318 budget build

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Slantsix64 said:
Okay so I see, so I should tell Oregon to have the cam grounded to 4 degrees advance so I just put the camshaft in dot to dot, if they can't then I will have to do it my self moving the markers on the timing chain.
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You got it....
 
When you call them, tell them what your doing and what you want to achieve.
 
If this is a regrind and the core was ground not 4 degrees advanced from straight up the new lobe may not fit without large base circle reduction

new cam may then be anywhere- gotta check

Everyone keep on the same page as to 4 degrees advanced from straight up and advancing a 4 degree ground advanced cam(when at dot to dot) an additional 4 degrees (or whatever)
remember that advancing the intake lobe 4 degrees may help DCR
However it also opens the exhaust 4 degrees earlier costing power- an effect which is greater on a low compression motor
 
Update. ended up making some money off the TBI fan alt smog pump ac compressor etc. Sold it all for $80.00, guy got a pretty good deal.....

So im at $255.26 now.

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01414_b27QYoTDbh0_600x450.jpg
 
Also Pulled oil pan there was a little be of some slug an the bottom of the pan, but let me tell you the bores still have the cross hatch pattern!
 
What are your guys opinon on Hughes mechanical pump snout adapter for the roller camshaft? this motor did not come with it. and i do not want to run anything electric, no thanks China.
 
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Slantsix64 said:
What are your guys opinon on Hughes mechanical pump snout adapter for the roller camshaft? this motor did not come with it. and i do not want to run anything electric, no thanks China.
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I used one so I could run a gear drive and keep my mechanical fuel pump. Don't think I used all of it for what I was doing, but it worked and saved me from making something.
 
Update, oregeon cams finally finished the grind guys are busy up there! For the roller camshaft grind 1006 came out to 150.00. Not bad cause roller cams are pricey and the grinds out there aren't that great for my application.
 
So I'm at estimated $400.26. Now I need to get a degree wheel, anyone wanna let me borrow one? Lol
 
I loaned mine out but will pm U if I can get it back
Harbor freight Whittier and Paramount
Take your bolt so you can get one with the big center hole or you can drill and tap your bolt for a bolt
Motor in the car or on the stand?
need help post back
remember the crank key does NOT go straight up
what grind did you get?
 
Wyrmrider said:
I loaned mine out but will pm U if I can get it back
Harbor freight Whittier and Paramount
Take your bolt so you can get one with the big center hole or you can drill and tap your bolt for a bolt
Motor in the car or on the stand?
need help post back
remember the crank key does NOT go straight up
what grind did you get?
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Motors out of car on the stand, yeah I know I done timing chains before and cam swaps just not advancing
 
Here's the full camshaft specs , 260Intake/264exhaust duration .437/.453 lift duration @.050 203/208 lobe center 108/112
Grind Number #1006
 
That grind is very close to the original r/t cam mopar sold for the magnum engines. .050" 204/208, advertised 260/264 LSA 114 ICL 109. .458" in .467" ex. Have this cam in my 5.2L dakota with 1.7 rr's. Ported heads, shorties, M1 EFI intake. 247rwhp and consistent 17 city 21 hwy US MPG
 
dartfever said:
That grind is very close to the original r/t cam mopar sold for the magnum engines. .050" 204/208, advertised 260/264 LSA 114 ICL 109. .458" in .467" ex. Have this cam in my 5.2L dakota with 1.7 rr's. Ported heads, shorties, M1 EFI intake. 247rwhp and consistent 17 city 21 hwy US MPG
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Yup city mileage is what im after
 
Looking at the cam card, does this mean the cam already has 4 degree advance in it? Probably call oregon cams tomo, when i asked them to put 4degrees in the cam they said there would be no cam left lol

001.jpg
 
Slantsix64 said:
Looking at the cam card, does this mean the cam already has 4 degree advance in it? Probably call oregon cams tomo, when i asked them to put 4degrees in the cam they said there would be no cam left lol

View attachment 1715357716
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That is ground on a 110 lobe separation angle. I doubt that there was enough lobe on the core to make it so "lining up the dots" would pit the intake centerline at 106 if that's where Kenny wants it installed. So...that means you need to use an offset key, or a crank gear with multiple keyways.

This is why you always Always ALWAYS degree the cam.

I guess you can time of off the at .050 lifter rise of you have to. But it still needs to be checked. I thought Kenny used to put an ICL on the card but I don't see that on yours.
 
yellow rose said:
That is ground on a 110 lobe separation angle. I doubt that there was enough lobe on the core to make it so "lining up the dots" would pit the intake centerline at 106 if that's where Kenny wants it installed. So...that means you need to use an offset key, or a crank gear with multiple keyways.

This is why you always Always ALWAYS degree the cam.

I guess you can time of off the at .050 lifter rise of you have to. But it still needs to be checked. I thought Kenny used to put an ICL on the card but I don't see that on yours.
Click to expand...
sounds good, yeah i have a melling double roller chain which can advance by 4 or retard by 4
 
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