Rhs Indy X Head Thread

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The engine sounds awesome on the Dyno. Great raspy idle.

Bench pressing 4 speeds sucks and you coil wire is going out priority mail on Monday.
 
Unless I missed it somewhere, can you let those of us watching at home know what the final cost of the cylinder heads were including initial buy in, valve gear, porting work, gaskets, nuts, bolts, etc., shipping back and forth and whatever else came in to play.

Just curious what a set of heads that can make this kind of power will cost.
 
crackedback said:
The engine sounds awesome on the Dyno.

Bench pressing 4 speeds sucks and you coil wire is going out priority mail on Monday.
Click to expand...

Yes that 4 speed is tougher than I am. I am going to raise the car up tomorrow afternoon about 6 inches. My Fat but could barely get in there and move around........haaaaaaa

Thanks Rob for mailing the coil wire!
 
rmchrgr said:
Unless I missed it somewhere, can you let those of us watching at home know what the final cost of the cylinder heads were including initial buy in, valve gear, porting work, gaskets, nuts, bolts, etc., shipping back and forth and whatever else came in to play.

Just curious what a set of heads that can make this kind of power will cost.
Click to expand...

Bare Heads are 320.00 each
Porting Springs valve train and gear is about 1800.00
Rocker arms etc 450.00
Lifters were 160.00
Cam was 160.00
Manton GOOD no bull push rods 138.00
Head Studs are around 140.00
Be careful though I had to call ARP DIRECTLY to get the correct size. There is no kit for the head studs or bolts that I know of yet.
 
Thanks for clarifying Brian........

I did have to notch the K Frame quite a bit more that I thougt, but if you are going to take out the trans and leave the engine in, I didnt want the Pan to get a hole poked in it at tilt!

Motor is in the car, Headers, Flywheel, Clutch and Bell housing.......

The Transmission KICKED MY A$$$ TODAY! By your self that darn 4 SPD is awkward and heavy as all get out! I have stabbed it many times before by myself , today must have just been a bad day I ran out of juice. I should be able to finish it up by next weekend. Christmas Party's and other Family stuff to take care of.
 
Mad Dart, Thanks for posting your combo. Keep us posted as to how you like that torque...LOL Two thumbs up !

Terry
 
Mad Dart said:
Bare Heads are 320.00 each
Porting Springs valve train and gear is about 1800.00
Rocker arms etc 450.00
Lifters were 160.00
Cam was 160.00
Manton GOOD no bull push rods 138.00
Head Studs are around 140.00
Be careful though I had to call ARP DIRECTLY to get the correct size. There is no kit for the head studs or bolts that I know of yet.
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting that. Whatever gasket you ended up using had to have been at least $100 for the set, no?

So it looks like $3K+ for heads that can make somewhere around 510-530 hp depending on how high you spin it, not including cam and lifters or pushrods which look to be around another $460 or so? Do I have that right?
 
For reference: SB eddy heads, ported with 2.055 x 1.60 valves, same springs, same machine work = 2950.00. If you buy them bare and start from scratch.
Plus rockers, gaskets, bolts or studs.
 
My gaskets were felpro 519sd Super duty's $ 56.00 at rock auto for the pair..
They are .054 comressed thickness
 
Hey Mad, is it a stock 4 speed, or are there any mods done to it? 18 or 23 spline? and what diff gear? that thing is going to be a blast with the stick!
 
wow! good numbers, and awesome engine! that is just one mad smallblock! I've never had the chance to hear my engine run yet, the dyno guy said it sounded bad ***, and my dad says it was like a nascar engine...so, i really cant wait to hear mine!
 
Peak TQ was 4800 and peak HP was 5700rpm and HP only dropped a few from there.
It'll be a 6500rpm in the car engine no problem.
Click to expand...

OU812 - Can you (or anyone else) explain why it will make power to 6500 in the car, but not on the engine dyno?
 
Moparmal said:
OU812 - Can you (or anyone else) explain why it will make power to 6500 in the car, but not on the engine dyno?
Click to expand...

I wonder about this too? Is it true?

My engine made max torque at 5100 RPM = 513 ft lbs.
and at 5900 RPM it had a max of 533 hp... I wouldn't see the point for me to rev it much past 6,000 RPM....?
here's me dyno sheet:
dynochart.jpg
 
Moparmal said:
OU812 - Can you (or anyone else) explain why it will make power to 6500 in the car, but not on the engine dyno?
Click to expand...

i really dont know the answer to this, but im going to take a wild guess and say that gearing and converter are going to play a part in this:dontknow:

oh wait, mad's car is a 4 speed....oops....k nvm i have no idea either
 
mshred said:
Hey Mad, is it a stock 4 speed, or are there any mods done to it? 18 or 23 spline? and what diff gear? that thing is going to be a blast with the stick!
Click to expand...

Yes it is a stock 4spd out of my 70 340 4spd Dart 23 spline. I called Brewers and asked them if you could do something to make it stronger and they told me even an 18 spline would not be that much stronger. I guess 3rd gear is the weak link but he said it will handle 600hp in stock trim and that it is a VERY STOUT Trans. He say's if you bank 3rd gear really hard that it could break.

I have 3.55 gears in it now and a brand new Nodular 489 case with new Sure Grip 3.91 set up, Big Yoke 7290 with the U Bolts to hold it down.

I am going to try it with the 3.55 gears and see how it acts. It should still pull it around pretty darn good with all that torque down low.
 
Mad Dart said:
Yes it is a stock 4spd out of my 70 340 4spd Dart 23 spline. I called Brewers and asked them if you could do something to make it stronger and they told me even an 18 spline would not be that much stronger. I guess 3rd gear is the weak link but he said it will handle 600hp in stock trim and that it is a VERY STOUT Trans. He say's if you bank 3rd gear really hard that it could break.

I have 3.55 gears in it now and a brand new Nodular 489 case with new Sure Grip 3.91 set up, Big Yoke 7290 with the U Bolts to hold it down.

I am going to try it with the 3.55 gears and see how it acts. It should still pull it around pretty darn good with all that torque down low.
Click to expand...

sounds good man! i didnt know that the 23 splines could take that much since there are alot who bash them...either way it should be a fun ride even with the 3.55's...she'll pull man!
 
rmchrgr said:
Thanks for posting that. Whatever gasket you ended up using had to have been at least $100 for the set, no?

So it looks like $3K+ for heads that can make somewhere around 510-530 hp depending on how high you spin it, not including cam and lifters or pushrods which look to be around another $460 or so? Do I have that right?
Click to expand...




no , and where are you going with this?:poke::blah5:

Choice of parts and their respective cost along with shop rate and personal ability ultimately dictate what the average joe will pay.
 
Moparmal said:
OU812 - Can you (or anyone else) explain why it will make power to 6500 in the car, but not on the engine dyno?
Click to expand...

Reading my statement, I said it will be a 6500rpm engine once in the car, not make HP to 6500rpm!

If you have an engine that makes 500HP at 5700rpm, and maintains within 10HP of that for 500rpm after peak, you need to run past peak in order to take advantage of that HP. It takes TIME for the engine to put that to the wheels and accelerate the car so you need to rev the engine past 5700 rpm and in this case it'll probably like between 6200-6500 before a shift.
But having said that...once he puts exhaust on the car, and ANY changes made from dyno testing can lead to less rpm or less HP in the car.

I had a customer dyno a 505 Mopar and made 768HP at 6400rpm and he said at the track it ran best shifting at 6200rpm....????
So I started asking him questions about what he changed and basicly he added an exhaust system with cutouts that unbolt and that's how he ran it.

Well they were 6" too short over the extensions we used on the dyno to get good HP so he dropped the system (which weigh'd roughly 60lbs.)and added the correct extensions and picked up 3mph and .2 with no other changes!!
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
It's the weight momentum moving it to say the least.
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DEFINITION:

Inertia is the name for the tendency of an object in motion to remain in motion, or an object at rest to remain at rest, unless acted upon by a force.

I guess once an object is moving at a certain speed it takes less to keep it there........

Anyone else??
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
no , and where are you going with this?:poke::blah5:

Choice of parts and their respective cost along with shop rate and personal ability ultimately dictate what the average joe will pay.
Click to expand...

Time, Ability and $$ is what it comes down to.

I lack the first 2........that is why I pay someone else...Keeps the world turning.
 
ou812 said:
Reading my statement, I said it will be a 6500rpm engine once in the car, not make HP to 6500rpm!

If you have an engine that makes 500HP at 5700rpm, and maintains within 10HP of that for 500rpm after peak, you need to run past peak in order to take advantage of that HP. It takes TIME for the engine to put that to the wheels and accelerate the car so you need to rev the engine past 5700 rpm and in this case it'll probably like between 6200-6500 before a shift.
But having said that...once he puts exhaust on the car, and ANY changes made from dyno testing can lead to less rpm or less HP in the car.

I had a customer dyno a 505 Mopar and made 768HP at 6400rpm and he said at the track it ran best shifting at 6200rpm....????
So I started asking him questions about what he changed and basicly he added an exhaust system with cutouts that unbolt and that's how he ran it.

Well they were 6" too short over the extensions we used on the dyno to get good HP so he dropped the system (which weigh'd roughly 60lbs.)and added the correct extensions and picked up 3mph and .2 with no other changes!!
Click to expand...

hey man thanks for that info! you learn something new everyday!:toothy7:
 
Mad Dart said:
Time, Ability and $$ is what it comes down to.

I lack the first 2........that is why I pay someone else...Keeps the world turning.
Click to expand...

right, just a response to what just sounded like pot stirring.

Just saying I wouldn't use this as an ''how much it costs to use these heads'' kinda thing, others might use $50 push rods and 273 rockers so thats boo koo$$ saved right there for some.
As the level go's up, so can the co$t.
 
Mad Dart said:
Bare Heads are 320.00 each
Porting Springs valve train and gear is about 1800.00
Rocker arms etc 450.00
Lifters were 160.00
Cam was 160.00
Manton GOOD no bull push rods 138.00
Head Studs are around 140.00
Be careful though I had to call ARP DIRECTLY to get the correct size. There is no kit for the head studs or bolts that I know of yet.
Click to expand...
Are you saying that you spent $1800 for port work and setting up the heads ,including valves,springs,seals,retainers and locks. Is there anything else included in that price?
 
Head porting, intake manifold porting, 8mm Ferrea valves, Comp beehive spring setup, hone guides to 8mm, mill spring pads down for springs and .600 lift, mill guide tops down for retainer to seal clearance, valve job, surface cut, hot tank, and assemble/set spring heights plus seals and checking chamber volume on both heads.
Plus is was done right...I believe he spent more and got way less with someone else????

The valves are more expensive than 11/32 valves, be everything else is the same as any head.
That also includes flow testing before, after and with the intake manifold bolted to the head.
Oh and I set up the rockers for him on the heads, cleaned the shafts out, set the side clearance on the heads. Louis didn't want to bother with that.
It's all just labor....You should price an Indy setup with everything corrected/clearanced and setup to run...you'd think this was a basement bargain!!!!
 
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