the dist.,ecm and wiring from a car with the same size engine your running, ie, small block. big block or /6, the wiring is easy, just do a search and you will get detailed diagrams, that's the cheap way, now if you want to spend some cash, then get a mp electronic...

don't know if it helps the op, but it helps me, as my gauge only goes to 3/4 of a tank.

yes it was, ran a new ground wire, and it works brand new again, thanks all. Mark

I just cleaned the tail light sockets and used new bulbs when I put the car on the road in November, and used a good wiring harness, it may be the ground tho, because after I got it running, the wife said the brake light was dim on the driver side, pulled the ground wire off and put it back, and...

my driver side tail light will go out when I hit the brakes, both tail and brake lights work, but a coworker told me the driver side goes out, could it be the bulb or something else? thanks. Mark

the brown wire is the n.s.s, the other two are for the back up lights, glad you got it running.

flasher going nuts, maybe? I'd change that first, as when mine went out it did about the same thing.

connect one ohmmeter lead to a good ground and the other to pin no#5 on the ecm, if it shows continuity it's good, if not try cleaning the mounting surface to make sure you have a good ground to the ecm, and try again, if still no continuity, replace the ecm.

do you have a single or duel ballast?

ding ding ding, we have a winner:cheers:

fixed, I didn't think to check my 4 ways, they didn't work either, changed both flashers, and all is good, now if I can get my dash and park lights to work, thanks again. Mark

x2, I used a dakota starter on my scamp, same thing as the one warwagons mentioned.

the thermoquad is fine on a 318, read here on how to tune it,http://thermoquads.com/page204.html, great info. Mark

I would set the timing for initial first, see how it does, then you can set it for total, I had to do the same with my car, when I set the total first, I had to almost floor it to get in the garage, and it's almost a flat run into my garage. the vacuum is good, not sure of the cam in mine, but I...

I don't know why they did that, one's for the blower motor and the others for the ac, my scamp's the same way, I took the ac plug apart on mine.

ok thanks, I know I have a box of them somewhere, but I can't seem to locate them, so I'll just buy one, thanks again. Mark

my turn signal works on a a right turn, but just lights up and don't flash on a left turn, would the flasher cause this? both the front and rear bulbs light up so I'm thinking they are good.

Ok, I don't have ground wires running from the sockets, unless they are tied into the ground wire that bolts to the core support in the main harness, or were they done like the rears, and have a spade attached, for the grounds? if so, mine are m i a , and I turn the light out in the garage to...

how can I ground the front lights? I have a spare headlight switch, I'll swap it out, thanks for the ideals. Mark

74 scamp, the old under dash wiring harness was melted from a short, so I replaced it with a good one from a clean low miles parts car I found in the junkyard, and my dash/ park and turn singles in the front don't work, any ideal why? the bulbs are all new, my dome light works, as does the rear...

sounds like a short in the cluster, you may want to pull it and look at the back, to see if the copper lines are broke any place, and while you have it out look at the wiring that goes to it, for corroded, melted connections, good luck and keep us posted.

on my 74 scamp, with no seats in it, it wouldn't crank by the key, I jumped the 2 yellow wires together at the interlock relay, and problem solved.

if you got the skills, I say build your own, but if you have doubts, then buy one, no need to burn the car down, good luck either way.

yes and yes you did, answer your own question. you may get lucky, and they will still work, good luck.

my tank was bone dry on the scamp, and I put 5 gallons in, and it just moved a tad off E.

thanks, I wasn't sure, as I just got the car running, and still working on the electrical. Mark

I'm in the same boat with my wiper motor, thats why I didn't buy one from them, as my motor seemed to be hard wired from the factory, no connector, I hope someone will let you know what to do, I'll be watching for replys, good luck. Mark

yeah my car has that, that's what was giving me the no crank with key issues, the scamp in the yard is also a 74, and I have a fsm, I'm just not to good at reading the wiring diagrams, the eye's ain't what they used to be, maybe I should buy one of them color diagrams, as I get lost on the black...

it's melted thru the connector by the kick panel, the other wires are ok, it runs up under the dash somewhere? and some other wires are cut under the dash as well, drivers side by the fuse block, 1 brown wire and 1 yellow wire, taped together, by the ashtray steering column side, 1 red wire...

on my 74 scamp, I got the engine starting with the key, went to make holes in the new floor to mount the seats, before the carpet, anyway the wiring that runs to the rear lighting is toast, the pink, wire I'm guessing is the main hot wire? as it has all the coating melted off and fused the other...