Well It Finally Happened

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Wow Mike!,
You really went through the wringer with those heads. Reading that thread made me cringe especially when you know what a good set of heads cost. I'm tempted to run my x heads after reading that, you just don't know what you're getting for $2000.00.
 
superchargeddrt said:
Wow Mike!,
You really went through the wringer with those heads. Reading that thread made me cringe especially when you know what a good set of heads cost. I'm tempted to run my x heads after reading that, you just don't know what you're getting for $2000.00.
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I now love my W2 heads even more!!!!!!!!
 
cpearce said:
I now love my W2 heads even more!!!!!!!!
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Yeah really, ya just don't know how anything new is gonna work out. Mike had way more guts than I have. Playing with thousands of dollars makes me nervous. I am just starting down the engine rebuild road and I am really relying on FABO to guide me through. To say that Mikes thread was eye opening is a complete understatement. Lots of very helpful and knowledgeable people chiming in on that thread.
 
Well with the new engine block at the machine shop we finally decided that it was time to get the old engine out. The plan is to clean the engine bay, weld a lot of the holes shut and repaint. We are going to try to hide as much of the wiring as possible. Enjoy the pics
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Ironmike said:
Hey Glen! You REALLY better search for my thread "missed on this combo", before you buy ANY heads.
I thought we discussed this. Hate to see another guy dissappointed.

p.s. I'll bet Mr Bloomer is not selling heads yet. They halted the project after my test results. Haven't heard if they found the issue yet....
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Hey Mike,
Read the entire "missed on this combo" thread. Not sure which heads I am going with now. Considering just getting the Edlebrock head and having Dumhoff go through them. By the way, how long do they take to check a block out? They've had my block for 2 weeks and they can't even tell me whether to order a 30 over kit or something else. I am not pushing too hard but I am anxious to start ordering parts so I can get the show on the road.

Glenn
 
Alright so I've got to come clean here. When I was removing all of the accessories off of the engine prior to removing it I found something interesting. I noticed when I was removing the fan that the crankshaft pulley was moving around and when I checked it it was loose and that was the noise that I was hearing and it wasn't a rod knock! I am too far along (and too excited) to change my my mind now. Plus the supercharged engine was 30 years old and was getting a little long in the tooth.

I have officially been waiting 3 weeks now for the machine shop to clean, magnaflux and sonic check my new block. I am getting a little impatient as I want to get moving on accumulating parts. I do have the engine bay cleaned and we are getting ready to weld any unnecessary holes shut prior to repainting. We are going to try to hide as much of the wiring as possible.
 
that does seem to be a long time to check out a block...i understand your frustration.

I would go with the edelbrock heads, and have them gone through by a competent shop. they are good once reworked. would you mind posting a picture of your supercharger crank pulley & spacer?
 
mopardude318 said:
that does seem to be a long time to check out a block...i understand your frustration.

I would go with the edelbrock heads, and have them gone through by a competent shop. they are good once reworked. would you mind posting a picture of your supercharger crank pulley & spacer?
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Well they promised to give me an answer by the end of this week. In my view that's either today or tomorrow. Now on the heads are you thinking about the RPMs? I was looking at the Victor's but they are cost prohibitive because I will have $4000.00 into them, Maybe more. So I know the valve guides and seats need to be looked at and if I can afford it (after everything else I have to buy with a $8000.00 budget) maybe some porting.
 
Ok so the machine shop has verified that the block is sound. It has been magnafluxed and sonic checked and all is well for the 0.030 overbore. Now I need help here, I would like my compression to be around 11.0:1. I was thinking about the 63 CC Edelbrock RPM heads and the Scat forged 416 kit (1-48013). I know that the head gasket will effect compression as well so we can adjust the thickness to vary compression ratio a bit. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
superchargeddrt said:
Ok so the machine shop has verified that the block is sound. It has been magnafluxed and sonic checked and all is well for the 0.030 overbore. Now I need help here, I would like my compression to be around 11.0:1. I was thinking about the 63 CC Edelbrock RPM heads and the Scat forged 416 kit (1-48013). I know that the head gasket will effect compression as well so we can adjust the thickness to vary compression ratio a bit. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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No comments?
 
cpearce said:
I vote ATI Superdampr
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x2. ATI dampers are just as good if not better than IW, plus they have more of a stock look.

When I see those billet IW dampers with about 60 bolts holding them together it reminds me of something you might find on a steam boiler, not my favorite!

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superchargeddrt said:
Ok so the machine shop has verified that the block is sound. It has been magnafluxed and sonic checked and all is well for the 0.030 overbore. Now I need help here, I would like my compression to be around 11.0:1. I was thinking about the 63 CC Edelbrock RPM heads and the Scat forged 416 kit (1-48013). I know that the head gasket will effect compression as well so we can adjust the thickness to vary compression ratio a bit. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Looks like you have IC744 pistons in that kit. With a standard LA block deck height, then you will be right about 11.0 for SCR with an .065" thick head gasket. Available from Cometic.

I assume you are aware that the kit number above is unbalanced, and the same kit with the BI suffix is internally balanced.
 
Well a bit of an update. Dropped by the engine shop to talk to my engine builder. The block was there and it was already cleaned, magnafluxed and sonic checked and it's ready to go. I spoke with him about what components I should get to achieve the 11:1 compression ratio I was looking for. After much conversation I decided that I would just allow him to pick the proper components for me. I will get the complete list from him and post it. He is also going to order all the hardware for the heads valve's, locks, springs, retainers and cam. This guy comes highly recommend (every time I asked someone who they used his name came up) so I trust him. I also ordered my Edelbrock heads from Summit Racing. When I ordered them it said they were available for pickup that day but after waiting a few days for delivery I called them and they said that Edelbrock said that the heads weren't even built and they would not ship until November 17th. Arrrrgh, this will surely slow things down. Also (for those of you that we're bumming about this) I have decided that because I have almost all of the wiring out of my engine compartment I will take all of the FiTech fuel injection stuff over to my engine builder and put the engine on the dyno . The only reason he couldn't dyno it is because he didn't have a fuel pump that would go to 100 PSI but as luck would have it, I have a spare fuel pump. I will keep you guys posted.
 
They're Here!!!!! It's like Christmas months early. I plan on getting these to my machinist ASAP. I will check on the progress of the bottom end and give you guys an update.
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Well after speaking with my engine builder I ordered a RPM Air-Gap manifold. He said that the Victor 340 was a great manifold but being as I am primarily running this car on the street and the fact that it is a stroker and I wouldn't be needing to rev it too much above 6000 RPM the Air-Gap (1500 - 6500 RPM) would be a better choice. He also said that my crank and connecting rods we're in but the pistons we're on backorder but should be in within 2 weeks.
 
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Block has been zero decked, bored 30 over and honed. He checked the mains, no align bore needed.Just dropped the Edelbrock heads and Ai-Gap intake off
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