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A little pricey. Engine Factory 318 Mopar Engine 350 Horsepower 400 Torque |

Found just a mall sliver of rubber that came loose from the front of the '65 Formula S harmonic balancer. I wonder if this is a serious symptom or just something due to the outer edge having been exposed to the elements for a long time?

I had the 318 in my '65 Formula S rebuilt by a local shop, but I don't remember seeing the combustion chamber shape at the time (more than ten years ago) Cylinder heads were change by a previous owner (and the block obviously) and are not original to the vehicle. Just wondering what i have...

Do all 273, 318, 340, 360 LA motors share the same fuel pump eccentric? I'm surprised that used ones don't show more wear than they do. Thank you.

After replacing timing chain cover on the 318, the only way I could figure to torque down the crank bolt was to insert a brake adjusting tool into one of the two harmonic balancer slots and wedge the tool against the little brace that goes from the center of the K-Member to the radiator clip...

I measured the circumference of my 318 balancer which worked out to 22 5/8" or 22 10/16" or 22 times 16 plus 10 = 362 sixteenths of an inch. Round off 362 to 360 and divide by 360 = 1. So each degree approximates 1/16" which makes it real easy. So I can make various timing marks on the balancer...

Back in the 1970's I trusted a machine shop to do some decent work for me on small block Mopars in Salinas, California. In 2005, I returned to the same shop to drop off a 318 for a stock rebuild. This week I find the timing cover is pitting, resulting in a coolant leak around the water pump...

Nothing is easy any longer (or sacred). I see my new small block timing cover "hole" for the crank/seal is about 1/2" larger in diameter than installed timing cover (2 1/2" vs 3"). Do I need to search for an identical timing cover or will this "new" one work/fit? Thank you.

What's the best/easiest why to pull the harmonic balancer in order to replace a leaky timing cover (coolant leak around water pump bolt from cavitation wearing out the aluminum)? All the drive train components (904 torqueflite, starter, drive shaft, motor) are installed and ready to go (darn...

I know this is a mysterious but common problem and wanted to document my personal experience (for all posterity) with the bolt that serves to hold the bracket to adjust the alternator on one end and also serves to secure the water pump. The subject powerplant is a circa 1980 318 block that was...

I just remembered today having drilled a series of drain-back holes in the '65 273 block that I ran in my bracket racer. They would have been placed between each pair of lifters in that little spot where a small amount of oil tends to sit and puddle. I also had painted the interior of the block...

I am going nuts trying to find a reference, photo, or video on what a complete '65 Abody Federal power steering pump looks like with all its brackets/hardware (and how to affix it to the motor). Pictured is what I have found so far (took the motor out two years ago and just now trying to put it...

The previous owner used a hodgepodge method of mounting the alternator (see photos #1 & #2). I found some brackets in my stash pile and am trying to correct the mess (see photo #3). I think I have it all figured out (see photos #4 & #5) except for the gap between the alternator and the slotted...

Sometimes the simplest procedures soon turn into a bigger deal than one could ever imagine. This 318 was rebuilt by a "reputable" machine shop that had been in business for over 40 years (I am not placing the blame on this idiosyncrasy on anyone by the way). My mission was simply to repaint it...

1) My 1966 intake manifold shows a casting number of 2536563 (foto #1). Found a post on FABO (was obviously cut and paste) shows a casting number of 2536536 (last two numbers switched; see foto #2). Is that just a typo or do I own an intake manifold not listed on the chart? 2) MY 1966 intake...

Just going to try a different oil pan on the '65 Formula S (now 318) because the steering link wants to punch a hole in it.

Trying to identify this bracket which I believe is Mopar related. All I could find is the word "top". Thank you.

My 318 (1979 block casting) was rebuilt 10 years ago and runs great. I have no idea what the combustion chambers look like in the cylinder heads she uses. I know the valve size must be 1.78"/1.50" but curious about the combustion chambers. If anyone has a similar head casting laying around, I...

Removed all the oil pan bolts. In the process, I found one loose which was located in the center of the oil pan area. When I got ready to clean them up, I also found one was longer than the all the others (photo #1). I don't know if the longer one was the loose one or not. I do know, the longer...

I took the original rocker arms and shafts off my '65 Signet convertible to be rebuilt for another motor (340) so it had been sitting for awhile. Finally purchased a used set of 273 adjustable rockers with shafts (to replace those I removed) and put those on to get it runnin' again. However...

How do I identify the correct oil pan for my '65 Formula S and '65 Signet convertible? I notice some oil pans have factory 3 digit numbers on the sump. Do all factory Mopar oil sumps have a number like that? I have a couple of "394" oil pans here in storage. I know from experience the steering...

This motor was running (idled rough) when I removed the rocker arms/shafts and sent them to rocker arms unlimited. Vehicle has been parked for over a year. Now I have a used set of rocker arms/shafts I was preparing to install today when I noticed the pushrods from intake valves #6 and #7 are...

I am finding the oil hole exiting the adjusting screw on the old factory 273 adjustable rocker arms comes in two diameters. They appear to be identical otherwise. I suspect the reason may be a difference between intake and exhaust rocker arms, but I have not seen that discussed anywhere that I...

The rocker shaft (on top in fotos) I borrowed that had used springs for spacers instead of the more common rings has a different oil hole orientation when compared to the hold down bolts. The hole diameter is obviously much larger as well. A previous owner could have enlarged the holes...

There are so many out there (even aluminum) it gets confusing pretty quick reading the article. I hope there are no exams coming up anytime soon. How to Build Mopar Engines for Performance: The Block Guide - Mopar DiY

I don't have a dent puller, so I picked up some scraps in the back yard and made one. Used the hand truck as the solid base I banged the lever, screw, and washer against. All four popped right out. (drilled a small hole in the plug first so I could start the screw).

I purchased a complete second-hand set of 273 adjustable rocker arms, shafts, spacers, bolts and washers for my '65 Valiant Signet Convertible (the set on the convertible I removed and "borrowed" for another motor rebuild). While getting ready to clean up and install them on the convertible, I...

I have not seen the SB high performance exhaust manifolds equipped/offered with the sheet metal thing that provides warm air to the air cleaner. Did the factory use them and, if so, where are they? Thank you.

When i disassembled the used 340 (the bores were .040 over and crank .010 under) i found one (and only one) rod bearing had a single deep groove/cut 360 degrees through it. Don't have a foto at the moment, but I am now beginning to think this may have been the fault of not having polished around...

Is there an online reference to explain all the ins and outs of Mopar LA block motor mounting tabs? I have three motors with three different arrangements! There must be a bunch of different factory brackets out there, too. The 318 block I am looking at (casting date 12/04/79) has: On driver...