Steering coupler..how do I get the thing back together ?

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cudamike13

cudamike13

cudamike13
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I bought a new coupler and internals for it.

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I can't get the two pieces that go into the casting to fit.
I have greased them, to no avail.
These are brand new parts.
I still have the old coupling and internals.
They don't fit in the new casting either.
The new parts won't go in the old casting either.
I mic'd them and they are the same.

Can anybody, somebody, tell me the secret? Please !

Thanks in advance, cudamike13
 
I always have a hard time getting the coupler to slip onto the steering box shaft. People always seem to jump in these threads to say that they have no problems. I make sure to have the master splines aligned. The thin steel retainer gets bent too. Maybe next time I'll tap the coupler on with the retainer left loose, maybe use a pickle fork....then slide the retainer in place afterward.
 
What year? may be a truck coupler that's almost square and isn't the right one. I had a 65 Dart that had the wrong coupler on it, the "spring" that holds the "shoes" out wouldn't go in, had to get a new coupler to get it back together.
Also,You may have them orientated in the wrong direction.
 
Kern Dog said:
I always have a hard time getting the coupler to slip onto the steering box shaft. People always seem to jump in these threads to say that they have no problems. I make sure to have the master splines aligned. The thin steel retainer gets bent too. Maybe next time I'll tap the coupler on with the retainer left loose, maybe use a pickle fork....then slide the retainer in place afterward.
Click to expand...
I heated the coupler with a radiant heater and it slipped right on.
Thanks.
 
I'd drive out that roll pin and assemble it the easy way, on the bench. You're fighting the weight of the box. Then slip it together on the input shaft in the car.
 
Avispa said:
What year? may be a truck coupler that's almost square and isn't the right one. I had a 65 Dart that had the wrong coupler on it, the "spring" that holds the "shoes" out wouldn't go in, had to get a new coupler to get it back together.
Also,You may have them orientated in the wrong direction.
Click to expand...
No, it's the correct one. It is the same as the one that came with car.
I have tried them in all possible ways and they just won't go in.
Thanks.
 
Throw that antiquated POS widowmaker in the ditch and put a Borgeson u-joint in it.
 
Demonic said:
I'd drive out that roll pin and assemble it the easy way, on the bench. You're fighting the weight of the box. Then slip it together on the input shaft in the car.
Click to expand...
When I first got part, I put in soft jaw vice and tried to install the two sliders and they nor the old ones will go in!
Thanks.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Somethin like this:

Summit Racing® Steering Joints SUM-760667

Now I'm not certain that's the right one, so don't jump on it until somebody here verifies it. It's 3/4 double D on one side and 3/4 36 spline on the other. I cannot remember if that's right or not, so just use it as an example.
Click to expand...
You are correct the manual steering box is a 36 spline 3/4 . I'm gonna do the u joint on mine I have done quite a bit of research on it. The joint that I found was similar to the one you posted.
 
They should be curved on the outside, make sure they go in like that. Also the curves should allow it to rock inside the slots, so the curve goes inline with the slots. shoes pivot in slots, shaft pivots on pin= 2 plane deflection
pic.jpg
 
I'll take a pic of a coupler and the shaft retainer I haven't seen before, course I R a kinda nwby on the deep nutz and boltz of there auto's.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Throw that antiquated POS widowmaker in the ditch and put a Borgeson u-joint in it.
Click to expand...
Normally I'd be right there with you on tech stuff but I don't agree with this at all.
The coupler is a good design. It allows for plunge and absorbs shock, something that the U-joint cannot do.
 
The coupler allows for flex that a u joint will not, the coupler is a good design, have you seen a Ford rag joint. Now that is frightening. I had one that the rubber was severed, and the steering was done by the stops hitting each other. If the shaft slipped up you go straight
 
20200306_014049(0).jpg

Curved edges of shoes facing out.

That aftermarket spring clip is a great idea too for holding the cap and seal on. Use them all the time.
 
I do the following. be sure to use a lot of lube pulling the parts in the coupler. The spring clip, if used, goes on last.
The gear box is mounted in the K frame. The coupler is mounted on the steering column then slide the column through the hole in the firewall, lining up the notch in the coupler and the one on the box. then drive in the roll pin.
 
I really doubt the shoes are the issue. I believe they are powder metal and the die controls the four outside dimensions. That leaves only the height as a possible issue for the shoes. When assembled, what do the new shoe "stack" measure compared to the old?
 
the smaller hump is for the square pots, IIRC you can put your tall hump on an anvil and tap the hump down if you can control the spread of the 'wings'. check clearance inside. Have you tried the tall hump in there, I think it will fit with a little 'pressure'. doing a rough measurement on your pic, its looks like the new clip is actually more narrow (due to taller hump) so it may have a little room to get tapped down as it will spread slightly.
clip.jpg
 
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