New TCI Streetfighter won‘t shift in 3rd when hot

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jakuzzie

jakuzzie

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Hey, it‘s me again.

Recently bought a new TCI Streetfighter 904.
It shifts in 3rd only when it is cool.
When kickdown is disconnected it does not shift up in 2nd.
It runs with Dexron 3 (filled right according to dipstick).
Kickdown cable is from Mancini Racing and it worked good with the original 904.
Holley sniper installed without a bracket for kickdown (worked on old).

I did everything exactly what the manual told me to do…


Don‘t know what to do now :/

Thanks!
794FE48B-6958-4C6A-9FBB-33CED7634491.jpeg
 
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Worn direct rings or worn direct drum where the rings ride. This is why I always use kits that have the heavy duty aluminum/teflon direct rings.
 
The whole transmission is brand new.
Could I have done any damage to it by using Dexron 3?
 
I've taken apart "brand new" TCI transmissions because they didn't work. They have defects. Fluid isn't the problem. They only use used direct drums in those.
 
So just to be sure I ordered the recommended TCI 950641 transmission oil.

It is much thicker than the Dexron 3.
Like warm honey and water.

First test drive went well so I think the oil solved the issue.. Shifts up and down in every gear.
I will do another test drive when it‘s warmer again just to be sure (at the moment 50°F).

The used Dexron 3 oil smelled like new so I don’t think there is any damage.
 
But if you're having to run what is basically like "STP" in the trans doesn't that ring any alarm bells?
Back in the day that 904 would have called for dexron, at this point dexron II or III wouldn't matter. With dexron fluid each number is backwards compatible with earlier versions. That fluid sounds like a band aid
 
Everybody who knows anything about brands knows the TCI transmissions are CRAP. I agree, if you're having to run a "special" fluid to get it to work, something's WRONG. I wish you luck.
 
Update!: I drove a while and everything was fine and I decided to try the kickdown.

After that the transmission was able to shift in 3rd only when I went completely off the gas.
By touching the gas pedal only a little it shifts down immediately.

Strange :realcrazy:
 
That can be changed by the KD cable. Loosen a bit? I Know you can turn the ferrule out on the hard linkages.
 
I noticed there web site says to use there “Break in Trans fluid” & then there own “Trans fluid” with there transmissions. There probably funny about that and who’s converter you used.

There “Max Shift” fluid is closer to “F Type” fluid.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I noticed there web site says to use there “Break in Trans fluid” & then there own “Trans fluid” with there transmissions. There probably funny about that and who’s converter you used.

There “Max Shift” fluid is closer to “F Type” fluid.
Click to expand...
For break in I used Dexron 3.
I am using a new TCI Streetrodder converter.
 
@ED'S68CUDA ".... The FSM tells you to wire the trans lever all the way forward, adjust the vertical link so the drill bit fits into the alignment holes, and adjust the carb link so the slot barely touches the carb pin. Then, and only then, do you unwire the trans lever, and check that the slotted linkage moves freely forward when you push it back and release it. So, when the carb is at idle, the trans lever is fully forward. When the carb is at WOT, the trans lever is somewhere else but the FSM doesn't say it has to be fully rearward. Where the trans lever is at different throttle positions (other than idle) depends strictly on the geometry of the kickdown linkage bellcranks, levers, etc. The only FSM adjustments are to ensure that when the trans lever is fully forward, (1) the drill bit lines up, and (2) the slotted link engages the carb pin but doesn't apply any pressure to it..."
On my 65, there are 3 rods and 2 bellcranks. Send the kickdown all the way until it stops and let the carb go WOT and adjust so the linkage has no play. Let it relax and it will fall where it may. My 65 did not have a slotted carb rod as it was all engineered for an AFB from the ground up.
 
It won't fall out of third again til it's really hot out and you're on the freeway and you need to get somewhere really really fast...GUARANTEED.
 
Can you post pictures of that?
pishta said:
@ED'S68CUDA ".... The FSM tells you to wire the trans lever all the way forward, adjust the vertical link so the drill bit fits into the alignment holes, and adjust the carb link so the slot barely touches the carb pin. Then, and only then, do you unwire the trans lever, and check that the slotted linkage moves freely forward when you push it back and release it. So, when the carb is at idle, the trans lever is fully forward. When the carb is at WOT, the trans lever is somewhere else but the FSM doesn't say it has to be fully rearward. Where the trans lever is at different throttle positions (other than idle) depends strictly on the geometry of the kickdown linkage bellcranks, levers, etc. The only FSM adjustments are to ensure that when the trans lever is fully forward, (1) the drill bit lines up, and (2) the slotted link engages the carb pin but doesn't apply any pressure to it..."
On my 65, there are 3 rods and 2 bellcranks. Send the kickdown all the way until it stops and let the carb go WOT and adjust so the linkage has no play. Let it relax and it will fall where it may. My 65 did not have a slotted carb rod as it was all engineered for an AFB from the ground up.
Click to expand...
 
No, IIRC those instructions that I quoted are for a specific year(s) but it looks like the drill but just locks the linkage to kickdown position and allows you to then adjust the slotted throttle rod to give WOT.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Did you get that Total Crap Inside removed from the vehicle yet??
Click to expand...
No but I thought about switching valve bodies…

Would the original 904 valve body (which worked in my old trans) fit?
I studied the original service manual and I am going to try this next.

Btw. I adjusted the kickdown cable by the book and installed the recommended bracket.
That can‘t be the problem anymore.
 
Thank you for posting those pics. They are a perfect example of what I've been talking about on here until I'm blue in the face. Look at the right side of both valve bodies; level with the "O" in the towel. Notice how the left vb has an extension to the right (right above the ptk section); whereas the vb on the right has a cut back area in the same section. That cut back area won't cover a casting pocket in the case. It will allow pressure to bleed off. Look at your two cases and you "should" see how the case matches each vb. They DO NOT interchange. But the good news is now you can air test the clutch drums. You could compare the air pressure test between the two trans. Also check how far those drums will move forward and back. Could you please post pics of the cases where the vb bolt on?
 
jakuzzie said:
No but I thought about switching valve bodies…

Would the original 904 valve body (which worked in my old trans) fit?
I studied the original service manual and I am going to try this next.

Btw. I adjusted the kickdown cable by the book and installed the recommended bracket.
That can‘t be the problem anymore.
Click to expand...
Man, you can disagree with it being crap all you want, and not like us saying that, but in the end, we're telling you the truth and that's just trying to help. Rather than disagreeing, maybe you should think about it. This opinion of them has been earned, believe me when I say it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Man, you can disagree with it being crap all you want, and not like us saying that, but in the end, we're telling you the truth and that's just trying to help. Rather than disagreeing, maybe you should think about it. This opinion of them has been earned, believe me when I say it.
Click to expand...

I do not disagree. But I as a foreigner I don‘t have much options.
It was a real battle to buy this problem from summit .
 
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