8.8 rear in my A-body. I cant be the first!

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4mulaSvaliant

4mulaSvaliant

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Ok, so my options have led me to the 8.8 Ferd rear diff.
The gear choices are good, they can be found with disc brakes, and limited slip, fairly commonly.
The width is 60" flange to flange so my track changes but I planned on runnig a bigger "Bullit" style rim anyhow. This swap also bumps me into the big bolt pattern wheels as well.
Im thinking I may move the springs to the frame as well, to gain ever more room for a wheel tire combo.


I cant be the first to have done this guys! This rear has become very common to use among Jeep guys because of the disc brakes and the fact that its a fairly tough rear dif.

Anyone have any POSITIVE stuff to say! LOL
Thanks!!!!:cheers:
 
I have not done it, but researched it a little. Ford explorer 8.8 is offset. I believe the pass side is longer. From what I have heard, cut the pass side to the same length as the drivers side, and get another drivers side axle. Of course, the spring pads need to be welded in the right place for your spring set up. Explorer 8.8's are abundant right now because of cash for clunkers, and most have 3.73 gears. 95-up are disc brake as well.
Good luck!
 
I have one in my '64, the swap was easy and cheap. just make sure you get the extra drivers side axle, spring plates, u-bolts, and pick up the adapter for the driveshaft. the tubes are 3-1/4 instead of the usual 3" so look out when you order up the new spring perches. depending on the level of hp you may also want to look into welding the tubes to the housing and getting c-clip eliminators.
 
Thx for the info!!! Always good to compare your ideas to someone who has it completed!
HP shouldn't be a real issue. My 360 is nearly stock, just a cam and eddy top end. Nothing special.
Again, Thanks!!!!
 
My Pop has a 64 Rambler with a Ford 8.8 out of a 92 Ranger in it and I measured it and it is within a half an inch drum to drum of being perfect for an A-body. Only thing you'd need to do is whack off the Ford mounts and weld on spring perches.
 
I picked one up early last year with the same thoughts in mind. Factory limited slip, disc brakes, and a 3:73 ratio for ~$200. You can't beat that. Those are 17x10.5" "Bullitt" wheels in the pic below.

The pass side is the shorter side of the axle. Isn't the engine in our a-bodies set to the right?

DSCN0122.jpg
 
jgale said:
I picked one up early last year with the same thoughts in mind. Factory limited slip, disc brakes, and a 3:73 ratio for ~$200. You can't beat that. Those are 17x10.5" "Bullitt" wheels in the pic below.

The pass side is the shorter side of the axle. Isn't the engine in our a-bodies set to the right?

DSCN0122.jpg
Click to expand...

Yes our A-bodies have the engine/trans. offset to the pass side approx. 1-5/8"~1-3/4"

How wide is that axle?
 
camd64 said:
I have one in my '64, the swap was easy and cheap. just make sure you get the extra drivers side axle, spring plates, u-bolts, and pick up the adapter for the driveshaft. the tubes are 3-1/4 instead of the usual 3" so look out when you order up the new spring perches. depending on the level of hp you may also want to look into welding the tubes to the housing and getting c-clip eliminators.
Click to expand...

I'm doing the same swap, what adapter for the driveshaft are you talking about?? I figured thay made a bastard u-joint for the swap, haven't checked into it yet..
 
Very sharp looking unit jgale and great deal!

Heck, I ended up with over a grand in my 8 3/4, and about $200 of it, just for the 373 gears.
 
HemiEd said:
Very sharp looking unit jgale and great deal!

Heck, I ended up with over a grand in my 8 3/4, and about $200 of it, just for the 373 gears.
Click to expand...


Now add a disc brake kit on top of that. That's exactly why I went the Ford Explorer 8.8 route. Parts are cheap for them also.
 
This all sounds good given the fact that 8 3/4 Mopar A body rears are scarce and expensive. I would like to see one of these completely installed and a list of mods and part numbers that were done to get it in and running on an Abody.

John B.
 
jgale said:
Now add a disc brake kit on top of that. That's exactly why I went the Ford Explorer 8.8 route. Parts are cheap for them also.
Click to expand...

No way I'm going with a 8.75 mopar when I have 3 explorer 8.8's laying around.. The one I'm using has a 3.73 locker.. I've got the other short side tube ready to press in the center section and weld up, all my explorer 8.8's had drum brakes, but I have a pair of 8.8 disc brakes I'm going to try and swap onto it...
 
greenhornet said:
I'm doing the same swap, what adapter for the driveshaft are you talking about?? I figured thay made a bastard u-joint for the swap, haven't checked into it yet..
Click to expand...

Take a look at the Explorer 8.8, it has a flat plate adapter for the yoke instead of the usual round saddle. you can either buy the conversion yoke for the usual round one or take the plate adapter off the donor trucks driveshaft.
 
camd64 said:
Take a look at the Explorer 8.8, it has a flat plate adapter for the yoke instead of the usual round saddle. you can either buy the conversion yoke for the usual round one or take the plate adapter off the donor trucks driveshaft.
Click to expand...

I have 4 GT stang driveshafts, I'm putting a 383 with a 727 in my 66-valiant, figured I'd have to make a driveshaft anyways... Thought I might could use stang rear u-joint piece on the new driveshaft...
 
i did it. it has a ton of pinion offset but the driveshaft isnt close to rubbing anything. i think its fine. with new brakes and having the explorer driveshaft end put on my driveshaft, i have 500 into it soup to nuts. i didnt really know where to start trying to find the conversion joint from 7260 to 1330. online i only found more common types, but even they are pretty expensive.
 
To convert 1330 to 7260 (small yoke) use precision # 457

To convert 1330 to 7290 (large yoke) use precision # 458

They cost twice as much as a normal u joint but they work great!
 
How is it that I lost track of my own thread? LOL Lots of great info here guys thanks. Please know that I may contact a few of you to get some better answers.

On a second note: Ill be sure to document the entire build once I get started. Junk yard to install!


Questions:
Are the axle tube just pressed in to these center sections?

Im guessing that you have to cut the pass. side tube down to match the drivers side?
Obviously you have to weld the flange back in place. (true and square!)

So over all you will really be shortening the overall length?

If you leave the yoke adapter on the dif, what u-joint does it use?
from what I gather here... the ford dif, has the round plate at the yoke and has a separate piece that bolts to it that will house a typical u-joint?

I plan to sell my 8-3/4 489 SG to fund this project, but in the mean time, I plan to drop in the good 3:23 open dif I have so I can get rolling again.
Ill be sure to check in here and then when the build begins Ill be sure to document it all!

Thanks guys.
 
i wish i knew that u joint # before i did the swap. the tubes are plug welded like any other rear well other thn banjo type housings. the 8.8 stock width worked for me with the rims i had on my car so i didnt cut it down.
 
some guys like to think outside the box. i skipped the 8 3/4 all together on my 69 dart and went with a dana out of a FORD van. my 67 dart i didnt even consider running the 8 3/4 that was in it, i built a dana for it too, dont know or care what it was from. my duster i had an 8 1/4 then a b body 8 3/4 that i took out to go with the FORD 8.8 rear. im going to use a camaro clutch, i might use a toyota alternator and a chevy fan on it too probably all kinds of other bastard parts.
 
LMAO.... ^^^^ hey man, I dunno about you but I have a budget to worry about. If I can manage my goal cheaper, and sell my 8-3/4 to fund the project thats even better. Not to mention if I pass this 8-3/4 on to a guy doing a resto.... All the better. My car was never a sought aftere car to begin with.
Not only that. There are plenty of difs (dana) for example that were used across brands anyhow.
Blackbetty is another builder on here that has the same mind set. His ride and build are f-in great. Guess what running gear it has! Corvette! Id do it too, if I had the funds.

As stated before. If I can get a lim. slip, Disc brake equipped, fairly tough, rear dif reasy to roll with the gears I want for around 300.00. Why would I blow so much money on rebuilding the 8.75?
At this point it will cost over 300.00 maybe to get it rebuilt (if Im lucky) then to get a disc brake set up for the rear is at least 600.00 WTF?
My car is no $80,000.00, hell it isnt a $10,000 car, so spending close to or over 1000.00 on just the rear dif is stupid to me.
 
ahhh some people are just afraid of change. hey its not for everyone , then again neither is hot rodding. i guess some people like the way these cars rolled off the line.
 
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