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They,ll work.

It all depends if your axels on the Dana were made for 2 1/2 inch brakes,which you said you have on your 8 1/4.

As said above...You should be able to swap your 8 1/4 brakes onto your Dana.

10 X 2 1/2 inch brakes are the easiest to get replacement parts for.Think Dakota when asking for parts.JMO

I think I read on here about a disc brake kit(LBP)conversion for the 9 inch drum spindles.Try searching in the Brakes forum.

Yep remove the master and bench bleed.You need to bleed the air out of the master before installing.

Take the parking brake lever off and grind some off for clearance of the stud backs.I,ve done this before and it worked.

Save time and headache...cut them.:D

Yep

Darcy,use Dot 5 brake fluid.It has a higher heat rating,it also won,t remove paint if spilled/drips.:D

Have you replaced any of your flex lines(front and rear)recently?They tend to look fine on the outside,but swell inside.Just a thought...see ya soon.

I run DOT 5 in my race car.It also won,t remove paint if spilled.It also has over 500* rating.

I had the 7 inch booster rebuilt by Stewart,s in Stoney Creek,Ontario.This was for my 68 Barracuda and they got the parts(diaphram)from Cali.

Here,s a pic of my 68 Barracuda with power brakes.Hope this helps.:D

There should be a bracket welded to the floor that the flex line sits in,held by a C-clip.

With the back flex hose,I call it a split flex line(spelling)This line goes from hard line to proportioning valve,the other 2 hard lines at rear go from the split in the junction to each wheel cylinder.This hose is held to the housing with the vent/bolt.Here is a pic of my 73 Disc setup on my 66...

I used 89 Dakota backing plates for my 10 x 2 1/2 inch brakes,can also get the drums which will be LBP.Good Luck. Oh I had to break off a bracket at the bottom of the plate,then they work fine.

Depends if you had the axels made to work with your old sbp backing plates and brakes.Who did you buy axels from and what brakes are they for?(10x2 1/2 inch? or 10x1 3/4?)

Have you tried opening the caliper bleeders and let it gravity bleed?Sounds like air in the system or as you said..clogged.

Try a die grinder with a cutoff wheel.Just cut it off and replace.Been there with recessed Weld Racing rims/lug nuts.Now that was a chore LOL.

How old are your flex lines?Even though they might look good on the outside,they swell on the inside.Just a thought.Good luck.

You can buy an adjustable push rod from Mancinis or just weld a piece in to the one you have.This is what I,ve done anyway.Make sure to measure the distance from peddle mount to the master.Good luck

I use Dot 5 in my race car(fenderwell hedders),I,ve never had any problems.

Cut the 9/16 off your original rod and weld it on the adjustable.Just my 2 cents.:D

Josh,when I did my minitub I also cut off the brackets.I just rewelded them back in place.Just make sure you place them correct for rearend travel(up/down):D

It could be an older LBP "B-body" rearend with the original A-body 1 3/4 drums drilled for LBP?

Grab the proportioning valve(disc brake)also the master cylinder as it will be for disc,not drum brakes.:thumblef:

The hose on top in the pic is for your front brakes.I,d buy a hose with the block already on it,one less place to leak and can be bolted down with the vent bolt.JMO

I,m betting there,s a hole in your boosters diaphram.JMO

I had the same problem with my 68 Barracuda.It ended up having a hole in the diaphram in the booster.I had it replaced,brakes are all good now(power assist drums).:D