opinion needed Belt drives ???

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72360scamp

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Hello everyone :cheers: So i'm starting to gather information for my
500ci stroker build-up thats been on the back burner for the last year or so now.. I'm looking for opinion's on this.. Belt drives ? Is there any machine work needed for it to fit and operate correctly? Are belt drives worth the money? Do you have to change the belt often due to stretching ? I'm hoping some on here as used one before and could tell me a little more..
 
Race engine or street engine? Belt drives are highly recommended for race motors but not recommended for street motors.
 
Andy would be the one to talk to IMO. I've never run one because I build street engines and they are just not the best for the street.
 
Belt drives are very expensive, and of little gain. Have you concidered a gear drive, just as accurate and no belt to break?
Andrew
 
Belt drives are very expensive, and of little gain. Have you concidered a gear drive, just as accurate and no belt to break?
Andrew

Gear drives transfer all of the crank harmonics directly to the valvetrain. Belt drives isolate the valvetrain from those harmonics. If you're going all-out, it's not a bad idea, but leave the gear drives where they belong - in Sprint Cars. The only reason gear drives are needed in a Sprint Car is because of all of the other things that are driven off the cam.
 

Yeah i though about a gear drive as well but from the sounds of things i'd be better off sticking with a good billet timing chain . oh and i 'm having a problem with picking out a cam and carb ? so to give you guys a little run down of what i have . its a 77 440 block out of a newyorker, the 440 source 512 stroker kit using .030 over 11 to 1 flat top pistons, 7.100 rods , 4.250 crank, indy cylinder head 440-SR heads, Indy single plain intake , i have head studs and main studs and a block gridle that i will be using. i am planning on going fuller roller probly hydraulic for the street .

thank for everyones input already
 
For that combination I'd recommend a street roller from Comp. The hyd roller will work but if the SR heads are ported to the max wedge size then you'll be capable of making power higher in the rpm range than a hyd roller will want to operate.

I really like the Jesel belt drive setup and I wouldn't build a race motor without using a Jesel belt drive. But if you're going to be driving on the street then you should probably stick with a regular timing chain. Get a high quality one not a cheap one. For engines like yours I'd use the Hex-a-just timing set and then one of my billet timing chain covers. That way you can adjust the cam timing without having to pull the whole front off the motor.
 
Here is a picture of the billet timing chain cover. You can just remove the center plate and adjust the cam timing if you're using the Cloyes Hex-a-just setup.
4800185-assembly.jpg


(My 11 year old son took this picture of me putting a motor together)
 
For a race motor this is the setup that I'd recommend. Both the Jesel belt drive and the Jesel distributor are good investments for a full on race motor. Combine this with a crank trigger ignition and you have a really stable setup that is easy to work on and will last a long time.
3858940-brackets.jpg
 
can i run a crank trigger ignition with out a jesel belt drive and jesel distributor ?? is there other distributors that work with crank triggers? and can you put a crank pully on with out hurting the crank trigger?
 
I honestly think you are looking at wasting time, money and effort.

This kind of stuff is for serious all out race cars. If you don't have a tube chassis, lexan windows and one racing bucket its pointless.
 
the main goal for this build is to be on that fine line of streetable.. i want to be able to drive it to the track.. the only time this car will be on a trailer is if its either broken or im going to some event thats far away. plus i want the knowledge for builds later on down the road.. but thanks for your opinion
 
A good MSD distributor and box along with a good timing chain and gears will work great. Larry Shepard makes and sells these really cool rollerized oil pump drives. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/hemi...14&_trkparms=72:1205|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318
Cloyes double roller for about $70:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cloy...c0.m245&_trkparms=72:1171|65:12|39:1|240:1318


That is not the top of the line Cloyes True Roller. You want this one:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CLO-9-3125-5&autoview=sku

It has a better chain and heat treated cam sprocket. Make sure whatever Cloyes you put in it has a Renold chain. It is the only good chain. If it says "Olon" on the chain, run away as fast as you can! I wouldn't put one of those in a stock rebuild. They stretch like ****'s.
 
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