Litz
Well-Known Member
Hoping someone can give me some tips on valve lash adjustment on my solid lifter 273 2bbl. No idea where to begin. Thanks in advance, Litz
I need instructions of setting valve lash on 1965 273 2bbl
- Thread starter Litz
- Start date
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pishta
I know I'm right....
setting cold? Try "Iron block with Iron Heads: ADD .002” to Lash Settings"
when it heats up, the lash tightens up to the hot lash recommended by Mopar. Of course, your feelers will check this after a warmup but it should get you in the ballpark. Always better to err on the side of more lash than less.
when it heats up, the lash tightens up to the hot lash recommended by Mopar. Of course, your feelers will check this after a warmup but it should get you in the ballpark. Always better to err on the side of more lash than less.
Last edited:
Dave1967
Cuda crazy
.028" intake. .032" exhaust.
Get yourself a factory service manual for your car. Then, you will have detailed instructions forever in your grasp.
Litz
Well-Known Member
I want to thank all you guys for the info! Litz
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
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Notice in post #3, the instructions say to rotate every 90 degrees. This requires that the balancer be so marked either by a timing tape or by calibrating it.
Alternatively, you can pull out the plugs and find TDC of each successive cylinder in the firing order by Feeling it come up on a clean screwdriver. Do not stick anything in that hole that can break!,lol. You will have to pull the screwdriver out as the piston comes up, or it will jam.
Alternatively, you can stick a tight fitting hose just inside the plughole, and put the other end in between your teeth; then rotate the engine and feel the air coming into your mouth.When it stops blowing and sucks your tongue in, stop, back up, you are there.
Alternatively, you can watch the rocker arms on the cylinder that is exactly 1 turn further along in the firing order. When the two valves are just off their seats, the one opening and the other closing,bam, you are there.
Alternatively; posts 2 and 5 will get you there.
When sticking the feelers in there, use the very narrow kind. There may be grooves that have been worn in the rocker arms by the valve stems.The wide feelers will span across the groove and give a false reading.
Everybody says to set the valves on a fully warmed up engine. Good luck with that.
By the time you have pulled out all the plugs, removed the valve covers,etc, the engine is no longer warm. Then, from the time you start adjusting the first valve, until the time you have finished the last one, the engine will be well into it's cooling cycle. Go back and start over. If the first one or two cylinders are still where you set them ,then you are good to go.If they are not, check a few more.
On my slanty, it takes particularly long to get the cover off, and my balancer is marked. I still don't use the fully warmed up method.I determined a long time ago what the lash difference was from normal running temp to ambient temp in my garage,( about 65*F), and now do bi-annual checks at 65*. Sometimes every third year. Or on the 4th. Yeah I've had her a long,long,long, awful-long time; 23 years.
Alternatively, you can pull out the plugs and find TDC of each successive cylinder in the firing order by Feeling it come up on a clean screwdriver. Do not stick anything in that hole that can break!,lol. You will have to pull the screwdriver out as the piston comes up, or it will jam.
Alternatively, you can stick a tight fitting hose just inside the plughole, and put the other end in between your teeth; then rotate the engine and feel the air coming into your mouth.When it stops blowing and sucks your tongue in, stop, back up, you are there.
Alternatively, you can watch the rocker arms on the cylinder that is exactly 1 turn further along in the firing order. When the two valves are just off their seats, the one opening and the other closing,bam, you are there.
Alternatively; posts 2 and 5 will get you there.
When sticking the feelers in there, use the very narrow kind. There may be grooves that have been worn in the rocker arms by the valve stems.The wide feelers will span across the groove and give a false reading.
Everybody says to set the valves on a fully warmed up engine. Good luck with that.
By the time you have pulled out all the plugs, removed the valve covers,etc, the engine is no longer warm. Then, from the time you start adjusting the first valve, until the time you have finished the last one, the engine will be well into it's cooling cycle. Go back and start over. If the first one or two cylinders are still where you set them ,then you are good to go.If they are not, check a few more.
On my slanty, it takes particularly long to get the cover off, and my balancer is marked. I still don't use the fully warmed up method.I determined a long time ago what the lash difference was from normal running temp to ambient temp in my garage,( about 65*F), and now do bi-annual checks at 65*. Sometimes every third year. Or on the 4th. Yeah I've had her a long,long,long, awful-long time; 23 years.
Here's a link to the Field Service Manual. Worth downloading. Like others have said, better slightly loose, than slightly tight! A little noise when cold is OK!
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
pishta
I know I'm right....
What lash difference did you come up with?
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 24,947
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.003
That is to say the factory lash is .010/.020
I set them to .013/.023 at about 68*F give or take, to get that hot setting.
The ol' slanty is pretty sensitive on the intake side. .010 at 68* was too tight, she wouldn't idle right once warmed up.
On the exhaust side she was not sensitive ; running just fine at .003 too tight, that is to say .017 hot.
That is to say the factory lash is .010/.020
I set them to .013/.023 at about 68*F give or take, to get that hot setting.
The ol' slanty is pretty sensitive on the intake side. .010 at 68* was too tight, she wouldn't idle right once warmed up.
On the exhaust side she was not sensitive ; running just fine at .003 too tight, that is to say .017 hot.
pishta
I know I'm right....
good stuff Bro. Save the Slants!
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