Advantages of a stroker for daily driver

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IDK about the computer being removed from the HEMI, but I would keep it and just upgrade my fuel pump to one that is callable. It would be Soooo worth it in a big way!
You would be a set of headers, cam swap and a computer flashing/upgrade (can use stock computer) for a massive HP gain. I mean massive!
 
the second article .... read it closely it has everything you need to do listed. and has part numbers Mopar sells some of the stuff for the swap
 
5.7 = 345.6 cubes = 3.58/3.92
6.1 = 378.1 cubes = 3.58/4.10

Due note the bore and stroke peoples. Look like you seen this combo before from our "LA" engines, on the stroke for cheap.....

318 (3.91 stock bore) with 360 crank....
340+ .060 overbore with a 360 crank....

These are real old school strokers before times got good for us.
 
Do a search on this subject because it has been done before and documented on this site.
 
When I checked about using an overdrive 500 in my 50 Merc, I found that the early 500's only had one or possible two (can't remember) wires that controlled the on off of the overdrive, and they didn't have the lockup converter, but you have to have a switch to turn it on or off in the car because it is normally controlled by the trucks computer, I don't remember what the other wire was for, but it wasn't for the overdrive, it was for reverse lights or neutral safety or something, it's been a long time since I had the tranny sitting here, I decided to use a 4spd in the car so I sold it.

The cruise control switch is just to turn the overdrive off when you hit the brakes or slow down, not anything to do with cruise control itself. Several of the Street Rodders I talked to about it said they just use a toggle switch to turn the overdrive on or off, but I thought using a toggle to turn it off would be a hassle and I figured a way to have it turn off when you tapped the brakes by using a cruise control switch, it would also be safer.

A500 overdrive (derived from the 904 based automatics) had a lockup converter from it's inception in 1988, however the A518 overdrive (727 based) did not receive a lockup converter until 1992.
 
As much as I love a hemi I think I need to stick with a 360 a hemi swap is way to much for me.

Just picking up a motor/transmission won't cut it unless you've got a complete parts car to swap out all the mechanicals necessary for a V8 and a place to do it. Mindful of your statement of the part time job, you are far better off trading off your car for a small block based one, or just going with a hairdryer on the slant as you get time and knowledge.
 
I think this will solve all of your problems [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9XAC-BvUyo"]Shonky and the SoundRacer V8 - YouTube[/ame]

The engine you want to build will attract the wrong side of the law and will have trouble keeping up with a K car.
 
A500 overdrive (derived from the 904 based automatics) had a lockup converter from it's inception in 1988, however the A518 overdrive (727 based) did not receive a lockup converter until 1992.


You are correct, it's been over 10 years since I was going to do it and my memory isn't the best anymore, most of the info I got was for the 518 conversion and I forgot the converter difference.


I like the conversion kit that was shown in an earlier post, if it was available 10 years ago, I would have went with the 500 instead of selling it.
 
Ok so I am getting a 318 because I found a good 318 for cheap. I will run the 318 while I save you and build a mean 360.Any tip on raising the comp on a 318 like shaving the heads. I don’t want to replace the positions yet so I will wait on that.
 
You're probably going to ignore this because you're young and it's not what you want to hear, but here goes: You need to spend some time tuning and working on the slant six in your car so that you can learn the basics. Get it running perfectly and efficiently without hot-rodding it, THEN move on to engine swaps.

You don't own a late model Honda. Working on old cars (to me at least) is not about shopping for parts online and impressing your friends and disturbing your neighbors with a loud, obnoxious exhaust note. It's about developing skills and a knowledge base so you can make informed decisions about your car and your goals within your extremely limited budget.

Once, we were all young like you with similar goals, but at the rate you're going you're going to end up with an undriveable car, give up, and move on to something else (like a newer Honda or a pickup) and start over. Most guys your age do.

Slow down, work with what you have for now, and soak up all of the knowledge and experience you can. If you don't have the skills to tune a slant, you're not going to be able to do an effective engine swap. Focus on perfecting the car/engine that you already own.

Most of us dream about what our cars could be, but you have to start with a good foundation, which you just don't have right now.

Good luck.
 
all right this is a easy one go to the junk yard buy a 360 out of a 2000 or newer ram truck get a air gap intake cheap piece 650 carb i don't care hows. youmight even score a tranny cheap that is a good combo i think this is what your after once set up you will be close to 300hp or a little more run low test fuel and your good to go and a cheap set of headers stroker are a lot of fun and do last a long time but are not cheap to build sounds like you on budget this my thoughts and for a guy starting out a good set up not to many issues with this set up and u can get parts any wear .
 
You're probably going to ignore this because you're young and it's not what you want to hear, but here goes: You need to spend some time tuning and working on the slant six in your car so that you can learn the basics. Get it running perfectly and efficiently without hot-rodding it, THEN move on to engine swaps.

You don't own a late model Honda. Working on old cars (to me at least) is not about shopping for parts online and impressing your friends and disturbing your neighbors with a loud, obnoxious exhaust note. It's about developing skills and a knowledge base so you can make informed decisions about your car and your goals within your extremely limited budget.

Once, we were all young like you with similar goals, but at the rate you're going you're going to end up with an undriveable car, give up, and move on to something else (like a newer Honda or a pickup) and start over. Most guys your age do.

Slow down, work with what you have for now, and soak up all of the knowledge and experience you can. If you don't have the skills to tune a slant, you're not going to be able to do an effective engine swap. Focus on perfecting the car/engine that you already own.

Most of us dream about what our cars could be, but you have to start with a good foundation, which you just don't have right now.

Good luck.


My /6 is running great (knock on wood) I have done alot to it.
But its not just me I have my dad who know also about car helping
me.
 
all right this is a easy one go to the junk yard buy a 360 out of a 2000 or newer ram truck get a air gap intake cheap piece 650 carb i don't care hows. youmight even score a tranny cheap that is a good combo i think this is what your after once set up you will be close to 300hp or a little more run low test fuel and your good to go and a cheap set of headers stroker are a lot of fun and do last a long time but are not cheap to build sounds like you on budget this my thoughts and for a guy starting out a good set up not to many issues with this set up and u can get parts any wear .


Well I found a good 318 that the guy SAID was rebuild a year ago.He said you can drive the car it is in is is a mild build motor and all I am going to go is put a set of headers on it and a whiplash cam/accesses.

I am going to wait till I get older and get a new car for a daily driver once I have a career and build a bad to the bone 360 or may be a 440.
 
OK now you're talking. Nearly stock 318, Whiplash 318 cam (HUG HMC1326AL-9), dual plane intake, Mopar electronic ignition, small tube headers, 2.5 in dual exhaust, Edelbrock 600 performer or 650 AVS carb.
If you go with the the performer 600 use the 1405 manual choke carburetor with the 9966 electric choke kit. The 1400 electric choke carburator is calibrated too lean. (this came right out of Herb McCandless's mouth)
You will probably need at least a 3.55 or lower gear and a mild converter to help with that cam.

That my friend will be a fun little machine. You will have a ball building and driving it.
 
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