The piston number indicates that it’s a 60 over. Can it still be cleaned up/bored or is 60 over maxed out? If it can be bored what is the next piston size up?
ID’ing my pistons and crank
- Thread starter 340inabbody
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I do t know of bigger than .060 overs for the 318. They could be out there.
If it needs to be honed to save it you can coat the pistons with Line2Line’ abradable coating.
IIRC they can add up to .020 on diameter.
I coat every piston I can. With that coating the piston runs at near zero clearance. Ring seal is remarkably better.
Doing that is cheaper than getting a different block, new pistons and all the rest of the work.
I just got around to cleaning and inspecting the piston. It’s actually a 0.030 over. Walls look good.
Is the cam grind number stamped on the end of the came here? If I pop the plug should I be able to read it?
It depends. Sometimes it’s on the other end but it should be on that end of the cam.
NOT AGAIN. There are two styles of cam corks. That's installed BACKWARDS. If it's even right for the the year of your block.
Rear expansion plug of rear cam shaft question.
Rear expansion plug of rear cam shaft question.
Then I guess I shouldn’t be concerned about removing it. Oh and it’s a 70 block. I assume that the attached thread is for all small block LA’s?
Stupid question but how do you normally pop these out? I really don’t want to drill a hole in the center of it and pull it out that way, but maybe that’s the only easy way to do it. Apparently mine is in backwards as well?.
Got it popped off. Nothing printed here.
Time to pull the timing cover!
Man this thing looks new. Maybe I should just use it while I rebuild my 340….
to be clear the Harmonic balancer is for an internally balance engine regardless of cast or forged crank, and as mentioned before the balancer is drilled to balance the balancer only.
The whole thing looks pretty damned fresh from the pictures...
Are small block timing gears always set up like the above? Ie 12:00 to 12:00?
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
Yes, both dots at 12 is #1 TDC compression.
I would agree it makes sense that the damper should be 0 balance for an internally balanced rotating assy.
Two questions:
1. Are you thinking the bore is not straight? Can you elaborate on where you see the scoring? I can take better pictures of the area to examine further.
2. Do the holes in the damper seem remotely reasonable for damper balancing or highly excessive? Seems excessive to me for just the cast damper assy but I have very limited experience.
Thank you
Look at the picture in post#14. To me it looks like there is an interference fit at the bottom of that bore (probably more than one) causing scoring. The bores are fine. If you just hone the cylinders the main caps must be torqued, otherwise the bores will not be round when you put the engine together. The bores go slightly oval and can pinch the piston at the bottom of it's travel.
The damper is fine.
The damper is fine.
Gotcha when I get back home Il take a closer look and take some more pictures and post. Thank you for taking the time to really look at this and comment.
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