superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Yes that's exactly what I'm saying. I think this has been an issue even with the other engine.
Well It Finally Happened
- Thread starter superchargeddrt
- Start date
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yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
That's just crapola quality control then. I can't think of the number off the top of my head, but as I said before that dimension has been the same since 1961 or 1962 for all Chrysler engines.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
That's what I think as well. Top Street Performance (TSP) might as well be Total Sh** Performance. Nothing good to say about them. By the way, my buddy Larry has one of these in his twin turbo D150 and it's the same way!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I have a friend that says junk is junk at any price. I'd have to agree. You have junk.
Hopefully your buddy junks his junk before it does some damage.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Oh he is. I ordered a genuine MSD distributor today. Should be here by Saturday.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Ok so why didn't anybody warn me that my BFGs we're going to be USELESS? I had the Dart out for the first time yesterday and all I can say is HOLY CRAP!!!! If I am driving at 35 MPH and stab the pedal at about 1/4 travel it breaks the tires loose. Looks like I have some MTs in my future. Idle quality is rough but it sounds way cool. It shakes my fiberglass hood while idling. The engine now rubs at about 180° when sitting in traffic BUT now runs close to 200° while moving. Looks like flaps may need to be installed on my fan shroud. I will take some video for you guys this week, I promise.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
So I know that some of you have been waiting for startup and first drive videos of the Dart but I will be honest, when I went to the cruise last Friday I was so excited to drive it that I forgot to record it LOL. The new engine performed flawlessly other than running a little hotter than I would like while driving (200*). It now runs opposite of the way it used to. It used run 210* while sitting in traffic and 180* when driving, it now runs 180 while sitting in traffic. Anyway I felt bad so I went out to the garage and shot this video of a cold start and the next time I have it out I will shoot video of the 1/4 pedal tire shedding mayhem. Anyway, enjoy.
How do you like it compared to the supercharger?
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
It is incredible, I won't say that I don't miss the pizzazz of the blower, every car show you went to it would always draw a crowd but this thing is brutal to say the least. At 35 MPH if I stab the pedal 1/4 of the way it breaks the tires loose! The idle is as rough as sandpaper but I'm digging it. The fuel injection is still leaning but it's getting better all of the time. I finally connected my line lock last week so that's another thing done. Also I had an incident at the car cruise last Friday. I was ready to leave the cruise and after I put my folding chair in the trunk (you know that feeling when you think you've done something wrong?) I started feeling my pockets and realized that I had locked my keys in the trunk Arrrghhh! Wound up taking my back seat out so...........after having it for over 30 years I decided to replace my trunk latch with a power latch I got at the junk yard from a Dodge Diplomat. I already had the switch located in my ashtray area because my car came with a power trunk release (it had a large solenoid that I removed). The switch however was bad so I took it apart and repaired it (they made things better then and you can get away with repairing it) so now I have a power release eliminating the keys locked in the trunk syndrome.
Sounds like a fun engine, I know the high compression 360 in my truck will just break the rear tires loose at will in any gear.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
I will definitely need better tires LOL
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Well it doesn't appear to be overheating so maybe it's ok.. I'm now experiencing a new issue and this may be due to the fact that it's a fresh engine with less than 100 miles on it. It looks like I'm building crankcase pressure. When I put my foot into it I get oil out of the passenger side breather and it's leaking onto my expensive TTI headers. I hope that this crankcase pressure is due to the rings not seating and not ring gap issues or something else that would require disassembling the engine. I am sure that I am just being paranoid and that it may be something with my fancy new breather. Any thoughts you guys have are welcome. I still am impressed with the performance and can't wipe the smile off of my face when I'm driving it.
Your engine was dynoed so the rings should be sealed, never again will that engine see as much load as it did during dyno testing.
Do you have a PCV valve? It is very important to run these to evacuate crankcase pressure. Stroker engines while increasing cubic inches for performance also increase air movement in crankcase as the piston travel has increased. Stock eliminator racers often run 2 pcv valves for the extra crankcase scavenging, I'm told minor ET gains are seen doing this due to the lower pressures they create. I run 2 in my 408 just for extra protection, it can't hurt anyway. Glad you are liking your new engine, they sure put a smile on the face!!!!!
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
get one of those adjustable pcv valves
get the car warmed up then 10 full throttle up to legal speed limit then coast down to slow
repeat 10 times
still a problem do compression and leak down tests
get the car warmed up then 10 full throttle up to legal speed limit then coast down to slow
repeat 10 times
still a problem do compression and leak down tests
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Your engine was dynoed so the rings should be sealed, never again will that engine see as much load as it did during dyno testing.
Do you have a PCV valve? It is very important to run these to evacuate crankcase pressure. Stroker engines while increasing cubic inches for performance also increase air movement in crankcase as the piston travel has increased. Stock eliminator racers often run 2 pcv valves for the extra crankcase scavenging, I'm told minor ET gains are seen doing this due to the lower pressures they create. I run 2 in my 408 just for extra protection, it can't hurt anyway. Glad you are liking your new engine, they sure put a smile on the face!!!!
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
I guess that's about the only REAL way to be sure. I will have to wait until next Saturday as I leave for a business trip tomorrow. I will let everyone know how it works out.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Yes they are. I am thinking that I may want to check how much oil is in my pan. My dipstick was fine before but now that I've changed pans that may not be the case and I might be whipping up the oil. I did install a windage tray but if the oil is too high it can get past that. I should have checked it and marked my dipstick. Just another thing to check. I may try draining a quart out and see what happens . I will be changing the oil again soon anyway.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Okay Guys,
Well now I've got a pretty good oil leak that appears to be coming from the main bearing seal. The oil LOOKS like its coming from the transmission bell housing which means we are either removing the drag link and trying to drop the oil pan or the entire engine is coming back out (not my choice). Do you guys think we can get away with changing the seal in the car or is it my worst nightmare come true and I'm pulling the engine?
Well now I've got a pretty good oil leak that appears to be coming from the main bearing seal. The oil LOOKS like its coming from the transmission bell housing which means we are either removing the drag link and trying to drop the oil pan or the entire engine is coming back out (not my choice). Do you guys think we can get away with changing the seal in the car or is it my worst nightmare come true and I'm pulling the engine?
Here's something posted by a FABO Member a while back It can be done in the car but it sometimes won't be fun..
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Ok Guys,
Here's an update. Yesterday Larry and I decided to address the oil leak on the Dart. Imagine my surprise when I found that the oil had sprayed all the way to the back of the car! It was time for diagnostics, we cleaned all of the oil off of the engine and added a dye to the oil. After starting the engine we let it run for a few minutes and then checked with a uv light, all was made clear. It seems that the pan gasket is leaking AGAIN (this is the second one, the first one leaked on the dyno). The oil was leaking onto the back side of the converter shield and was leaking out of the tranny bell housing. il will install this one with Permatex High Tack. This is where the problems started. We put the Dart on the lift and removed the drag link loosened the pan bolts on the Milodon. pan and there was NO WAY it was coming down. We then removed the passenger side header, still no dice. We loosened the driver's side header, nope. We loosened the transmission cross member and lifted the engine off of the mounts and stiis not even close SO now TGE ENGINE IS COMING OUT ARRRRGHHHHH. Well at least I will be able to double check the valley and cam shaft plugs. Stay tuned.
Here's an update. Yesterday Larry and I decided to address the oil leak on the Dart. Imagine my surprise when I found that the oil had sprayed all the way to the back of the car! It was time for diagnostics, we cleaned all of the oil off of the engine and added a dye to the oil. After starting the engine we let it run for a few minutes and then checked with a uv light, all was made clear. It seems that the pan gasket is leaking AGAIN (this is the second one, the first one leaked on the dyno). The oil was leaking onto the back side of the converter shield and was leaking out of the tranny bell housing. il will install this one with Permatex High Tack. This is where the problems started. We put the Dart on the lift and removed the drag link loosened the pan bolts on the Milodon. pan and there was NO WAY it was coming down. We then removed the passenger side header, still no dice. We loosened the driver's side header, nope. We loosened the transmission cross member and lifted the engine off of the mounts and stiis not even close SO now TGE ENGINE IS COMING OUT ARRRRGHHHHH. Well at least I will be able to double check the valley and cam shaft plugs. Stay tuned.
Darn it i wich i had seen this thread before,some oilpans can be wrestled out with the engine still sort of in the car but from my point of view its realy not worth it and i wich i could have warned you before you tried it.
Usualy works with alitle sealer where the pan gasketparts meet up,but it sure would be nice with onepiece pan gaskets just as is available for SBC´s (unless they are available nowadays i might have missed something here)
Usualy works with alitle sealer where the pan gasketparts meet up,but it sure would be nice with onepiece pan gaskets just as is available for SBC´s (unless they are available nowadays i might have missed something here)
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Yeah I have tried everything, it looks like it's gonna have to come out. Believe me I'm not looking forward to it.
67 gt
A Wog boy who loves his Mopars !
Just wondering how do you plumb up the 2 pcv valves to carb and do you use a cap with the pcv built in on one side as I'm keen on doing this to mine as I have a solid roller 408 and I'm experiencing crank case pressure, it leaks some oil from the rear main seal but only after I've given it a decent run and have got on to it, no oil spraying on headers or Transmission pan. You can see a line of oil down the inspection plate to the base of the bell only will leak a little oil after shut off Checked back of the pan and its dry, checked the filter plate all is good. checked all over to make sure it wasn't leaking from up top all bone dry.
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