Is this a yes to both? I only have a cut off wheel and a torch, but Idk how to use the torch lol
TKX vs T56
- Thread starter DentalDart
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Is this a yes to both? I only have a cut off wheel and a torch, but Idk how to use the torch lol
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
It is. I was trying to be a little cheeky with my answer. “Yes and yes”. The torch (if oxy/acetylene) I would not use. It’s probably overkill for sheetmetal. Plasma yes though. And a cutoff wheel on a grinder is a definite yes.
Angle grinder with a cut off wheel. Or a sawzall depending on the cut.
Plasma cutter would be slick but I don’t have one.
Oxy/acetylene torch is a tad aggressive for this stuff
1WildRT
Well-Known Member
Everyone does fabrication differently, use what tools materials & skills you have...
End of the day whether you choose a five speed or a six speed you're gonna love it... The fun it brings to driving is a game changer...
In years past both my Challengers were automatics...I swapped out driving duties practically ever time I when for a drive... About a year ago I swapped a five speed into the red one.... Sorry to say, the green one is feeling pretty neglected
End of the day whether you choose a five speed or a six speed you're gonna love it... The fun it brings to driving is a game changer...
In years past both my Challengers were automatics...I swapped out driving duties practically ever time I when for a drive... About a year ago I swapped a five speed into the red one.... Sorry to say, the green one is feeling pretty neglected
Well plasma cutters are cheap, so I’ll get one. I already have the crossmember so it’s can play with the parts car.
Did you do the tkx then?
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
I bought the T56 for my 69 dart still sitting in its box before the TKX was available. No regrets I've always wanted a 6 speed old muscle car.
1WildRT
Well-Known Member
I installed a TKO.... A buddy with a Cuda bought the TKO twenty plus years ago for a project... The car went through a lot of upgrades before it ever hit the road the first time... It only got driven about 500 miles... He built a much hotter engine than was the plan when the trans was chosen... He didn't like the ratios with the big horsepower, wanted a closer ratio trans... Bought the TKX & gave me the TKO for my labor in doing the swap....
I bought some parts from Silver State, machined some custom parts & installed a reproduction four speed bubble on my floor... With an E body I didn't need to modify the crossmember, just had to massage the floor some...
Plasma cutters are nice for a lot of jobs, but completely overkill for this job.... I mostly used a Harbor Freight air powered jigsaw....
The bulk of what I needed to do was add the floor hump..
I dropped it in place, traced around it, removed it, cut 1" inside the line, stitch welded the hump in, then from the bottom trimmed the flange closer to the hump... Then hammer & dollied the edge tight to the hump & stitch welded the bottom.. Finally I seam sealed the whole hump & painted everything to match...
After that a few test fitting, a little hammer work to massage in a little clearance & I was good to go..
Sounds like the A body requires quite bit more work...
the HF air body saw is what's up!
i love that stupid little thing. i use it constantly.
Nice friend.
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
I have the T56 Magnum with the 2.97 1st and the .64 OD ratio -> the car both performs better (accellerates in 1st like a 3.5:1 axle (assuming stock 2.66 4-speed) with 3.23's).
I have EFI and virtually any speed above 50 mph I can use 6th gear. Will pull a hill at 1400 rpm no problem. This is with a 340. My car has a sizeable cam and I did Power Tour 2025 with it, it is not at all tuned for economy and I averaged 19 mpg. The 6-speed itself was worth almost 2mpg when I'm in town and 4-5 on the highway with everything else being the same.
It also shifts great and if it ever needs repair parts it's almost completely a TR6060.
When I did the swap I used a "T56 swap" floor patch section for a Chevelle and cut and bent the floor to match. Mostly used a body saw and cut off tool.
Topic:T56 Magnum Conversion
When you're already cutting, just to the little extra work to get a T56 Magnum over a TKX. I would do it again in a heartbeat.
I have EFI and virtually any speed above 50 mph I can use 6th gear. Will pull a hill at 1400 rpm no problem. This is with a 340. My car has a sizeable cam and I did Power Tour 2025 with it, it is not at all tuned for economy and I averaged 19 mpg. The 6-speed itself was worth almost 2mpg when I'm in town and 4-5 on the highway with everything else being the same.
It also shifts great and if it ever needs repair parts it's almost completely a TR6060.
When I did the swap I used a "T56 swap" floor patch section for a Chevelle and cut and bent the floor to match. Mostly used a body saw and cut off tool.
Topic:T56 Magnum Conversion
When you're already cutting, just to the little extra work to get a T56 Magnum over a TKX. I would do it again in a heartbeat.
What patch panel is that?
1WildRT
Well-Known Member
Justin, do you already have a bell housing for the trans swap ?
No I don’t have a bell housing, just a TKX cross member since I bought it a while ago when it went on sale for like 70 bucks instead of 700.
@Car Nut i already got a quote for the TKX but haven’t gotten one for the t56.
Can I ask what the quote was?
6200 shipped with steel flywheel, aluminum bell housing (not QuickTime) and upgraded McLeod clutch (I believe) and everything needed to do auto to manual conversion shipped to my house for the TKX.
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Thanks, that’s not bad for all that.
The aluminum bell housing may require more tunnel work. I know the aluminum bell housing out there for the T56 swap has a larger profile than the Quicktime and requires more clearance at the front pinch weld where the floor joins the firewall.
Duster360LA
Well-Known Member
I run a TKX in my 74 Duster (moderately built 360 with 3.55 gearing) and I love the setup. Pulls strong in first through fourth when I want to have a bit of fun, but I can just enjoy a Sunday drive and drop it into fifth at about 55 mph and cruise. I live in the country, so much of my driving in on 65 mph roads.
Installation was some fairly easy crossmember mods, but I did not have to touch the trans tunnel to get it in.
Installation was some fairly easy crossmember mods, but I did not have to touch the trans tunnel to get it in.
1WildRT
Well-Known Member
I would say that right there is the info that was missing from this thread...
70 dart….I have the TKX…. Was a pretty simple straight forward install. Floorboard didn’t need to be cut as much as the template asked for in the long run, wish I could go back and not cut as much…. And the crossmember needed more than was required to clear. The bell housing area needed zero cutting. I also boxed in the ends of the crossmember that I cut. Made my own clutch stop because there was way too much pedal travel before/past the engagement/disengagement point. I’m sure I could have adjusted that out… but if I did the clutch and brake pedal wouldn’t be near as close to even and that looked goofy to me. First 500 miles was awesome….like heaven on earth…. Loved it…. Now it’s coming back out for warranty work. Won’t go into gears randomly and got way nosier. Clutch in…. Clutch out…. Rev engine… nothing… the gear shifter just hits a brick wall and won’t go into gear. Thats the short of it. Eventually after jacking with it… it goes. I won’t say what vendor…just yet…. but they have been good to deal with so far. No magnetic material when I drained the break in fluid… just lots of non ferrous swirling around. I used my borescope and couldn’t see anything out of norm. My guess… synchros gave out.
The only other thing I wish Tremec would fix is that bullShhhhhh orange plug they ship them with that gets hammered in and is damn near impossible to get out. Usually have to damage the seal to get it out.
I have 577 engine dynoed ft lbs…. Maybe the TKX couldn’t handle it??? Idk. Sure hope that’s not the case and it doesn’t keep breaking after repairs.
The only other thing I wish Tremec would fix is that bullShhhhhh orange plug they ship them with that gets hammered in and is damn near impossible to get out. Usually have to damage the seal to get it out.
I have 577 engine dynoed ft lbs…. Maybe the TKX couldn’t handle it??? Idk. Sure hope that’s not the case and it doesn’t keep breaking after repairs.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Betting you didn’t rebuild the top of the crossmember after cutting it out? That’s the only way I can see not needing to touch the tunnel. Either that or the tail is hanging fairly low.
Just me, but I am a firm believer in maintaining the structure of the crossmember.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I struggled with which way to go, too. I liked the lower cost and smaller size of the TKX, and I found people beating the snot out of them without issues (outside of the one above). But the OD ratios always ended up on the shorter side to me, more so since I was planning a G3 swap with EFI and knew those could cruise at 65 mph at 1500 rpm with ease.
In the end I went with a T56 Magnum from SST. I was pretty sure I was going to regret a TKX, not because it is a bad choice but because I would always wonder if a T56 would have been better. So I just bought the one I knew I wanted.
In the end I went with a T56 Magnum from SST. I was pretty sure I was going to regret a TKX, not because it is a bad choice but because I would always wonder if a T56 would have been better. So I just bought the one I knew I wanted.
No need… I have no torsion bars, but I did form a couple of ends to box in where I cut. Just realized you weren’t quoting me…. But still… I didnt.
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