mikedevore
Well-Known Member
360's, the best kept secret out there.
Stock stroke 360 on the dyno
- Thread starter RAMM
- Start date
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inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
People can be real a-holes. Shop I worked at a guy called complaining that his motor did not run right. Went to pick it up and there was a Mudder sitting in the driveway. The truck was clean but the driveway was covered in mud. Starting tearing it apart and seen 2 pistons with the valve reliefs turned 90* & all holes had rust forming on them....My boss just called him and told him to come & get his crap out of the shop. Apparently some people think everyone is as stupid as they are.....
hardcore5657
Well-Known Member
RAMM just wondering how long it takes to put something like that together?
dusterdan
Sublime Member
RAAM, did you use stock crank/rods in the buildup? Also, what was total compression coming out to? Thanks this is a sweet motor would be badass in any A-body!!!
moper
Well-Known Member
Meaning I didn't know how you got that much lift. Where I go he uses chevy valves but I think (and I could be wrong) he's limited to .550.
RAMM
Well-Known Member
Yeah that is pretty much what I use. 11/32" stem Chevy based valves. In this particular case I used Ferrea's that are usually used in a Ferd Cleveland. I don't really like being limited in choice by the 8mm stem, retainer, lock , seal thing. J.Rob
RAMM
Well-Known Member
Well now that I have all of the part numbers and know what it takes machining and parts compatibility wise, I could replicate this in 2 to 3 weeks, possibly improving on output too. J.Rob
RAMM
Well-Known Member
Total static compression came in at 10-1 on the nose.
The crank was a stock Magnum crank ground .010/.010" and the rods were Scat Ibeams with Icon flat top forgings. Yeah this engine should really be a nice engine with the power to surprise. I think what I like best is the way it idles so nicely and that lash is not something he or I will worry about with the hydraulic roller. I'm starting to really like certain hydraulic roller lobes as they can come darn close to a solid roller in some cases. J.Rob
RAMM
Well-Known Member
That's what I've been saying for years. I built a real cheap 360 for my Aspen 12 years ago--This thing was cheap , stock crank, stock rods, SpeedPro H116 484/484 Purple (you know the one) and J heads with stock stamped steel rockers that I stuck 2.02/1.6 Chevy valves with a trick valve job and a Weiand Stealth-oh and a Thermoquad. It made a dyno verified 401 hp @ 5900 and 417 ft/lbs @ 4600 rpm. All my buddies at the time had Chev big blocks, Chev 400's with Dart heads and all that good stuff. I couldn't be beat on the street as the power curve was just so nice and friendly (real revvy). At the track it went 12.5s @ 108 and I could run door handle to door handle with most. Oh and the best part was that I raced on MacEwen's (not great) 89 octane. The next engine I played with for myself was a 408---Yeah it was powerful but failed to impress me nonetheless. I miss that 360.Here's a pic J.Rob
View attachment Volarspen Oct '05 001.jpg
Copper Dart
Well-Known Member
Ramm, If I may pick you brain?
I was lucky enough to come across a Russ Bartfield built 360 '76 block that was sitting on a shelf maybe 10+ years. Russ was one of the best builders in south Florida, Hollywood area when I was learning to drive/destroy cars. I heard he move to Arizona many years ago.
The engine has been balanced, bored .030, stock rod #3418645, a set of speed pro forged pistons #2380P. I believe its a stock stroke crank 3.58" and the .030 = 4.03 bore. the pistons top off just shy of the deck, maybe .035. it came with a Crane Cams Fireball 300A - 447 lift both with 222' intake and 232' exhaust duration. What cylinder head and intake/carb set up would you recommend? I was leaning toward the Edelbrock performer rpm. I would rather have a "TORQUE MONSTER" than a high revving engine. What can I do to Finnish this build to optimize it's torque potential without breaking the bank. Changing the cam wouldn't bother me. It will be going in my '70 Swinger 727 83/4 355, a Street and Show car, not a Race car.
Thanks
Copper Dart:burnout:
I was lucky enough to come across a Russ Bartfield built 360 '76 block that was sitting on a shelf maybe 10+ years. Russ was one of the best builders in south Florida, Hollywood area when I was learning to drive/destroy cars. I heard he move to Arizona many years ago.
The engine has been balanced, bored .030, stock rod #3418645, a set of speed pro forged pistons #2380P. I believe its a stock stroke crank 3.58" and the .030 = 4.03 bore. the pistons top off just shy of the deck, maybe .035. it came with a Crane Cams Fireball 300A - 447 lift both with 222' intake and 232' exhaust duration. What cylinder head and intake/carb set up would you recommend? I was leaning toward the Edelbrock performer rpm. I would rather have a "TORQUE MONSTER" than a high revving engine. What can I do to Finnish this build to optimize it's torque potential without breaking the bank. Changing the cam wouldn't bother me. It will be going in my '70 Swinger 727 83/4 355, a Street and Show car, not a Race car.
Thanks
Copper Dart:burnout:
Copper Dart
Well-Known Member
subscribed
RAMM
Well-Known Member
If your pistons really are .035" in the hole then you need to address that and get them either -.005" or closer to zero. If your pistons are Speed-Pro 2386's they have a 1.591" comp ht--You are going to have a hard time getting them to zero deck without a lot of deck milling. If your piston-deck relationship is what I think it is-then you absolutely need Magnum style cylinder heads either the EQ's or RHS's-Their closed, compact chamber will be of great benefit. You could do better with a modern cam grind-think Lunati VooDoo here-they really work well all around. Top it off with a good dual plane either the Weiand Stealth or Eddy RPM and a 650-750 VS carb. You should wind up with a real strong power curve that needs nothing more than common pump fuel. J.Rob
Nice build RAMM,basic common sense,up to date build.
Copper Dart
Well-Known Member
Thanks so much RAMM.
Not to sound stupid, but I don't know what a EQ's or RHS are other than a cylinder head.
I guess I need the "engine building for DUMMIES" book.
With the set up you recommend, is the valve train stock 360?
Thanks again,
rayer:Copper Dart
Not to sound stupid, but I don't know what a EQ's or RHS are other than a cylinder head.
I guess I need the "engine building for DUMMIES" book.
With the set up you recommend, is the valve train stock 360?
Thanks again,
rayer:Copper Dart
Copper Dart
Well-Known Member
P.S. You're right, the piston is .100" shy of the top of the cylinder.
Will the heads and intake you recommend still accept the factory a/c and p/s?
Copper Dart
Will the heads and intake you recommend still accept the factory a/c and p/s?
Copper Dart
RAMM
Well-Known Member
Lol-just got a like on this thread which is why it popped up on my radar. FYI--The kid never paid me for the gaskets on the repaired and dyno tested 360. I think the bill was $240 ish for head/intake gaskets. Stay classy San Diego. J.Rob
This is why I don't build engines for anybody but family and a few best friends anymore. I can top stories like this. Best of luck and thanks for sharing your experience.
jeffnmo
Just another Mopar Maniac
No wonder I can't stand people!
Jeff
Jeff
The EQ & RHS are aftermarket heads. EQ is simply known as EQ and the RHS is IIRC, Racing HeD Service.Thanks so much RAMM.
Not to sound stupid, but I don't know what a EQ's or RHS are other than a cylinder head.
I guess I need the "engine building for DUMMIES" book.
With the set up you recommend, is the valve train stock 360?
Thanks again,
Both heads are the same with one head being drilled for the Magnum engine and one head being drilled for the LA engine. These are designed as replacement heads that use all stock equipment. They also perform better as cast and porting the head shows massive gains.
Yes
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Because they're forged pistons... however after enough it could happen.
Now the upper rod bearings ... that's a concern.
EXACTLY why I stopped as well. I have a few engines left that are built and when they are gone, I will very rarely if at all build another.
RAMM
Well-Known Member
Checked a couple of bearings at the time-They looked fine. I had a feeling I would get stiffed so I resisted the urge to tear it completely down and go nuts. J.Rob
Are you saying that the EQ and the RHS heads are the same except for the intake manifold drilling? 'Cause I have both heads here in the shop and I could might disagree.
No, though I probably wasn’t very clear on it considering your post.
Being that you have both heads in the shop and dealt with them before, do ether or both of the heads have the ability under the valve cover to be used as a Magnum or LA head?
This is what I was remembering. If I’m at fault, let me know!
Hah.........and now our dyno is drained and the whole kit-and-kaboodle is stuffed in a corner. We could drag it out and reconnect in a few hours, but the shop is filling with Cody's art.
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