Advantages of a stroker for daily driver

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1973dusterkid said:
I will most likely go with a 833 or 904 justy to keep it simple and a crate motor was what I was thinking but I guess I would like to build it myself and learn.

Anyone have input on these

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K20-226-4/ Way too big for anything with a stock bottom end.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K20-248-4/ Way WAY too big for a stock bottom end.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/D...ut I feel honesty is the best policy)[/COLOR]
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I found the link. My bad, he wants $400 for the rebuilt 360/727 combo.

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/2816568769.html

Find a deal like this. Throw a couple extra hundred dollars at it to get it in your car, and you're driving instead of dreaming. Cause let's face it, that's what you're doing. Picking cams for a non existing motor?!?
 
That's a pretty big cam what were you thinking of putting it in? For a milder street engine you don't want much more duration than 230* @ .050" unless you've got the compression/cubic inches to keep up with it.
 
you should keep your eye out for a wrecked durango or dodge van or pickup

a lot of them have 360's just there for the pickin'

dont go too wild on the cam then you need a high stall converter, which will kill mileage

just grab a 360, put a moderate cam, keep the converter that came off the 360 add an aluminum intake nice carb and cruise :D

you can probably pick up a used 4bbl and rebuild it (sticky in the fuel section of the forum)

if you get real lucky you can find a low mileage 360
 
prices are a little higher now, and they spent money on things they didnt need. valve covers, brand new carb...

heads are half the cost... if you built smart on the other stuff this could be your luxury item :D

they left out new pistons / hot tankining the engine

i mean if you are taking all down and balancing, wouldnt you probably have the block dipped, honed (bored if needed)?

you can also pick up a used 360 for much less than $350 if you shop around.
 
YES! The machine work is missing from the build. Prices are more expensive now. Under $1300 for heads, under $300 for roller rockers, etc....
 
rumblefish360 said:
YES! The machine work is missing from the build. Prices are more expensive now. Under $1300 for heads, under $300 for roller rockers, etc....
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Well I was looking at summit and edelbrock alum heads are 714 a peace assembled. so around 1400 for heads that's to high for my.But they do have 1.5 rocker arms for 160 for 16 so I could pull that.I just would really like to have about a .520 give or take a few lift cam.I would just like to know if I bought the cam with the kit would I need anything else for the cam to work and also do they make a cam with around .520 lift with around 230 240 duration.

Also would a mechanical or hydraulic cam make a better sound or are they the same.
 
The "Sound" of the cam is not produced by the style of cam, IE; Hyd. Mech or roller, but by the way the events are timed to open and close.

Your not only putting the cart before the horse, but way to much thought into the cam at this point.

You also said that you would like a .520 lift, for whatever reason you want it. Worry not about the lift. The lift should work with the heads abilty to flow air. Since you have no head choice made, forget it.
 
1973dusterkid said:
One more ? about cam

What all would it take to put this in
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K20-244-4/
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That's a big cam for a street driven 360. You'll need at least 10.5 to 1 compression, real good heads, headers, a high rise intake, 750 carb, adjustable rocker arms with custom length pushrods, a 3500 stall converter with a stout built trans., and low gears or as mentioned earlier by others it'll just be a hyped up sounding turd and you'll get outrun by mopeds stoplight to stoplight. Take the advice already given earlier by guys that have been doing this for 20-30 yrs. and have learned what works and what doesn't. Find a good running cheap stock 360 (preferably a roller cam magnum engine) and slap it in along with a rear axle upgrade to an 8-1/4 with 3:21 gears or an 8-3/4 with 3:23 gears and drive and enjoy. You'll be surprised how fast a light duster can be with just a stock 360. And it won't cost a fortune in high octane gas to run like an engine built with the cam you have in that link.
 
Just think of it this way, 300 HP (easily attainable from a street 360 with stock bottom end) in a 3200-lb. car gives a weight-to-power ratio of 10.67:1 which is in C4 Corvette territory. Just sayin, all those "advanced" parts like heads and pistons aren't necessary to make your car fast. They are cool but you'll realize it costs a lot more than you might think to swap engines; the more you modify the more time you'll have to waste making stuff fit which is a PAIN. Swapping in a 360 with a good untouched bottom end and some bolt-ons (intake, good hydraulic cam+springs, headers, carb) with stock heads would work great and be the easiest way to go fast, like many others have said already.
 
1973dusterkid said:
What would be around the heighest lift cam could I put on stock ported heads.

Around 475 lift or less.
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Stock ported heads? Stock heads can take about .450 lift.
Ported heads have nothing to do with the lift the head can take, but, since it is at the machine shop, they will also modify the head to the amount of lift you want. So, if you really wanted to, just spend more money on that area and have it lift to .800 or greater.

Make sense? Of course not. But it's your money. A fool and his money are easily parted.

Perhaps, you should tell us, what it is you want from the car/engine combo instead of chasing your tail around in circles on this thread. Lets say, you want a car to run 13's with acceptable mileage, then this is a target we can advise on.

Also, if there is a certain limit to this build in equipment, like, you must run a 3.21 gear and stock tires or you have a budget of $7k, this will also clue us in on what your parts will be.
 
I I really don't care what the car runs a quarter mile in but I would say high 13s to low 14 quarter mile.I will be running a 8 1/4 rear end with a good highway gear and 15x10 wheels on the back.

And I guess as a budget I really don't have one I am going to get a motor and get it on the motor stand and build it peace by peace but 4k would be a good round number for me.

My big thing is I want a motor that is decent at performance and can get at least 15mpg
I want it to sound mean as hell like it has 600hp.And rev fast hints 10/1 compression.

There is a long stretch of road with s speed limit of 65 about 1 mile from my house I want people to be able to hear me go through the gears from my front porch.(that may backfire with my parents)
 
OK then, a dead stock 360 engine with a Comp big thumper cam and headers with a 4bbl carb (650 cfm will do it) and a Dual plane intake will fit the bill.

10-1 compression not needed and it would be only a waste of gas since high octane will be needed to run this ratio. These times can be done on a 9.0-1 or lower engine.

As far as loud sound goes, use 2-1/2 inch exhaust pipe and Flow Master 2 chambered mufflers. Do not extend the exhaust pipe to the rear bumper, just end it at the muffler.

The Comp big thumper cam will sound real mean. 3.55 gears will allow you the speed and mileage, if you can tune the carb right. 15 mpg's is simple.
 
rumblefish360 said:
OK then, a dead stock 360 engine with a Comp big thumper cam and headers with a 4bbl carb (650 cfm will do it) and a Dual plane intake will fit the bill.

10-1 compression not needed and it would be only a waste of gas since high octane will be needed to run this ratio. These times can be done on a 9.0-1 or lower engine.

As far as loud sound goes, use 2-1/2 inch exhaust pipe and Flow Master 2 chambered mufflers. Do not extend the exhaust pipe to the rear bumper, just end it at the muffler.

The Comp big thumper cam will sound real mean. 3.55 gears will allow you the speed and mileage, if you can tune the carb right. 15 mpg's is simple.
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Also for exhaust I was going to run cut outs

At my school you can not have a loud car so I am going to run a quite exhaust then a cut out to a straight pipe.
 
there are several issues with too big of a cam
- will require new valve springs that are matched (most cams come with a recommended spring spec)... if you are changing the springs you might as well do new valves. usually with lots of miles the exhaust valves especially need to be chucked out. heads need to be hot tanked / valves seated. by the time you do porting also you are at $400 per head or more. so you have iron heads weighing much more than the assembled aluminums which already would have better springs.

- big cam means it needs higher rpms before it's power is unleashed... so that means you need a high stall converter, better oil pump, rockers with better oiling, etc. more money needs to be put in for those things. a mild cam using stock springs with lower rpm range can use the stock converter and you dont need to have hv oil pump, and can use the stock rockers for now.


what you could do is get the intake, headers and carb now, run the 360 for a while then when you get money saved up do an engine upgrade. new cam / oil pump / converter maybe even a stroker kit. have the block blueprinted / balanced etc. this would be the time to get the aluminum heads because you will be changing pistons, and matching the pistons you choose to how many cc's your heads have
you can reuse the intake, maybe not the carb. that's why i said get a used carb and do a nice rebuild on it. it's not as hard as it sounds and it's kinda fun actually. there is a great guide over in the fuel secton. so later, when you upgrade, you can get a larger carb and do the same thing.


so that way you can use the car now without spending a whole ton, and have the stuff ready to swap when the time comes. you could even pick up a 2nd 360 block and use that for your build. so you can drive your car right up until the day the new one is ready :D

p.s. yes the voodoo has an 02 (super mild) 03 04 etc they probably have one that would be perfect for a standard 360 and later you could go higher
 
My dads work has a crashed work truck with a good 5.9 hemi they value if as 0 dollars could I put it in my duster its out of a 08 ram also whats the cubic inch on a 5.9 hemi and do they make engine swap motor mounts for it.also is there a way to take the emissions and computer off the motor.Its fuel injected.
 
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