UTG engine build "callout"

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And there is a big difference between "loose" clearance, and loose "worn out" clearance!
 
In a UTG video comment section someone mentioned the reversed pistons and this was a reply:
"the rods are ahead of the stroke not behind the stroke"

Trying to picture that in my head. Can anyone clarify what that means?
 
i am thinking in terms of actual resistance, the piston is either scaping the lifter valley side of the bore or the outside of the bore if that makes sense, its more
about geometry and resistance than anything and still no measurable proof of any HP gain. I would think flipping pistons loosens up the rotating assembly, and that's about it. One measurement would be to put a torque wrench on the rotating assembly without the heads on so no compression, and see at what torque value the rotating assembly breaks free, then flip pistons and see if the torque value decreases etc.
 
Position of the rod and its angle as it is over the crank.
 
replicaracer43 said:
Ok, what we have here is a typical run of the mill 318, although this is a magnum variety, a 94 casting I believe. This engine is here in order to grow in to a 390 inch mill, but that's another story. With the stock crank, and std bearings in place, the piston is "in the hole" .052 as installed from the factory, notch to the front.... Flipping the piston around, it measures .053 in the hole, with the notch to the rear. So a grand total of .001 difference, and then consider your running probably. 0025-.0030 rod bearing clearance, I'd say its basically "net zero" I did confirm the piston has wrist pin offset, although I didn't measure the amount, the .060 @RustyRatRod spoke of is pretty close.

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I do like that someone is actually getting "scientific " with this... it starts to put an end to the 'quibbling" :)
 
The thing is, this mod is maybe worth 1%, perhaps 2%? It will not be seen (IMO) on low level powered engines.

Why would you do this for a most super tiny gain?
Because when you add up all the little things you do like this, it just simply adds up. Do it 10 or 15 times and your engine is inching in front of your competitor.
 
rumblefish360 said:
The thing is, this mod is maybe worth 1%, perhaps 2%? It will not be seen (IMO) on low level powered engines.

Why would you do this for a most super tiny gain?
Because when you add up all the little things you do like this, it just simply adds up. Do it 10 or 15 times and your engine is inching in front of your competitor.
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I could see that. As in a combination of little things ads up.
 
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318willrun said:
If you have the time, watch and see what you think....

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I saw that, I dont know if I agree with alot of what he said. He has a video about small block mopar intermediate shafts that is chock full of mis information also
 
replicaracer43 said:
I saw that, I dont know if I agree with alot of what he said. He has a video about small block mopar intermediate shafts that is chock full of mis information also
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the way he explained it, it was kind of hard to follow. Not very viewer friendly, but I got his theory. We'll see what Rich's 5.9 does on the dyno
 
318willrun said:
the way he explained it, it was kind of hard to follow. Not very viewer friendly, but I got his theory. We'll see what Rich's 5.9 does on the dyno
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One part of his theory that is definitely wrong, is the combustion pressure does not move from one side of the chamber to the other, once combustion occurs, the entire area is pressurized
 
I think he gets that from the piston rock in the bore.
 
Is there a deserted island with electricity? Asking for a friend.
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318willrun said:
If you have the time, watch and see what you think....

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Totally off! First of all he has the crank spinning in the wrong direction so it's all off.

It has to do with the crank pin and the rod at 90*, That's where it has the max torque.

If you move the wrist pin It changes where the crank is when the rod and crank are at 90*.

This also changes the height of the piston in the bore when the rod and crank are at 90*
 
replicaracer43 said:
And there is a big difference between "loose" clearance, and loose "worn out" clearance!
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yes i had a loose 440 that i drove for 13 years 500,000 miles thing clucked like a chicken when cold quiet once warmed up
 
greymouser7 said:
Would a 2bbl Poly 318 defeat uncle Tony?
What would you guys do to perk up a stock 318 to compete with uncle T?
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All things considered, I'd say yes. To beat Uncle Tony with a 318? install a cheap Summit cam, set of headers and a 600 CFM 4 barrel, tune accordingly...:)
 
RustyRatRod said:
But along those lines......and I'm neither condemning nor defending him here......but IMO the youtube money makin thing is same as a fad. It's gonna fade out sooner or later. Maybe not 100% but it's day is gonna come and go. It's not like income from a welder, mechanic, fabricator or the like. At least that's how I view it.....
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You are correct, YT will find a way to "not pay" people in the future.
 
I'd probably measure my bearing clearance and not put std bearings on a .010 under crankshaft, and damn sure not check for cylinder integrity with a carpenter's level and a flashlight...(actual UTG video on how to do that)
 
replicaracer43 said:
I'd probably measure my bearing clearance and not put std bearings on a .010 under crankshaft, and damn sure not check for cylinder integrity with a carpenter's level and a flashlight...(actual UTG video on how to do that)
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Has UTG sent his clapped out 318 back to Nick's for another dyno lesson yet?
 
Dartswinger70 said:
All things considered, I'd say yes. To beat Uncle Tony with a 318? install a cheap Summit cam, set of headers and a 600 CFM 4 barrel, tune accordingly...:)
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In the nearly 2 years it has taken to "dial it in" it has lost to every car in the opposite lane...including v6 chevy blazers, and all assortments of family cars, just watch the videos, its embarrassing
 
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