FI recommendation for 360 Dart

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SGBARRACUDA

ROY
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Ok, so I have had it with having to rebuild the 600 Edelbrock carb from it sitting for a while. I have rebuilt it no less than 6 times over the years. I’m looking for a Fuel Injection set up that is easy to install and dependable. Car is a69 360 Dart with AC,PS, PB, 727. Has. A mild cam 2.02 J heads, roller rockers,Ld340 , with 3.23 gears. Maybe 300-350 HP. Car needs a new tank so I figure now would be a good time to change to FI.
 
At this point in time I don't think any aftermarket units are that dependable. I had 2 throttle barrel F.I. on a gen 2 Hemi and got stuck with it after 2 years and 1400 miles. Had to have car flat bedded home for no start. Sent unit back and ECU was bad. Put 2 4 barrel carbs and running good. I was lost with the no start hot, it started next day cold but again not hot. This was my experience with F.I. and so disappointed with it. I have 05 Ram with 5.7 and F.I. in it and has been flawless for 15 years. So why can't aftermarket be that reliable? I'm sure other people have had success with them but so far I'm not one of them.
 
I used FItech on both my Scamp and also on my 1979 D150, Installation was pretty easy and straight forward and there tech support was pretty good. What I would recommend is doing your research on the installation of any kit you buy because from me talking to various aftermarket fuel injection makers (Holley, FITech) the vast majority of problems seem to come from people doing less than stellar installations, An example of this is in the instructions from my FITech kit, It has a whole page of what not to do during installation of there kits to include and I am not kidding (do not use house Romex or house wire nuts), and to be fair I do feel that retrofitting FI on to our old Mopars is still a hit or miss proposition but as more and more company's are doing the R&D to make there respective systems more robust/reliable they are getting better. For me it all boils down to how well you do the installation, take your time and do it right the first time. Good luck and hope this helps

P.S. if you are replacing your tank please check out a company called Tanks.inc they make a direct fit tank with the cutouts for an in tank fuel pump.
 
Seems like after 35 years MOL. The aftermarket FI would be better than what it is. I’ve been waiting for 20 years for a simple dependable kit. After reading and researching I’m not sure I will see it in my lifetime.
 
I'm going with the Holley Sniper and Hyperspark system on my 340. Will be some time before it is running.
Holley has very good tech support and on-line forum. I've seen reports that FiTech is not very good at customer support, but no first hand knowledge.
I'm also using Tanks Inc 1967-70 Dodge Dart / 1967-69 Plymouth Barracuda Fuel Injection Gas Tank
However the hole for the fuel pump needs to be opened up to install the Holley returnless FI pump. 1969 Barracuda 340 Formula S Restoration

Jim
 
I have a buddy who has installed 5 Holley Sniper kits for himself and friends with out issues. One issues carburetors can't overcome is the change in today's fuel to light off far faster. Depending on where you live, you have to have a recirculating system and electric pump to combat vapor lock and boiled bowls. Now I have a carb on my 340 with a mechanical pump and have done everything possible to shield the carb and lines from heat to combat it. I will probably in the next few years give FI a shot. It should be more adaptable to changes in fuel, weather conditions, and elevation.
 
My major complaint was on engine 2 years but only drove 1400 miles before it crapped out.
 
I have a Holley Sniper on my 408. Im using a stock tank with a drop in Holley fuel pump/sending unit. It has performed flawlessly. Ive put about 3000 miles on it so far without any issues at all. I love it.
 
Whatever you get don't spend a boatload and skimp on everything that supports the system and blame your new fancy purchase when it fails.

Things like tank, fuel delivery/return, filter, regulator, wiring, charging, ignition, plugs, grounds, psi gauge, throttle, electrical shielding, etc.

You can drop a chunk of change on any one of the available systems, but it doesn't end there if you want it to be reliable.

Think it through completely from beginning to end, including where everything is going to live and routing of fuel and wiring.

It's not difficult and there's a nice payoff.

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Ok, so I have had it with having to rebuild the 600 Edelbrock carb from it sitting for a while. I have rebuilt it no less than 6 times over the years. I’m looking for a Fuel Injection set up that is easy to install and dependable. Car is a69 360 Dart with AC,PS, PB, 727. Has. A mild cam 2.02 J heads, roller rockers,Ld340 , with 3.23 gears. Maybe 300-350 HP. Car needs a new tank so I figure now would be a good time to change to FI.

A Holley Sniper with a new tank and an internal pump would be a nice setup. I recommend adding the Hyperspark distributor so you can control timing. I've installed a lot of Sniper's over the last few years. We dyno tune them on a regular basis these days. Once you know how to work with them they are very simple to install and tune. I'd recommend the Holley 12-319 fuel pump module. With that module you can use your existing fuel line and you won't need a return line. https://www.holley.com/products/fue...uel_pumps/muscle_car_efi_modules/parts/12-319
 
Hey Roy, good to see your feeling better.
I went with the Fitech 2x4 1200PA system on my 340. I made sure I installed it properly and shielded all the wires. I went with a Walbro 392 inline pump and in 3 years have never had a problem with it. I don't think there is a lot to give between the different makes from what I have read. It all comes down to the install job.

Jack
 
I installed a FiTech FI unit on the Coronet during the resto. Been struggling with the system going on five years now. This winter I'm going back to a carb. In the five years that it's been on the road, the fuel pump in the Fuel Command Center died, requiring a flatbed tow; I then installed a Tanks Inc electric pump. The ECU in the TB died, fortunately I was coming up my driveway at the time. FiTech replaced the TB unit under warranty. About 6 months ago the hand held controller died and a "new and improved" controller costs $200. Through all this I still haven't been able to tune out a hot no-start issue.
If you go FI in general, and FiTech specifically, you're going to spend thousands of dollars and hundreds of man hours installing the devices and upgrading your fuel delivery and charging systems. You're going to join a half-dozen forums and scroll through hundreds of pages of threads learning how to tune your "plug and play" FI system. Or you could ditch the old carb, spend $400 on an AV2 and another $60 on a tuning kit and be done.
It depends on what you do with your car. If it's a DD, regularly driven in sub-freezing weather with radical elevation changes, then it might be worth it to go FI. But if its a 2nd or 3rd car driven a couple thousand miles a year around town...
 
I installed a FiTech FI unit on the Coronet during the resto. Been struggling with the system going on five years now. This winter I'm going back to a carb. In the five years that it's been on the road, the fuel pump in the Fuel Command Center died, requiring a flatbed tow; I then installed a Tanks Inc electric pump. The ECU in the TB died, fortunately I was coming up my driveway at the time. FiTech replaced the TB unit under warranty. About 6 months ago the hand held controller died and a "new and improved" controller costs $200. Through all this I still haven't been able to tune out a hot no-start issue.
If you go FI in general, and FiTech specifically, you're going to spend thousands of dollars and hundreds of man hours installing the devices and upgrading your fuel delivery and charging systems. You're going to join a half-dozen forums and scroll through hundreds of pages of threads learning how to tune your "plug and play" FI system. Or you could ditch the old carb, spend $400 on an AV2 and another $60 on a tuning kit and be done.
It depends on what you do with your car. If it's a DD, regularly driven in sub-freezing weather with radical elevation changes, then it might be worth it to go FI. But if its a 2nd or 3rd car driven a couple thousand miles a year around town...
Don’t candy coat it. Tell me how you really feel! lol l very rarely drive my cars. I have tried running non ethanol, additives, and still the Edelbrock 1406 gets clogged up and I wind up R&R the damn thing and rebuilding it. I’m just tired of it.
 
Well, I don't have a dog in the hunt, as I'll very likely never go EFI, BUT I do have some practical experience since working with Matt. He's done several. He uses the Holley Sniper. Every single one without fail has returned not running right. We've both tried to figure them out and have had very little success. I do know that every time I jump in the Valiant with its little 170 and Carter one barrel, it has not failed to start and run great. That's my story and I'm stickin to it.

I know guys have had great success with all types of EFI. I "guess" maybe the difference might be that the people who've had those successes had the money up front to do every little thing top notch to achieve those results. The right tank, the right pump.....all the proper accessories.

I do admit though, I looked at that link Andy provided (thank you Andy) and read about the pumps that you can just install right into the original tank without the worry or trouble if a return system. That's somewhat appealing and it got the wheels turning a little.
 
I have been running an Edelbrock 1406 and 1405 on a Gen 2 Hemi for almost 10 years now and never had a problem with those carbs since day 1. Either your filter isn't doing it's job or you just get s---t fuel. And I have no choice but to use the ethanol crap.
 
Roy I’ve been running the Holly sniper just over 2 years 10k since the install , just switched over to timing control the last few weeks as I had it as a stand alone unit , has ran flawlessly in that time but I did run into some RFI issues last week where my distributor trigger wire crossed over my monitor cable and was causing some weird crap causing the car to shut off @idle intermittently. Fixed that issue and has been great and im surprised on how smooth it runs with the control timing . I use the 6AL box and the msd 8534 Distributor . With the msd set up there’s a little more involved with the phasing side of it but it’s not too hard and it’s more prone to RFI due to mag setup compare to Hall effect with the Hyperspark easier to set up.Tanks inc tank with Walbro pump sender unit . It’s a great unit but I’m not a fan with the ecu built in the front of the throttle body and is acceptable to RFI which can cause havoc. Your better off spending a little more and stepping up on the Terminator X as the ecu is separated from the throttle body and can be fitted in the cabin, just a better unit with much better options in you want to spray or run induction. Over all it’s a good entry level unit and really runs well if your prepared to take your time in setting it up meaning running the wiring loom properly and taking the correct steps and take Note *read the bloody manual over and over and don’t believe it’s a plug and play unit.Do not use the external pump supplied do it properly with the in tank pump . Sorry mate long post just wanted to share it with you so you know what your up against. Sorry just to add as mentioned above you will need to step up on the Alternator as well as your stocky one will struggle .
 
I believe most problems with aftermarket EFI are not from the product itself, but usually installation issuses such as EMI/ RFI. It is imperative that you spend time properly routing sensitive wiring. Keep in mind factory stuff fails sometimes, as well.

Holley, FItech has gained some good ground. Holley likely cannot be topped for support in the long run.
 
I believe most problems with aftermarket EFI are not from the product itself, but usually installation issuses such as EMI/ RFI. It is imperative that you spend time properly routing sensitive wiring. Keep in mind factory stuff fails sometimes, as well.

Holley, FItech has gained some good ground. Holley likely cannot be topped for support in the long run.

To be fair, factory stuff has failed MORE than the aftermarket, since factory EFI far outnumbers aftermarket EFI, so your statement is dead on.
 
I have been running an Edelbrock 1406 and 1405 on a Gen 2 Hemi for almost 10 years now and never had a problem with those carbs since day 1. Either your filter isn't doing it's job or you just get s---t fuel. And I have no choice but to use the ethanol crap.
Problem is my cars wind up sitting for longer periods of time than they should Its always the idle circuit that clogs up. Clean it out and it will work good again. But usually I break a gasket so I wind up buying another kit.
 
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Good thing about these new EFI units is that they are made to stand up to the ethanol gas that gives carburetors fits. I have installed & tuned two Holley Sniper units & really like the ease of set up & the tech support they provide. I do know when you buy a Holley unit you need to make sure there is no recent updates that need to be added to the unit you buy.
 
it seems that most of the issues with the efi kits (ateast from what ive read various places) is caused by the installer.
 
I had a Fitech set up in my car and when it failed I went to their Forum and it was common for the ECU to fail. It had nothing to do with installation or any other problem after it left the factory. As I said ran good for 2 years, and then the disappointment when it wouldn't start. I also had 1/2" spacers under the throttle barrels to keep them cooler to no avail.
 
Fitech was known to be cheap junk from almost day one.. some had/have ok luck with it but most got what they paid for.
 
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