Top Ten things to do first on your "NEW" 1963 Dodge Dart Covertible

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Hideogumperjr

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So I have been wondering what would be the first things one would suggest to do on you new car.
I started with my going through my brakes, wheel cylinders and shoes, then converting to the dual MC, valve adjustment, plugs and tuning.
What do you suggest the highest priority items to address?
Cheers and Thanks!
 
safety, safety and safety.


make sure the car is safe to drive. go over the brakes, fuel system, and suspension first..
 
safety, safety and safety.


make sure the car is safe to drive. go over the brakes, fuel system, and suspension first..

Yeah, safety first.
Then put some miles on it. I believe the car will tell you what it needs next. Based on your Avatar, it looks like the car may be a little low in the rear, rear springs?
 
Thanks for the replies. I have been driving it a bit, Seattle area in the winter so not too many opportunities, but when we have sunny days it goes around for a bit.
I want safety and reliability, it doesnt have to be completely stock but it will not be for racing, just tooling around for the fun of it. Of course if it goes quickly I dont mind that either!
Thanks for pointing out the low in back Kosmic, and two suggestion Trapster!
 
Sounds like you are mostly there. If you want a daily driver, you might start the fun mod.s and tuning, say electronic ignition and an O2 sensor (wideband best, but $$).

I got a 64 Valiant slant six convert 2 months ago and drove it home, but only by hot-wiring the ignition and alternator. First step is cleaning up the right side of the engine w/ HEI ignition and electric fuel pump, and new motor mount. Then cooling fixes. Next is fixing under-dash wiring hacks. Then steering, suspension, and brakes. I see metal-metal contact in bushings, and the idler arm moves up and down like it shouldn't. It drove quite straight, but would clunk on hard braking. Will definitely go to dual MC. Down the road, I am planning a cheap MPFI and have already collected some parts.
 
I replaced the idler arm already with a Moog from Amazon, I am looking for a quality manual steering box as the car does what we called down South "Bugger Hunts!". I also have a Moog Pitman Arm to replace. And will be going through the front end replacing bushings and ball joints and tie rod ends.

Can anyone vouch for a box from CarSteering wholesale or suggest a reputable rebuilder?

Also it occurred to me, how do I check the rear springs?

Thanks!
 
I took the washers off of my spark plugs and added a pertronix unit to the distributor.

It made a huge difference in reliability and ease of starting.
 
I replaced the idler arm already with a Moog from Amazon, I am looking for a quality manual steering box as the car does what we called down South "Bugger Hunts!". I also have a Moog Pitman Arm to replace. And will be going through the front end replacing bushings and ball joints and tie rod ends.

Can anyone vouch for a box from CarSteering wholesale or suggest a reputable rebuilder?

Also it occurred to me, how do I check the rear springs?

Thanks!

From your picture it looks like your rear is about 1 to 2 inches low.
If you dont like the lowrider look get new springs.
 
if you post a want add your will probably find a few descent manual boxes out there.
other than that you can try flaming river or rock auto.
 
I replaced the idler arm already with a Moog from Amazon, I am looking for a quality manual steering box as the car does what we called down South "Bugger Hunts!". I also have a Moog Pitman Arm to replace. And will be going through the front end replacing bushings and ball joints and tie rod ends.

Can anyone vouch for a box from CarSteering wholesale or suggest a reputable rebuilder?

Also it occurred to me, how do I check the rear springs?

Thanks!


More pics and info of that beaut! (from fellow 63 vert owner):happy1:
 
I am looking for a quality manual steering box as the car does what we called down South "Bugger Hunts!".
Before you condemn your steering box, have you tried adjusting the slack? It is fairly simple. Loosen the jam nut on the top of the sector shaft, while holding the adjuster fixed (flat screwdriver or allen screw, I forget or maybe it varies). Turn the adjuster in (cw) while you turn the steering input shaft back and forth with the other hand until you feel no more play in the gear box, then tighten the jam nut while holding the position. Don't over-tighten the adjustment or it will bind and wear the gearbox. Same for power or manual gear-boxes. My Chevy S-10 manual box developed ~10 deg play within 20K miles from new.

After that, have a helper turn the steering wheel back and forth a bit while you peek under the car. Look for any steering components with play.

Other things that can cause your car to tend to wander on the highway are mis-matched tires, especially radials with bias ply, toe-out, and not enough caster. The later is problematic since these cars were designed for bias ply tires and need more caster for radial tires. When you change the upper bushings, read up on Moog offset bushings to give more caster, and note how to orient them (not per instruction sheet).
 
So I have been wondering what would be the first things one would suggest to do on you new car.
I started with my going through my brakes, wheel cylinders and shoes, then converting to the dual MC, valve adjustment, plugs and tuning.
What do you suggest the highest priority items to address?
Cheers and Thanks!

Well, for me....I would get rid of the 13" wheels/tires (and go 15") as soon as they're worn out, then add an electronic ignition setup from MP and maybe even play with the carb, just to make sure it's running as efficiently as possible, but that's me. When you tuned it, did you change the plug wires? I'd also check the diff oil, trans pan gasket for leaks and grease everything, including trans and throttle linkages. How's the coolant look? I'm also a sucker for headers on slant 6's too, just to make it sound nice, but certainly isn't a necessity!

Oh, and as Trapster mentioned, those rear springs look saggy!
 
Yes!! remove the spark plug washers from these ZFR5N and run these on the drool tube /6 engines.
 

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When i got my 66 cuda i did as follows i replaced the entire steering system [except center link],replaced the front drums with disk [kit came with dual master] rebuilt the rest of the brake system,replaced all the bushings,ball joints,ect. in the suspension,added pertronix electronic ignition conversion,spark plugs,wires,cap,rotor,replaced the belts and all hoses,fuel filter. Replaced the 13 inch stockers [wont fit over disk brake calipers] with 14 inch ralleys there was other stuff done to the engine but i have a 273.
 
Basic get-it-running-reliably stuff is at the top of the list; tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. And here's the procedure for valve adjustment.

Safety is next up. I'd put in proper seat belts. Involved but not impossible in a car like yours. If you're not keeping the original seats, the easiest and best way forward is a set of Chrysler Sebring convertible seats with their built-in 3-point belts. Putting these in requires some electrical work; see here. If keeping the original seats, I recommend these up-to-date, reputable-brand ECE-approved 3-point seat belts (linked vendor is reliable; I've been buying there for a decade; their eBay store is here). More info on belt selection and mounting is at the maker's website. If I needed mounting hardware, I'd buy it again from Wesco (and their page has good illustrated write-ups on how to install belts in pillarless cars like yours here ), but the Securon belts are a much better-designed product than anything Wesco carries.

There are also bench- and bucket-seat 3-point belt setups available from XV Motorsports, but I am hesitant to recommend or use them until I have more than a one-line say-so from the company that their belts actually meet the relevant safety standards; discussion on that matter is here.

Unless the brakes are newly (or almost newly) redone, I'd put them near the top of the list for upgrade. 9" drums at all four corners were adequate for the original lightweight '60-'62 Valiant and Lancer, really not adequate in today's traffic on the heavier '63-up cars. LOTS of options for disc brake upgrades; ask for advice as a separate thread.

Good shocks (at least Edelbrock IAS, preferably Bilstein) and good tires (not from China) go without saying.

Of course, being me, I would put in better headlamps (Cibie H4s if you want good but costly, GE Night Hawk H6024NH if you want decent and cheap but not very long lived) fed by relays, and would also upgrade the car's other exterior lights (see here).

Then after making the car much less inadequate to drive in today's traffic, I'd then turn my attention to more extensive performance upgrades. Perhaps a 2bbl intake and carb (not entirely trivial on a '64 due to throttle linkage configuration, but certainly not impossible, see the parallel 2bbl setup article -- photo documentation of a very well done such conversion is '62 Super Six - a set on Flickr. And a nicer exhaust system with 2¼" headpipe. Stock manifold is fine, Dutra Duals are better.

I lost count, are we up to or past 10?
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First thing I would do is wash and wax it. Youll find every ding and dent in it. Second would be to change every fluid in it. 3rd, complete tune up. 4th do a complete brake job, NEW wheel cylinders, shoes and drums turned. 5th carb rebuild from a kit...Then just drive it...upgrades in this order: electronic distributor--EZ and cheap. Dual circuit brakes-- Just a new MC and some pre cut brake lines. 3rd, disk brakes. The more you do to it, the less time you have to drive and enjoy it. I know....Lord, I know...
 
Thanks for the follow up. I have replaced the drool tube seals with new ones and cut down on expressed oil leaks.
Replaced thermostat, cleaned out the cooling system and antifreeze.
I replaced the plugs with ones recommended here and removed the plug washer. Starts and runs pretty well.
Replaced rear wheels cylinders and shoes, dual MC installed, replaced most brake lines so far, steel and rubber. Working on the front but cant decide whether to waste money on wheel cylinders and shoes, if I am wanting to go with disc conversion.
I tightened the steering box up to cut the slack but it does make turning the wheel more difficult so the desire to replace it with a rebuilt one.
I have bench seat in front with lap belts, buckets would be better.
I have a super six setup to install missing only the accelerator and linkage- off any V8 right?
Waiting on light relay setup, replaced the rear taillights with halogen after cleaning up the reflector in the housing.
Still need to address some leaks of oil and trans fluid, I keep loosing the links to these on here though, lots of reading!
Getting close to the 10 now, and burning them! Still seems a bit anemic though, so I want to go through the ignition, distribution timing etc.
Thanks again.
 
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