Pump to Carb Hard Lines

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PocketAces

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I'm doing a fairly correct resto on my 1965 Dart with 273 4bbl, but I just couldn't bear to install the original fuel line/filter setup. The combination of hard and rubber lines and all the clamps just looks messy to me.

So I set out to come up with a hard line setup that looked somewhat stock. I settled on a fuel filter from a 2000-2004 Toyota Tundra. It was the smallest filter I could find with inverted flare fittings. My first attempt was with an AC GF90 used on Chevy's in the 1960's. But the GF90 has 1/8 NPT fittings so you add over an inch of length with the adapters from NPT to flare. Even though some pictures of the Tundra filter show it in metal finish, all the ones I found came in black. I think a metal finish would look more stock. Maybe I'll paint this one silver.

The fittings are 14mm so I had to find some 14mm flare nuts for 5/16 OD tube. They're out there, but much harder to find than I thought. I bought the last two they had at the local Autozone after striking out at O'reilley's, Pep Boys, and Napa. The nuts I found were just barely long enough. So if you have a choice, get the longer ones.

I bent and flared the lines myself and I made sure they would clear the AC Compressor and brackets so I wouldn't have to re-do them when I get around to installing my AC setup.

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Without AC:
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With AC:
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Looks good. Lets hope you don't have a fuel percolating problem.
Factory engineers moved that filter to a vertical position beside the timing cover in later models, About the same time they marked them unleaded fuel only.
I don't know that it makes a great difference.
I know the thicker base gasket under carb makes a difference. I did both changes to my 67 273. Cured it.
 
Nice job bending those lines, looks clean. I appreciate the effort it takes to do this kind of stuff, done a bunch of it myself.

Anyone can make up lines but getting the bends to wind up where you want them and getting the angles correct is a real skill.
 
Looks good.

It's hard to see some of the clearances there. If you don't have at least 1/2" clearance around the line to the alt bracket, you may want to put something in between the line and the bracket and tie wrap it to the alt bracket. Vibration can cause a "sawing" action and eventually rub through the line if there is not enough clearance.
 
Looks good.

It's hard to see some of the clearances there. If you don't have at least 1/2" clearance around the line to the alt bracket, you may want to put something in between the line and the bracket and tie wrap it to the alt bracket. Vibration can cause a "sawing" action and eventually rub through the line if there is not enough clearance.

I don't have 1/2" but there is definitely clearance everywhere. The pictures make it look like it's touching, but it's not. The lines are pretty stiff so I don't think I will have a problem, but I'll definitely check for signs of contact after the maiden voyage.

The Toyota Tundra has a bracket mounted to the frame rail that holds this filter. I guess you could grab one from a salvage yard and modify it to mount to the intake manifold, but not sure how that would look.
 
Looks good. That heater hose could pose a fuel heating problem, though. It looks pretty tight there.
 
Nice work, and it will be much easier to change the fuel filter in the future than fooling with rubber hose. Your engine looks great. I read your other posts about searching for the correct (and unique) AC brackets. Beautiful wrinkle finish on the valve covers. I saw you even have the rare metal radiator shroud, w/ apparently original paint and only slight surface rust (everyone envies SoCal owners).
 
First of all, great work. Very well done, I mean that.

But I cant understand why you would go through all the trouble of going with what looks like
an original build and then using a Toyota fuel filter.

Reproduction factory AVS fuel lines are available for around $20. I dont know, I think the Toyota filter
looks out of place. But thats just me.
 
It looks out of place, plus something I didn't think of before. It's fuel injection fuel filter. I'm no filter expert, but I have always read and heard that there's a difference.
 
But I cant understand why you would go through all the trouble of going with what looks like
an original build and then using a Toyota fuel filter.

Reproduction factory AVS fuel lines are available for around $20. I dont know, I think the Toyota filter
looks out of place. But thats just me.

I like the choice. I think that it looks like it belongs there, at least to the untrained eye. It's a plain, metal canister filter with screw-in fittings which appears old school to me. That filter probably flows/cleans better than an OE type too.

Plus, if he was going for an all original appearance, he would have used rubber lines and clamps, no? This is a well-executed interpretation.

Hard to image why guys would pick this apart for any reason.
 
Reproduction factory AVS fuel lines are available for around $20. I dont know, I think the Toyota filter
looks out of place. But thats just me.

I think the lines you're talking about require hoses and clamps between the lines and the filter. I wanted all hard lines.

I would have preferred to find the filter unpainted. I'll keep looking when I go to auto parts stores, or maybe I'll soda blast this one and see if it's plated under the paint. If not I can paint it with some silver paint.
 
It's fuel injection fuel filter. I'm no filter expert, but I have always read and heard that there's a difference.

Fuel injection filters catch smaller particles than carburetor filters. They also are designed to withstand higher pressures. I was concerned that might create a problem for the low pressure fuel pump. But I blew through the filter and there was very little resistance.
 
I like the choice. I think that it looks like it belongs there, at least to the untrained eye. It's a plain, metal canister filter with screw-in fittings which appears old school to me. That filter probably flows/cleans better than an OE type too.

Plus, if he was going for an all original appearance, he would have used rubber lines and clamps, no? This is a well-executed interpretation.

Hard to image why guys would pick this apart for any reason.

I see no one picking it apart at all, but giving helpful tips.
 
I see no one picking it apart at all, but giving helpful tips.

Scientists refer to this sort of thing as "Peer Review"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peer_review

I think it's a healthy thing. I hadn't really thought about percolation in the fuel line. And if somebody knew where to get pre-bent hard lines or a non-metric filter with 5/16th inverted flare fittings that would have been awesome.
 
I think you did good with it. And as long as you're comfortable with the filter, I think it looks fine. I just wanted to point out that it was an EFI filter......FWIW, and that's probably not much. lol
 
Great work Don! Looking real good, almost factort style.

I guess that those valve covers are done by Leanna. Masterwork Big time!
 
Looks great and eliminating rubber lines and hose clamps is a good thing for appearance and safety sake! Well done! Get a rubber stamp Mopar logo with some paint and hit the filter with it. You'll have people scratching their heads all over..... :)
 
I have not done mine yet. I may follow your lead, looks great! One question. By being all hard line could normal vibration lead to work hardening and cracking?
 
Looks good. :prayer:

I previously had a rediculous amount of rubber hose (20") between the pump and carb....we all know what that looks like.

I found this Hard Line set on Summit for a 340 with a Carter AVS
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-rpc6806

and it fit like a champ.....and my car has factory AC...where yours is AC delete.

Doesnt have screw in Filter Fittings.....but :cheers: for less than $25
 
Nice work. Clean flowing approach from carb to filter.
 
YEP i have allways been picky about fuel lines. NEVER hose for me. that install is at least as good as factory or better. if i walked up to that engine you will NOT hear me say WHAT IN WORLD HAPPENED?
 
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