Time For a rebuild

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I bet if you went with a sheetmetal elbow for low clearance. It would fit under a stock hood or damn close ar least.
 
Well I took the car to Nolan's on Sunday so we can start the turbo kit. I have sent the intake back to Muscle motors as there was a screw up when the injector bungs were drilled to big. Will post some pics as we proceed with the work.
 
A lot of progress has been made in the last 2 weeks. As well I finally received my interior panels that my wife had made for me back in May. Yes the holes for the the window cranks and the arm rests need to be cut. Headers have been finish welded, modified half the air to water intercooler and will be changing the other side, put in the window net. I also made a rad out of cardboard to give us an idea of where I want it and how it will affect the turbo placement.
I also bought the intake for muscle motors, was going to build the injector mounts and found that the injector bungs have been drilled to large. I sent it back and asked for a refund as we changed how the turbo's and where the intercooler is mounted and could use the stock intake. Mike told me that since I ordered the intake drilled that he could not refund me my money. A week went by and I had not heard anything so I emailed asking what was happening with the intake and was told they are machining a new intake as the old one could not be fixed. I sent another email asking for a refund but have not heard anything. They also asked what size I want the injector holes drilled too. I thought all injectors were a standard size at the o-ring or am I wrong on that. All my research tells me they are the same size.. Anyone know differently let me know.
 

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Here are the rest if the pics form the work we have done.
 

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Ok been waiting on parts and pieces. Muscle motors screwed up the first intake and I have been waiting on the new one but they are dragging their asses, wont return phone calls and worst thing is I had to pay shipping to return the first one they screwed up.. I am not to happy with how my experience has gone with them and do not recommend them. I ordered a new rad from Ron Davis and it should be here by nov 1st. We have made a little progress since the last update but now need the intake to finish the last pipe and its done. I will need to move my new brake lines to clear the exhaust and change master cyl. I will have the rad (4 core rad for a 69 dart) and a small Ron Davis rad I bought out of a promod but have concerns it would not work at keeping the car cool on the street along with the factory 6.1 intake tb and injectors, coming up for sale soon in the for sale section with pics.
 

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Well I certainly won't buy **** from musclemotor after hearing that. I can't stand people not taking responsibility for tgeir F-bomb up. Then you having to pay another shipping charge for them F-bombing up. If you paid with a cc do a charge back and tell them to **** off. Sure glad I knew this before I ordered a F-bombed up part by jackass inc llc!!!
 
Ya I have contacted the cc co. They said I could put up a dispute not a garrentee I would get my money back. Going to call again on Monday and tell them that if I don't hear back from the owner by the end of the day I will be contacting the cc and stopping the payment.
 
Ya I have contacted the cc co. They said I could put up a dispute not a garrentee I would get my money back. Going to call again on Monday and tell them that if I don't hear back from the owner by the end of the day I will be contacting the cc and stopping the payment.

Not to hijack the thread or make this an Ef MM thing but a year or two ago I built a F.A.S.T. Engine for a BB 69dart. I talked to MM about CNC porting a set of 906 heads and a "modification" to the chamber they said was no problem to do. A year later I got a set of heads and the story continues but I don't wish to jam your thread up. Don't let them get away with anything!! They already got away with too much with me!!!! If you want more info PM me but leave it out of this thread. Ya got a good thing going here and alway wait for the updates. Joe
 
Well the car is finally home. The turbo kit is done, had to wait for the rad and fit it. I have some changes to make to brake lines I did as they are close to the exhaust and since I ended up putting disc brakes on the rear I need to change the master cyl.
On the night I brought the car home we had a bad storm, temps dropped below freezing and it rained and snowed. I was able to borrow a friends enclosed trailer but it was a scary nerve racking drive home. Many cars in the ditch and had to take the long way on the back road as the big hill on the highway was so icy that 18 wheeler's were having to chain up to make it up the hill.
Now I can start to plumb the car, finish the brake lines and put wiring and interior in, hoping to get all the piping coated soon. Then pull the engine and decide what I am doing with it. When the rad came it was thicker then what I was told by 1", and when putting 10 lbs of **** in a 5 lbs bag you need all the room you can get. We ended up moving the rad forward as far as we could and at a bit of an angle but everything is in. Nolan also had to make a lower rad hose out of pipe to fit it in.
 

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Love the Ron Davis Radiator. Are the inlet and outlet both on the passenger side? Is the radiator a custom one off, or is it something you can order for a 'reasonable' price?

The build is really starting to come together. Can't wait to hear it run.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Just saw this thread on the swap.
I have been looking at many swap threads as I am truly thinking of a 5.7 hemi in a 69 Dart.
This thread is one of the better swap threads that I have come across here, right up there.
Keep up the good work. Looking forward for more updates.
Thanks!

Onig
 
Joe the rad is an off the shelf from the off road section from Ron Davis. The inlet and out let are on the same side. They weld in a plate seperating the upper and lower half of the passenger side tank, this forces the water to pass through the rad 2 times. There are cheaper rads out there, but I am a firm believer in you get what you pay for, have many local guys using Ron's rads for 10 - 15 years, and many local guys who went cheaper and have had to replace after 5 years. So pay for a good rad now and it last along time or buy 2 and spend more in the long run.

Onig I have been doing my best on keeping up to date posts on my build and showing how I have gone about doing things. I hope it helps others with there builds. Thanks for the kind words.

Trevor
 
Hey Trevor,
I don't know if you mentioned this or not, but where did you get the exhaust flanges for the headers that you made?
Also, how are you supporting the turbos, any pics?
Keep up the great work, very inspiring.

Onig
 
Flanges came from street and performance. The turbo's are supported off brackets from the alt bolt and power steering delete pulley bolt. You can see them in one of the pics at the top of the page (msg 158 )

Trevor
 
Pipes are out being ceramic coated, then I am going to put the turbo kit back on and move brake lines and finish the rear brake lines. Start plumbing water lines for intercooler and wiring.
 
Been a while since I have updated, but not much has been going on as I have been looking for parts and pieces. Had the turbo pipes and headers coated, finished the rear brake lines and have started the e brake stuff. Intake has been taken to machine shop to machine the injector holes. I have also been asked about pics of my headers that I built. I ordered them from street and performance just tacked, disassembled them and started to move pipes and ended up adding pipes and changing the collectors.

Trevor
 

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Thanks for the added pictures of headers. Nice work can't wait to see this thing running.
 
The master cylinder finally came, I picked up some wilwood brake fluid and bench bled it and got it in the car. Started bleeding the brakes, rear want well and no leaks. The wilwood brakes on the front was a different story. I started bleeding the front and it seemed like a large amount of air in the system. I had the front brakes in the car last summer with drum brake on the old rear end and everything was bled and ready to go. When I changed to the 9" I put disc's on the back and had to change the master cylinder so that's why I was bleeding the brakes. It was very strange as I have never experienced anything like this when bleeding brakes before, but the fluid coming out was like foam. I would bleed the brakes into a clean container ( one that the new brake fluid came in) and let it sit but the foam would not go away would not float to the top and pop just stayed suspended in the fluid. After a while the fluid cleared up as the new fluid came through the system, as I got down to the end I needed to top off the master cylinder, but was out of new fluid. I grabbed one of the full bottled I had filled near the end of this bleeding marathon. Poured some into a clear container and it seemed fine. So I poured some into the master cyl put the cap on and had my dad pump up the brakes. Cracked the bleeder screw and clean fluid no air bubbles then all of a sudden foam again. I removed the master cylinder cap and the inside was foam. I sucked some fluid out of the master cylinder and removed the foam. I went back to the parts store (1.5 hr round trip) today picked up 3 more bottles of brake fluid. I pumped the brakes and checked the master cyl no foam ( must of got all the old bad fluid with the turkey baster). Topped off the master cylinder with new fluid and re bled the fronts but by the end no foam or air.
 
Very nice work so far. I can't wait to see final assembly with all the parts looking nice an purdy. It's going to be so freaking fast!

What's that Estopp thing? Never seen that before...
 
Very nice work so far. I can't wait to see final assembly with all the parts looking nice an purdy. It's going to be so freaking fast!

What's that Estopp thing? Never seen that before...

The estopp is an electric e brake. Basically an actuator that pulls the e brake cables. It was designed for perapalegic drivers that can't push on the e brake peddle. It was then brought into the hot rod industry.
 
Well not much been going on, busy with work and family. I have done the fuel lines and return lines. Have had another problem with the mm intake not their fault. I had the bungs drilled for the injectors and while i was setting up the fuel lines on the intake and rail hold downs the intake chipped where the intake runners and injector holes meet exposing the o-ring. I have taking the intake in to have the holes drilled and have new bungs installed. not sure I am going to use it now may just shelf it and use it when I build the stroker and use the factory intake on the engine with low boost. I did port the factory intake and am currently trying to figure out how to route the fuel lines to feed both rails and return both to the regulator. Will post some pics later, just thought I would stop by say hello and say I have not given up on the project. On a good note I did receive my new wheels and front tires.
 
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