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it was a long time ago...it was in the 12's, but IIRC high 12's. edit- btw, with the 4.10s it topped out at about 110, but it got there at just the right distance :)

I used to have a comparable cam in the 340 that was in my Duster (mine was even a little stronger) with 4.10s and a built 727, 11:1 comp. I loved it- no streetability/drivability issues at all (other than gas mileage lol). And not much could touch it:D

true, but as they aged the Plymouths kept theirs better. :burnout:

my Duster won't start warm unless I turn off the electric fuel pump and let it run out of gas. Then when I fire it up it starts at the flick of the key (after turning the pump back on of course lol).

with my 4.10s I used to cruise at 85 with my 340 (yeah, about 4500 rpm). Now that I have an old stock 360 in it, I don't even like to take it to 60 that often (I know it's nowhere near redline, but still lol)

I used to shut my Duster off in drive then put it in park. Stopped the dieseling in its tracks:D

'pipe dope' can and should be used on pretty much every bolt that holds a car together-makes everything a lot better if you ever want to disassemble anything in, say, the next 20 or 30 years.

the headers on the 289 in my '66 Mustang used to cause the starters to get cooked in no time (and then I'd get the same 'no cranking when hot' problem). I simply painted the next starter white before installing it and I never had any more problems (believe it or not).

yep, black with aluminum and chrome. Best look there is.

not to hijack the thread, but the first video sounds exactly like the 360 in my Duster sounds - but it sounds okay until it warms up. I was thinking burnt valve/bent pushrod, something like that, but what would cause it to sound alright when first started up, and bad after getting up to temp?

could need an adjustment to the kickdown linkage...

agreed- especially if it's already rebuilt and just needs to be installed. a high-12 second with 4.10's is about the setup my Duster used to have in the '90s, and I didn't mind highway cruising my car (hell, I'd even run at about 85-90 mph for long stretches-there's some revs lol).

do it!!! I've seen a Stealth with a big-block mopar. now I want to see an old mopar with AWD:happy1:

never mind that- use the AWD setup in your Dart- then you've really got something. I'll let you do the fabrication and engineering, I'm just the idea man:D

but 7/9ths is more than 11/15ths...

hence the 'what's it worth' in the title...

hell, even lousy headers make more power. They just need more love lol.

try sanding the points too (at least). The 289 in my '66 Mustang had points, and I had to sand them a bit fairly regularly to keep it running tip-top. btw, sitting for a few years shouldn't be a problem- my Scamp sat for over 4 years after I bought my Stealth- when I decided to get it going...

that's what I thought when I looked at it...

good to know that the Quick carb parts interchange... I daily drove this car with the 4.10s for about 10 years (before parking it for about 10 years) with a 340. It was a well built 340 (about 400 horse) but still a 340. 85 mph was about 4500 rpm, so cruising at that speed wasn't too bad...

thanks fishy- can you tell me whether the Quick carbs use Holley parts (specifically jets).

I know I need some more info for sure -my brother had the exact cam specs, but couldn't remember them offhand. (and I realized after I went to bed that I was woefully lacking in details about the usage lol) It's going to still be a cruiser (bruiser?) with the 4.10s and the 727 that are in it now...

ok, we're building a 416- going to be a Lunati roller cam, my brother couldn't remember the exact specs except that it's got a .535 lift- I can get the info later though. Either 9.1 or 9.5 to 1. W2 heads, headers... I can get more info later, but we're looking for quick recommendations for...

me versus my buddy's new coyote 5.0 mustang. I pulled up beside a new 5.0 'vert- I'd seen the car a few times before, but I didn't realize that the owner was someone I know. We started chatting, I was checking the car out, and asked him if they are as fast as I'd heard. He says "let's find...

it's usually a percolating gas problem-most people have had good luck with carb spacers (to reduce the heat that soaks up and boils the gas). In my case I ran a switch to the electric fuel pump so I could shut it off and run the car out of gas when I shut it off- solved my problem.

he means back at the actual tranny(before the linkage converts to up and down), pull it towards the back of the truck.

I agree with this- my stock 360/4.10 combo isn't exactly a highway cruiser lol.

I've heard of people welding studs onto the regular cap bolts (not sure how that might affect the strength of the cap bolts though-certainly can't help).

I was going to say that I loved the way my old 340 ran with the torker on it (with a 780 Holley). Oh yeah, and 4.10s and a huge cam...

yep- we learned that when we put the 360 in my Duster last fall.