My First Engine Build - 360 Help

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DNasty777 said:
Ok, I dropped the everything off at the machine shop and talked to the guy there. The block will be hot tanked, pressure checked, rough bored .03X over, decked, and align honed. He is going to stop there so I can decide which direction to go.

JBurch, the crank does need to be turned, I don't think I'm lucky enough to make out with the rods either. Price wise I'll end up paying close to only $400 more for a stroker kit.

J Par, you where exactly right, now I need to decide if I want to reuse the stock rods and crank, paying to have the machine work done to them, or just go with a stroker kit. Do you by chance know what your stock heads cc'd at?
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Okay this is exactly what I was talking about. I too now have small 596heads 1.88-1.60 . I to this year just put all the money into the bottom end . Now I have a solid foundation to expand on in the years to come as I get money I'm still doing 11 second quarter miles at the race track as we speak. It's nice not to have it all done at once or you might get bored of it quickly. I seen you are asking about refurbishing the rods and such again I believe for my $1400 I got a 4 inch scat crank , scat I-beams, icon forged flat tops with total seal rings and king bearings. I felt where I was really making out by getting the kit was those icon forged flat top pistons they were so sweet! And a far cry from the cast keith blacks you were considering earlier!? The I-beams come with arp bolts. And speaking of ARP bolts I used them for my heads and my flywheel for my 4 speed that's the only place I felt the necessity for them. when I asked about them for my main caps my engine builder laughed and said this isn't a Chevy ! I've never seen a Mopar break now not to say it can't happen, they're very high grade from the factory. I can not tell you how happy I am with this foundation!
 
Oh yeah and one more thing, buy all your parts yourself. Do not let your machine shop buy parts as they will just mark up the parts. I can go through my bill from my machine shop and see where everything's been jacked up about 10 or 15 percent and over the long haul of the bill that could have saved a couple hundred dollars at least. And always and I mean always ask summit to price match the cheapest place you can find on the internet and they will. Just today I got a new harmonic balancer that they wanted $95 for and I found it on some Google search for $70 and they price matched it and sent it to my front door coming tomorrow for $65 always ask them to match the lowest price you can find on the internet and they will. And that's just one thing of many. Still interested in your final decision, and again this is what worked for my budget. What works for yours may be completely different . Have fun ! !
 
Thanks j par!

Well I guess I just pulled the trigger on the stroker kit. Yikes, the financial planners are going to hate me this month. I went with the forged flat top, internal balance kit.

Builder called today, said the block is now sitting in the hot tank. He'll call after the tank job and he tests the block.
 
DNasty777 said:
Thanks j par!

Well I guess I just pulled the trigger on the stroker kit. Yikes, the financial planners are going to hate me this month. I went with the forged flat top, internal balance kit.

Builder called today, said the block is now sitting in the hot tank. He'll call after the tank job and he tests the block.
Click to expand...

Please remember this "FACT" : you will not remember one penny of the build when you first mash that loud pedal down ! You'll be thinking - holly crap!! :D
witch brand ? More details please .
For some people a purchase like this is like just pitching a nickel out the window of the car, no big deal. but for some of us its a large undertaking and I know it was for me and it made me nervous yet excited at the same time. I could probably post pictures of every last part, because I was so excited each time something new came to the door. So far i would have probably just took a little more time and bought more quality parts to go around the quality motor because this motor your building will find the weak spots even if its something like what I just bought the new harmonic balancer.
 
Ok so I already have a fel-pro gasket set The rest of my list is as follows:

- MP il pump driveshaft
- MP HV oil pump
- Jet performance 180* t-stat
- Milodon HV water pump
- Freeze plugs
- pushrods of proper length, still have to measure for this
- Lifters, springs, and timing set if they don't come with the cam

I'm going to have the stock heads hot tanked and have new valve seals installed. But now I'm back to the question of what cam to run.
 
2 things. Sent rusty rat rod $10 and a couple cam choices and he will run a dynamite desktop dyno for you and toss in30 years experience with any build improvements he might recommend. I did and found 50 extra hp with his recommendations. Also talk to Mike at MRL. He made a fantastic Lunati cam recommendation for me so I bought the cam and some other parts from him.
 
Here's a link to a good deal for some of the basic parts in a kit that make them cheaper. If you are going to go stroker, ignore the C & D kits, but you can get a good deal on the A & B kits with crank & rod bearings, Fel-Pro or Federal Mogul complete teardown gasket kit (with permatorque head gaskets), and rings for $200.

http://www.manciniracing.com/enrebkit.html
 
krazykuda said:
Here's a link to a good deal for some of the basic parts in a kit that make them cheaper. If you are going to go stroker, ignore the C & D kits, but you can get a good deal on the A & B kits with crank & rod bearings, Fel-Pro or Federal Mogul complete teardown gasket kit (with permatorque head gaskets), and rings for $200.

http://www.manciniracing.com/enrebkit.html
Click to expand...

If I'm not mistaken I think he already pulled the trigger on the kit?
 
DNasty777 said:
Ok so I already have a fel-pro gasket set The rest of my list is as follows:

- MP il pump driveshaft
- MP HV oil pump
- Jet performance 180* t-stat
- Milodon HV water pump
- Freeze plugs
- pushrods of proper length, still have to measure for this
- Lifters, springs, and timing set if they don't come with the cam

I'm going to have the stock heads hot tanked and have new valve seals installed. But now I'm back to the question of what cam to run.
Click to expand...
That is a very very big question! a lot of it can be answered with what your main purpose of the cars for? I personally talked to Ken at Oregon cam running ( in Washington lol) we talk for sometime and decided on a cam that would work best for my application which is kind of mostly strip old school drag racing. The one thing about Oregon cam grinding is they took my cam an old hydraulic purple performance cam and ground into a solid lifter cam which is achieved by undercutting and thus needing longer push rods. I've got my push rods from Smith Brothers also in Oregon. I ensure you there's not many on the forum that would argue with organ cam grinding and definitely no one who would argue with smith brothers for push rods. please do take some long hard look at what you're going to do with the car and what your hopes and dreams are for the car because the cam will mean a lot to those aspirations. A lot of people and professionals will say the stroker will eat duration and you'll probably want a little more duration the normal. But a lot of this also depend on what you're going to use it for and maybe how much vacuum you're going to need to run stuff like power brakes and things like that. My car personally is dragstrip so I have absolutely nothing but motor.
 
You may want to double check on this but when I looked that number up I looked up the same number with jegs and it was $100 cheaper or close to it. I'm sure summit will price match it and I think I do remember getting at least my stroker kit from Jegs, but most things I get from the summit as they have a warehouse in Nevada and are able to get me things within a couple days. a lot of this kind of stuff is drop shipped from Scat themselves. I ordered the .040 over kit which is the 410 stroker. not that I was going to gain anything out of it, I had to be different. If you've already ordered there still may be time for you to get them to price match?
 
69conv said:
2 things. Sent rusty rat rod $10 and a couple cam choices and he will run a dynamite desktop dyno for you and toss in30 years experience with any build improvements he might recommend. I did and found 50 extra hp with his recommendations. Also talk to Mike at MRL. He made a fantastic Lunati cam recommendation for me so I bought the cam and some other parts from him.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't bother Mike right now...hes working on a VERY important project :D

he does seem to know his mopars
 
I got summit to price match an eBay ad, I got it for $1390ish shipped. Should be shipped to me third week of this month. The car has power brakes and it will be a street car. It might see the track once. I think I'll leave the cam choice up to the experts, I'll give MRL a call, right in the middle of diymirage's build of course! :glasses7::D
 
why don't you call him once you got the rotating assembly in from summit ?
that way you can tell him exactly what you got to work with and he can spend this month focusing on "more important" things

who knows...he might have mine on the dyno by then :)
 
If street car I personally would not use a solid lifter cam. I have one but its again for drag racing.
What rearend gear do you have? If you don't have a suregrip you'll need one now- LOL Or something of the sort. Most will say 355's are a good all around gear (and I agree) , but your saying mostly street so I'd recommend 323's. Sometimes though ya just got to roll with what have til you can afford more. Trust me on this one, that new stroker motor WILL find your weak spots. LOL
 
j par said:
If street car I personally would not use a solid lifter cam. I have one but its again for drag racing.
What rearend gear do you have? If you don't have a suregrip you'll need one now- LOL Or something of the sort. Most will say 355's are a good all around gear (and I agree) , but your saying mostly street so I'd recommend 323's. Sometimes though ya just got to roll with what have til you can afford more. Trust me on this one, that new stroker motor WILL find your weak spots. LOL
Click to expand...

I haven't built my 8-3/4 yet so I can still choose whatever gears, I'm thinking 3.55 but I only run a 25.7 inch tire so I might go with 3.23. My mopar friend at work wants me to invest in a hydraulic roller cam setup so I'm also considering that.
 
DNasty777 said:
My mopar friend at work wants me to invest in a hydraulic roller cam setup so I'm also considering that.
Click to expand...
You'll be happier with a roller for several reasons. I'm sure he told ya. I have a hard time siber spending (not that i wasn't thinking roller) i like siber savings ! !
 

j par said:
I ordered the .040 over kit which is the 410 stroker. not that I was going to gain anything out of it, I had to be different. If you've already ordered there still may be time for you to get them to price match?
Click to expand...
Plenty of people go with the .040 over kit when they've got a cherry 340 or their 360 won't clean up well enough. Fairly usual- mine cleaned up for .030 over pistons.

DNasty777 said:
I haven't built my 8-3/4 yet so I can still choose whatever gears, I'm thinking 3.55 but I only run a 25.7 inch tire so I might go with 3.23. My mopar friend at work wants me to invest in a hydraulic roller cam setup so I'm also considering that.
Click to expand...
If you're gonna do any freeway driving at all, you'll not like the 3.55s with that short of tire. Should be well over 3K cruising. Course then if you go OD later, you'll probably want more gear than that to optimize the combo and just have the OD to cruise.
 
Infecteddog said:
If you're gonna do any freeway driving at all, you'll not like the 3.55s with that short of tire. Should be well over 3K cruising. Course then if you go OD later, you'll probably want more gear than that to optimize the combo and just have the OD to cruise.
Click to expand...

You're right, I just ran some calculations online. I'm going to go with 3.23 and eventually change the rears to 27.8" tires on the next set.
 
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