just one more cam selection thread

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scott657

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Budget, but I will pay for the right equipment.
Stock 360 short block (1976) 4027569 Heads 1.88/1.60 milled .045 comp 901 springs
.039 head gasket(felpro)
not sure about intake manifold weiand for budget, edelbrock if it will improve intended performance
Edelbrock AVS II Carb Thanks @rumblefish360 & @RustyRatRod for the suggestion
Dougs 453 headers
2-1/2 Inch exhaust
904 stock trans and converter(could upgrade)
ford 8" rearend (intending on 3.23 ratio)
225-70-15 tires
point distributor with pertronix ignitorI conversion and matching coil
Street only(occasional burnout)
Probably won't go north of 5000 RPM to be honest
I would rather err on the side of not blowing up engine
Im almost 62 but not quite over it yet
Thanks Guys AND Gals
 
Subscibed.... Sounds like what I'm doing on my LA 360. Just a nice street engine. This will be my last engine, and car. its going in a 66 B-Cuda. Im almost 76, Time to relax.

Dave
 
Is a smooth idle important?
Do you have power brakes?

Intake wise, I suggest a Edelbrock



Budget, but I will pay for the right equipment.
Stock 360 short block (1976) 4027569 Heads 1.88/1.60 milled .045 comp 901 springs
.039 head gasket(felpro)
not sure about intake manifold weiand for budget, edelbrock if it will improve intended performance
Edelbrock AVS II Carb Thanks @rumblefish360 & @RustyRatRod for the suggestion
Dougs 453 headers
2-1/2 Inch exhaust
904 stock trans and converter(could upgrade)
ford 8" rearend (intending on 3.23 ratio)
225-70-15 tires
point distributor with pertronix ignitorI conversion and matching coil
Street only(occasional burnout)
Probably won't go north of 5000 RPM to be honest
I would rather err on the side of not blowing up engine
Im almost 62 but not quite over it yet
Thanks Guys AND Gals
 
i just had a cam ground by bullet racing, i asked for torque and a bit of lope, adv dur. 267/268, .050 214/220, lift 480/489, 108 c/l +4 adv, the +4 was ground in so it was dot to dot, in my 360 it pulls hard to 6000, it was pricey living in canada, but im happy.
 
Call Jim at Racer Brown, Isky, Comp Cams, or any of the cam companies and think about what you want and be honest. They are the experts.
 
Is the engine together ? if yes ,it makes it easier if you know the current cranking cylinder pressure and Intake closing angle.
If not together, then have you figured out the exact compression ratio?
The compression ratio and available gas can be used to generate an optimum Ica within about +/- 3 degrees for a cam with an advertised .008 to .006 published number.
The optimum number may provide optimum power and exciting bottom-end take-off.
Straying too far from that optimum number sometimes generates disappointing bottom-end which then requires other measures like a hi-stall TC and ugly street gears occasionally leading to an overdrive; all of which are additional expenses.
IMO, fixing the Scr for to be able to use the cam that best suits your wants is ,in the end, the cheapest solution.
The stock 8/1 advertised LA360 doesn't fare all that well when up-caming, especially when stuck with 3.23 gears and near-stock stall TC. I read where you said heads cut .045, so that is a step in the right direction, but will it be enough..........
 
looks like a stock compression 360 right? stock converter and gears
so far
crane PowerMax Hyd Lifter Camshaft; RPM 2200-5800;
Adv. Dur. 278 Int./290 Exh .050 222-234 Valve Lift .467 Int./.494 Exh.; Lobe Angle 114 deg.; you do not have the compression for this cam, it's a hot rod cam-
Bullet 267/268, .050 214/220, lift 480/489, and maybe even this one
given a choice no question about the bullet
Ask AJ to pick an intake closed point once you give us your compression then pick a cam
also check out Howards and Lunati Voodoo if really low compression the 001
COMP AND ISKY have NOTHING 4 U- and really neither does Crane- note Crane's advertised is at .004 so it looks better- and here it actually has much more seat to seat than the bullet
Jim at racer brown- good call
Mike Jones but you said budget
 
i just had a cam ground by bullet racing, i asked for torque and a bit of lope, adv dur. 267/268, .050 214/220, lift 480/489, 108 c/l +4 adv, the +4 was ground in so it was dot to dot, in my 360 it pulls hard to 6000, it was pricey living in canada, but im happy.

hey rigger..empty your mailbox or send me a pm...
 
low compression, stock gears, stock converter and 255/70 tires and you would stick an old school 268 in it, not even the later xe UD Harold better version?
remember
Street only(occasional burnout)
Probably won't go north of 5000 RPM to be honest
 
Summit Racing cam kit that has 216*@.050/.454" lift. Ran that cam in a similar build in my old 69 Dart with a factory high stall converter and 3.55 rear. That motor would rev to 6000 rpm fast. Very similar to yours except I ran a 750 Holley and a Weiand action plus intake .
 
low compression, stock gears, stock converter and 255/70 tires and you would stick an old school 268 in it, not even the later xe UD Harold better version?
remember
Street only(occasional burnout)
Probably won't go north of 5000 RPM to be honest
I know this post wasn’t directed to me but you do not always need to stick in the most radical lifting high lift cam in every engine.

The power difference is super minimal for starters. Lazier Ramps are easier on the valve train and go more miles without issues.

I’ll take an extra 50K miles over 50 or even 100hp I my actual driver that is super similar to exactly what the op wrote about.

You constantly ash cam manufacturers for the “Chevy love cams” in our MoPar engines for the sake of mo-power. It’s not always needed.

But if in your head (that’s everyone reading this) it makes you happy, enjoy the mental hp!

FWIW, I still run into people (older thanks sometimes) that state emphatically that a manual choke carb makes more power than an electric choke carb.

Whatever bro! Enjoy the (mental) HP advantage!!!
 
Lets try 8.5 to 8.7 CR
If dished pistons, and 070 below deck based on reading on this forum
 
Do you want a smooth idle?
Do you have power brakes?
 
No power brakes
Smooth Idle is not necessarily important
the 50000 extra miles would be a bonus for sure
 
low compression, stock gears, stock converter and 255/70 tires and you would stick an old school 268 in it, not even the later xe UD Harold better version?
remember
Street only(occasional burnout)
Probably won't go north of 5000 RPM to be honest
there is no longevity bonus from a long ramp universal chevy grind as it does not use all the MOPAR lifter- the mopar may actually be easier depending on the acceleration
Mopar Performance, Engle, Crower, and special order Crane etc all Have Mopar grinds that are not radical
now why
a universal (chevy) master is for the smaller SBC base circle
Mopar has a similar base circle to a BBC
A smaller base circle requires a pointer nose than a larger base circle for the same profile
so which wears better? (and will tolerate more spring pressure if needed)
little pointy nose or round big nose?
No one said it was easy and there are always tradeoffs
but with MOPAR profiles you can have your cake and eat it too
Now some of the faster MOPAR profiles - like some Howard's and the XE-HL series from comp can be a little noisier than Lunati and Bullet has both
The Jones is not Noisy at all
that said do not just order profile from a lobe list
you can't tell how radical or if designed for longevity or for max effort/ regular maintence (although looking at the spring required gives a good clue)
 
That crane cam works pretty dam well in a low comp. 360. I don't know why, it just does.

I just throw it out there brother, I caint do anything else. lol I don't know why either, but I've used it in several low compression 360s and it's badass in them.
 
All the dick measuring ain't helpin the OP at all, IMO. The fact is, you don't know that the "Mopar only" lobe is best in every single situation. And besides, if the OP wants "the best lobe" he's gonna be lookin from now till the day he dies, instead of choosing a cam, and getting his car going so he can have a good time.

In a street car, I couldn't care less about "what's best". I want to know what's proven. What works well. Not the latest and greatest hype of "XD" this and "Extreme" that. Snappy names hook people in all too easily. I want what's proven and what works mile after mile in a street application.

To the OP, just pick something similar to what we've talked about and go. Otherwise, you'll likely never make a choice. Nobody here is going to recommend something that will be a dead dog.
 
Ain’t that the truth!
All the dick measuring ain't helpin the OP at all, IMO. The fact is, you don't know that the "Mopar only" lobe is best in every single situation. And besides, if the OP wants "the best lobe" he's gonna be lookin from now till the day he dies, instead of choosing a cam, and getting his car going so he can have a good time.

In a street car, I couldn't care less about "what's best". I want to know what's proven. What works well. Not the latest and greatest hype of "XD" this and "Extreme" that. Snappy names hook people in all too easily. I want what's proven and what works mile after mile in a street application.

To the OP, just pick something similar to what we've talked about and go. Otherwise, you'll likely never make a choice. Nobody here is going to recommend something that will be a dead dog.
 
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