**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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Worked on the car again for about 6 hours. I got all the hard fuel lines bent up, made sure my 1 off fancy hillbilly engineered vent is going to work. The fuel sending unit was hitting the bottom of the tank and the pick up too so clearance'd them both. The only thing I will be using is the sending unit. I will be TIG Welding the stock pick up and the stock return line on both ends so it don't have a chance of leaking.
I thought I had all of the tube nuts and sleeves for the hard line but I was wrong. I had the 12 Tube nuts but....... no tube sleeves so I ordered them. I hope they get here at least by friday so I can keep at it.
 
Well no parts came today........ That suxxxx..... So today I roughed in the vent for the gas tank. I ended up doing it a bit different than I first was going to do it. I also got the new bracket built for the regulator. I used the same holes that were used for the old regulator. This is why I had to build one. I hate drilling holes all over the place. Lil stuff like building the new bracket is time consuming. It took me about 2 hours to build the lil bugger.

I also painted the trunk springs. I found a color at autozone that is pretty darn close. I primed them black so the green would be a lil darker and they match real well, I was surprised.

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Nice work Louis!Funny,today I was working on my regulator/fuel line also,adding a new fuel pressure gauge and fittings.I had a good chuckle seeing your pic with the regulator/pressure gauge in your hand.LOL
 
pettybludart said:
Nice work Louis!Funny,today I was working on my regulator/fuel line also,adding a new fuel pressure gauge and fittings.I had a good chuckle seeing your pic with the regulator/pressure gauge in your hand.LOL
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LOL yeah that is funny! I heard your doing all kinda stuff to your car. Transbrake etc..... Getting it ready to go have some fun!!:burnout:

Waiting on parts is the hardest thing.. If I keep going on the lil stuff until the parts get here it just takes FOREVER to get anything done and nothing goes right the first time..... Maybe it is just me?:banghead:

My punch list of work to get done on the car for tomorrow is ready. Only 13 things to accomplish after I go get some satin black paint in the morning... I hope tomorrow is a productive day and I quit tripping over myself. haaaaaa:happy1:
 
Got a lil more done today. I really need them parts to get here.

I am not using the factory fuel feed or return lines so I TIG Welded them closed on both ends. I was worried about the sending unit melting and then leaking so after I got all done I mounted it in the tank and tested it for leaks. I used a wet towel around the sending unit when I welded it up. No leaks at all.....:D

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just wondering were did you run the end of that vent tube did you drill into the fill tube or run it next to it under the cap mine is not hooked up either and will have to do something with my vent also
 
leathermandan said:
just wondering were did you run the end of that vent tube did you drill into the fill tube or run it next to it under the cap mine is not hooked up either and will have to do something with my vent also
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It comes off the stock vent nipple on the tank, runs up the filler neck and there is a splice with a rubber hose that connects the looped section. The end of that tube exits to the bottom of the car. I ordered a small lil filter that will go on the tube end where it exits under the trunk pan. I will be adding a grommet where the tube goes through the trunk pan, Ill post pictures of it when its all done. it hangs down about 2-3". My Sand Rail gas tank was vented like that to the bottom of the car. At the end of that tube a Piece of a sponge was zip tied to it.
 
Once in tech line at the races. An inspector gave me grief about mounting the fuel regulator in about that position on the fender. Mentioned something about the converter or flex plate coming apart and being a fire problem. Not sure if any others here have had that problem but just figured I would mention it.
 
I would never mount the regulator there,just due to the heat alone.Thats just me though.Maybe extend the line to further up the fender well towards the rad support.Here,s mine..
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My alternator might be getting moved to lower drivers side in future.
 
pettybludart said:
I would never mount the regulator there,just due to the heat alone.Thats just me though.Maybe extend the line to further up the fender well towards the rad support.Here,s mine..
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My alternator might be getting moved to lower drivers side in future.
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zhandfull, Once in tech line at the races. An inspector gave me grief about mounting the fuel regulator in about that position on the fender. Mentioned something about the converter or flex plate coming apart and being a fire problem. Not sure if any others here have had that problem but just figured I would mention it.
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I understand what you guys are saying but unless you are routing the fuel lines by crossing over the frame under the car and coming into the engine compartment from the inner fender well and then on top of the fender well you all have the same issue. If a fuel line is passing by the Trans/Converter/Flex Plate then moving the regulator to a different spot is not going to help you if something comes apart. It is going to cut your fuel line regardless.

If the regulator was bolted to the firewall then it would be a Tech Issue for sure.
 
DARTGAME said:
Are you driving it to MATS or towing? Looks good btw. The lower blocks look bigger than 2".

Ian
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Was going to tow it but as of now my parts will not be here in time.

The blocks are angled. I measured them and they are TWO inches at the biggest part.
 
Hope your parts get there. Blocks just look bigger than 2". I got super stocks w/ 1.5" block on mine. I'm in the same boat as you, waiting for axles from summit and seals for the my fuel tank from year one.
 
DARTGAME said:
Hope your parts get there. Blocks just look bigger than 2". I got super stocks w/ 1.5" block on mine. I'm in the same boat as you, waiting for axles from summit and seals for the my fuel tank from year one.
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Ok, now you got me second guessing myself......lol , I am going to measure them again tomorrow.

I hope your stuff gets here also. I ordered my tank from a guy on Ebay. Took 4 days to get here.

With me it is tough because I am using an fittings and if I forget 1 thing it cost me a week to get it.
 
Mad Dart said:
Ok, now you got me second guessing myself......lol , I am going to measure them again tomorrow.

I hope your stuff gets here also. I ordered my tank from a guy on Ebay. Took 4 days to get here.

With me it is tough because I am using an fittings and if I forget 1 thing it cost me a week to get it.
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Hey Louis,

I have a fitting supplier here in the UK that i get most of my stuff from, but I have used Sweet Performance in Placentia CA for some of the more unusual adapters etc. I'm pretty sure I got them in under a week so I would think they'd get to you one heck of a lot quicker!
 
Mad Dart said:
Ok, now you got me second guessing myself......lol , I am going to measure them again tomorrow.

I hope your stuff gets here also. I ordered my tank from a guy on Ebay. Took 4 days to get here.

With me it is tough because I am using an fittings and if I forget 1 thing it cost me a week to get it.
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Not giving you any grief about the blocks, just optical illusion I guess. As long as the car hooks and goes straight that is what matters!
 
MoparAnglia said:
Hey Louis,

I have a fitting supplier here in the UK that i get most of my stuff from, but I have used Sweet Performance in Placentia CA for some of the more unusual adapters etc. I'm pretty sure I got them in under a week so I would think they'd get to you one heck of a lot quicker!
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I also found a local place for AN and NPT fittings called FastLine.AN fittings here in Canada cost anywhere from $15.99-$20.When buying from FastLine I only pay $2.35 :prayer:The only thing is they,re not aluminum,instead they,re stainless.no biggie.Just sayin...
 
pettybludart said:
I also found a local place for AN and NPT fittings called FastLine.AN fittings here in Canada cost anywhere from $15.99-$20.When buying from FastLine I only pay $2.35 :prayer:The only thing is they,re not aluminum,instead they,re stainless.no biggie.Just sayin...
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Yeah the Steel is always cheaper. I try to keep with the color scheme when I can. But I like steel when it is going into steel for sure. Like tank sumps etc.
 
All I can say guys is when you buy a car you REALLY need to check out the fuel system and the wiring. The fuel pump trigger wire that was ran was spliced together in 3 places and it is only a 15' wire. I guess no wasted wires in that shop. Also the battery was moved to the trunk and I traced that wire from front to back there is NO Grommet going thru the firewall....... This car was a MAJOR fire hazard waiting to happen between the fuel system and the wiring I am in shock it did not catch on fire. All non factory wiring is just STABBED into the fuse block on 1 side of the fuse. The fuel pump was the same way. I touched that wire on accident and it fell right off.......... Damn, maybe the fuel pump was turning on and off whenever it felt like it. The ground to the old pump in the back was totally HILLBILLY Hacked also, very loose connection right by the leaking fuel tank..... Not good!

I also found a LINE LOCK switch under the floor board that is wired to HOT..........I seen the Roll control by the master cylinder but I could not see any wires coming off of it.

Got a bit more done today. Fuel pump is all wired in the right way with a RELAY and 20 amp fuse. I ran a new trigger wire to the front of the car that I will splice into a Keyed 12v source to turn the Relay on. The fuel tank is all sealed and painted. That stuff from northern is some nasty chit. I painted my welds and it made them look like crap. I guess the main thing is it should not leak ever.

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DARTGAME said:
Not giving you any grief about the blocks, just optical illusion I guess. As long as the car hooks and goes straight that is what matters!
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Ok I stand corrected..... You were right, the block in the rear is 2.5" on the back side and 1.75" on the front side. The pinion adjustment is built into the block. After I get the car back on the ground I will verify that the pinion angle is correct.
 
Mad Dart said:
Ok I stand corrected..... You were right, the block in the rear is 2.5" on the back side and 1.75" on the front side. The pinion adjustment is built into the block. After I get the car back on the ground I will verify that the pinion angle is correct.
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hey i was thinking about setting it up that way.i have 2 inch blocks and xhd mancini springs.without the blocks the car reminded me of the seventies when everybody was using those gabrial highjackers. not my style ilike the car almost level...nice work louis.cars gonna be disney free.....
 
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