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Balancing beads.

I agree- doesn't really look much lower than my Scamp: and that's just stock (on old springs lol). With 14's so that changes the look a bit.

really.

this.

you can turn the coupler 180 degrees (not in increments of 90 , iirc)

when we got my Duster going a couple years ago we swapped to manual steering to make room for future headers (and because it used to leak)- I hate it. I feel a lot less confident about the situation EL5 brings up- having to make sudden, unexpected corrections- we're going to put a 416 in it...

this works- or, if you come down to trying the brute force 'wiggle and pull' method, be sure to leave the nut on the same way- saves catching a steering wheel across the forehead when it comes off:D

I'm thinking about swapping my Duster back to power (switched to manual a couple years ago when we put the car back together). After the 416 goes in, I don't like the idea of trying to get it back straight with the manual steering if (when) it starts to go squirrelly.

in the old days, I didn't have huge tires on my Duster (235/60/14) but they were just big enough that they would rub on the inner fender if I had 4 people in the car- the air shocks gave it just enough help to stop that.

hell, my driveway is gravel and not very level at all. When I got my car home last fall, after paint and reassembly, the alignment was so far off it wasn't funny (changed several front end parts, plus the k-member). Couldn't get booked in for an alignment any time soon, and certainly couldn't...

I used a straight edge that fit inside my rim (i.e. a piece of wood), a tape measure, and the 'level' app on my ipod touch.

that's what happened to my Scamp when the crossmember gave up- it slanted a little to the right. Then a little more. Then a helluva lot. I got under to look and concentrated on the right front suspension. I noticed the slack on the t-bar adjuster and thought it was broken. Then I looked back:oops:

same as the ones we used in my Duster, too- I think we seated it about the same way too lol.

we used the autorust caps on my Scamp (the pass. side had torn right out) and they worked good (I'm not saying that's the best way, just that we used them and they worked).

that's about the way my Scamp looked after the torsion bar mount let go, and we fixed it with the autorust parts. But I'd still go with the factory parts that waggin has.

actually, it's a V10, not a V16:D. And I've got a V6 that I love beating V8s with- ya run what ya brung. You can't complain if you have less cylinders (or less turbos lol) when you decide to pull up beside someone.

^I thought the right side should sit higher with SS springs? (can't picture with my Duster how it sits, it has new SS springs under it) edit- reread what you put "Otherwise the car leans to the left"-I misread it the first time...

definitely set the height first. Some people say you can't adjust it at all without ruining the alignment, some (like me) say you can adjust it a little (very little) without changing it enough to hurt it. But definitely set the height first.

hey-nice rims:thumbrig:

the key to that is "loosen nut holding steering wheel on so it is at the end of the shaft", and not 'remove nut completely'. You only need to smack yourself in the forehead with a steering wheel once to learn that part:D

most likely, pressing it out will separate the bushing, and the inner part will stay stuck on the shaft. Might have to cut it off (grind a line down it to split it, off it comes).

yep, now that I have that number I was able to find it on Rock auto- we had actually looked at that earlier, but didn't realize it was the correct part thanks guys...

that was quick-thanks airkiller- I'll check them out (hoping to just change the bushing for now- I wanna get this car done:D) btw, I don't see the bushings- did yours come with them? edit- "control arm pivot shaft"-thanks again, ak. edit again- now that I know the correct term, I found 'Moog...

ok, I need to replace one of these as circled in the picture(the actual bushing pressed into the LCA): does anyone know the correct term? Can't find anything (on Rock Auto, for instance)...or better yet, any chance anyone has a part number? TIA

the way you describe it the repair doesn't sound as bad as I originally feared- thanks cudaman

thanks for the offer, but we have a bunch of parts cars to work with (although it might be easier to take you up on it than to pull another- I'll keep it in mind already thought about that- I'm figuring on reinforcing the other side while we're at it. so there should be a hex-shaped socket...

hey all- trying to understand the way the torsion bar mounts in the crossmember ('73 Scamp). The rusty crossmember busted and the back end of the pass. side torsion bar isn't really torsioned anymore. Or attached, for that matter:(. I've never worked on a torsion bar setup despite many years of...